What you need to sew a handkerchief

A handkerchief is a square of fabric with finished edges, and you can make one from any cotton or linen scraps you have. The simplest version uses a single layer of fabric with a folded hem on all four sides — no lining, no batting, no special equipment. You need fabric (at least 12 by 12 inches), thread that matches or complements the fabric, a needle, scissors, pins, and an iron. A sewing machine speeds up the work but is not required; hand sewing takes longer but produces the same result.

The finished handkerchief will be roughly 10 by 10 inches after you fold and stitch the hems. If you want a larger or smaller one, add or subtract an inch from each side of your starting fabric. Lightweight cotton, quilting cotton, and linen all work well. Avoid stretchy fabrics like jersey or knits unless you are comfortable working with them.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut your fabric into a square at least 12 by 12 inches, then trim the edges straight with scissors or a rotary cutter.
  • Fold each edge inward by half an inch, press it flat with an iron, then fold it inward again by another half inch and press again to create a finished edge.
  • Stitch the folded hem down by hand or machine, sewing close to the inner fold so the stitches do not show on the front.
  • Corners will overlap slightly when you fold them; trim the excess fabric at each corner before the final fold to reduce bulk.

Cutting and preparing the fabric

Start with a piece of fabric at least 12 by 12 inches. If your scrap is larger, measure and mark a 12-inch square with a ruler and fabric pencil or chalk, then cut along the lines with sharp scissors or a rotary cutter. The edges do not have to be perfect at this stage — you will fold them under — but they should be reasonably straight.

Once cut, lay the square flat on your ironing board. You are about to fold the edges, and a pressed fabric is easier to work with and produces neater hems. If the fabric is wrinkled, press it now with a warm iron. If it is already flat, you can move on to the hem.

Folding and pressing the first hem

Fold one edge of the fabric inward by half an inch. Use your ruler or the edge of a cutting mat to keep the fold straight, or straightforward eyeball it — half an inch is forgiving. Crease the fold with your fingers, then press it flat with a warm iron. The crease should be sharp enough that the fold stays in place when you let go.

Repeat this step on all four sides. Fold each edge inward by half an inch and press. At the corners, the fabric will overlap slightly — this is normal and you will trim it in the next step. Once all four edges are folded and pressed, you have created the first layer of the hem.

Trimming the corners

At each corner, two layers of folded fabric now overlap. This bulk will make the corner lumpy and hard to stitch. Unfold the corner slightly, trim away the excess fabric at a 45-degree angle, then refold. The goal is to remove enough fabric so the corner lies flat without a thick ridge.

A straightforward way to do this: unfold both edges at one corner so you can see where they overlap. Cut diagonally across the overlapped area, about a quarter inch away from where the two folds meet. Refold the edges. The corner should now fold flat without excess fabric bunching up. Repeat at all four corners.

Folding and pressing the second hem

Now fold each edge inward again by another half inch. This second fold will cover the raw edge of the fabric and create a finished hem. Press each fold flat with the iron. The raw edge is now hidden inside the fold, and the handkerchief looks neat on both sides.

At the corners, the folds will overlap again, but because you trimmed the excess fabric, the overlap is much smaller. The corner should fold flat without puckering. If a corner still feels too thick, unfold it slightly and trim a bit more fabric.

Stitching the hem by hand

Thread a needle with thread that matches your fabric or a contrasting color if you like the look. Knot the end of the thread. Starting at one corner, push the needle through the fold from the inside so the knot stays hidden. Stitch along the inner fold of the hem, taking small stitches about a quarter inch apart. The stitches should go through all layers of fabric but should not show on the front of the handkerchief.

Work your way around all four sides. At each corner, take an extra stitch or two to reinforce the point. When you reach the starting corner, overlap your stitches slightly, then push the needle to the inside and tie off the thread. Trim the excess thread.

Stitching the hem by machine

If you are using a sewing machine, set it to a straight stitch with a thread color that matches your fabric. Fold the hem as described above, then position the handkerchief under the presser foot so the needle will stitch close to the inner fold. Sew slowly and keep the fabric straight as you feed it through. Backstitch at the start and end to lock the thread.

Machine stitching is faster than hand stitching and produces a very even line. The stitches will be more visible than hand stitches, but they are also more durable. If you are new to machine sewing, practice on a scrap first to get a feel for the speed and tension.

Finishing and pressing the handkerchief

Once all four sides are stitched, press the entire handkerchief with a warm iron. The heat sets the stitches and removes any wrinkles from folding and handling. Press from both sides to make sure the hems lie flat.

Your handkerchief is now complete. It can be used as is, or you can add a monogram, embroidery, or decorative stitching if you wish. Store it flat in a drawer or fold it into quarters and tuck it into a pocket.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make a handkerchief from a knit fabric like jersey?

Knits are stretchy and will curl at the edges, making them harder to hem neatly. If you want to try, use a ballpoint needle and stretch the fabric gently as you sew to prevent puckering. A serger or zigzag stitch helps prevent curling, but a straightforward straight stitch on a knit will not produce a polished result.

What size should a handkerchief be?

A standard handkerchief is about 10 by 10 inches when finished. Larger ones (12 by 12 inches finished) are easier to hold and more useful. Smaller ones (8 by 8 inches finished) are more portable. Start with 12 by 12 inches of fabric to end up with a 10 by 10 inch handkerchief after the hems are folded.

Do I have to press the hems with an iron?

Pressing makes the work much neater and faster, but it is not strictly required. You can fold the hems and stitch them without pressing, though the folds may shift slightly as you sew and the finished handkerchief may look less crisp. An iron takes a few minutes and makes a real difference.

What thread should I use?

Use all-purpose polyester or cotton thread in a color that matches your fabric or contrasts intentionally. The thread does not have to be expensive or special — basic thread from any fabric store works fine. If you are hand sewing, make sure the thread is not too thick or it will be hard to push through the needle.