The basic method for attaching a hood to a garment

A hood is sewn to a garment by joining the neckline of the hood to the neckline of the body piece, then securing the seam with a binding or facing. The hood itself is made from two pieces of fabric sewn together at the center back seam, then the outer edges are bound or faced before attachment. The whole process takes about an hour for a straightforward hood on a basic sweatshirt or jacket.

The key is matching the notches and anchor points on the hood to the corresponding points on the garment neckline — usually the center front, center back, and shoulder seams. If those points line up, the hood will sit evenly. Most hoods are sewn with the right sides of the fabric facing each other, then turned right-side-out after the binding is applied.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut two hood pieces from your pattern, sew them together at the center back seam, and press the seam open before attaching to the garment.
  • Bind or face the outer edges of the hood (the front opening) before you attach it to the neckline, so the raw edges are finished.
  • Pin the hood to the garment neckline by matching notches first — usually center front, center back, and shoulder seams — then ease the fabric between those points.
  • Sew the hood to the neckline with a 5/8-inch seam allowance, then bind the seam with bias tape or a facing strip to finish the inside.

Cutting and preparing the two hood pieces

Lay out your pattern pieces on the fabric according to the pattern instructions, paying attention to grain line and any directional markings. Cut two identical hood pieces. Most patterns will have a fold line marked on one edge — that is usually the center back of the hood, and you may cut both pieces from a single folded layer of fabric to may support they match exactly.

Once cut, mark any notches or dots from the pattern onto both pieces using a fabric pen or tailor's chalk. These notches are your anchor points when you attach the hood to the garment. They tell you where the hood's center front, center back, and shoulders should line up with the garment's neckline.

Sewing the center back seam and pressing

Place the two hood pieces with right sides together — the pretty sides facing each other — and align the center back edges. Pin along the center back seam from the neckline edge to the top of the hood. Sew with a 5/8-inch seam allowance, using a straight stitch and matching thread.

Once sewn, remove the pins and press the seam open using a pressing ham or a rolled towel under the seam to avoid creasing the hood shape. Pressing the seam open now makes it easier to bind the outer edges later and gives a flatter, more professional finish. If your pattern calls for topstitching the center back seam, do that now before moving to the next step.

Binding or facing the outer edges of the hood opening

The outer edges of the hood — the front opening that frames the face — need to be finished before the hood is attached to the garment. You can do this with bias tape or with a facing strip cut from your pattern. Bias tape is faster and works well for knit fabrics; a facing gives a more structured look on woven fabrics.

Using bias tape: Cut or purchase bias tape wide enough to wrap around the edge with a 1/4-inch seam allowance on each side. Pin the tape to the right side of the hood opening, starting at one end of the center back seam. Sew the tape down with a 1/4-inch seam, then fold the tape to the wrong side and hand-stitch or machine-stitch it down. Press flat when finished.

Using a facing: Cut a facing strip from your pattern or measure and cut a strip 2 to 3 inches wide and as long as the hood opening. Pin the facing to the right side of the hood opening, sew with a 5/8-inch seam allowance, trim the seam to 1/4 inch, and press the facing to the wrong side. Understitch or topstitch to hold the facing in place.

Pinning the hood to the garment neckline

Before you sew, pin the hood to the garment to check the fit and make sure the notches line up. Start by matching the center back notch of the hood to the center back of the garment neckline. Then match the center front notches. Finally, match the shoulder seam notches on both sides.

Once those four anchor points are pinned, ease the remaining fabric between them by placing pins every inch or so. The hood should sit smoothly without puckers or tight spots. If the hood pulls or bunches, remove the pins and check that your anchor points are truly aligned. Uneven tension at the anchor points is the most common reason a hood sits crooked.

Pin with the hood on top so you can see the notches and any gathering as you work. Use plenty of pins — at least one every inch — because the curved neckline and the bias of the hood fabric can shift during sewing.

Sewing the hood to the neckline and finishing the seam

Sew the hood to the garment with a 5/8-inch seam allowance, using a straight stitch and thread that matches the garment. Sew slowly around the curve, removing pins as you approach them. The presser foot should ride smoothly without bunching or puckering the fabric.

Once the hood is sewn, trim the seam allowance to 1/4 inch and finish the raw edges with a binding strip or bias tape. This binding wraps around the seam and is sewn or hand-stitched to the inside of the garment, covering the raw edges and preventing fraying. Press the finished seam flat, and the hood is complete.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

The most common mistake is sewing the hood to the neckline without binding the outer edges first. This leaves raw edges on the inside of the hood that will fray and look unfinished. Always bind or face the hood opening before attaching it to the garment.

Another frequent error is not matching the notches correctly. If the center back notch of the hood is not aligned with the center back of the garment, the hood will twist to one side. Take time to pin and check the anchor points before sewing, and do not assume the notches are in the right place — verify them against your pattern.

Puckering along the neckline seam usually means the hood was eased unevenly or the pins were too far apart. Use plenty of pins and sew slowly, especially around tight curves. If puckering happens, you can often fix it by pressing with steam and a pressing ham, or by carefully removing and re-sewing the seam.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I sew the hood with right sides together or wrong sides together?

Right sides together. Place the pretty sides of the fabric facing each other, sew the seam, and then turn the hood right-side-out so the seam is hidden on the inside. This is the standard method for most garments.

What if my hood pattern does not have notches marked?

Mark your own. Measure the neckline of the garment and divide it into quarters. Mark the center front, center back, and both shoulder seams with a fabric pen or tailor's chalk. Do the same on the hood. These four points are your anchor pins when you attach the hood.

Can I sew a hood onto a garment that is already finished?

Yes, but it is easier if the neckline is not yet bound. If the neckline is already finished with binding or a facing, you will need to remove that binding, sew the hood on, and then re-bind the seam. It is faster to attach the hood before finishing the neckline.

How much seam allowance should I use when sewing the hood to the neckline?

Use 5/8 inch, which is the standard seam allowance for most garment patterns. After sewing, trim the seam to 1/4 inch before binding it. This reduces bulk and makes the binding easier to explore.

What is the difference between a hood and a collar?

A hood covers the head and shoulders, while a collar sits around the neck only. Hoods are made from two pieces sewn at the center back, and the outer edges are bound before attachment. Collars are often cut as a single piece or a facing and are attached differently.