Attach the hood to your cape by pinning it to the neckline, then sewing it with a backstitch or machine stitch

A hood sewn onto a cape sits centered at the back neckline, with the face opening facing forward. The process takes about 30 to 45 minutes for a hand-sewn hood and 15 to 20 minutes by machine. You will need the cape already finished (hem complete, edges bound or finished), the hood already constructed and turned right-side out, a needle or sewing machine, thread that matches your fabric, pins, and scissors. The most common mistake is sewing the hood on inside-out or off-center, which shows up when ready when you try the cape on.

The key to a centered hood is pinning the back seams together first, then working outward toward the shoulders. This prevents the hood from twisting as you sew and ensures the face opening frames your face evenly. Once you understand the basic pinning and stitching, you can adjust the technique for hoods that are larger or smaller than your cape neckline.

Key Takeaways

  • Pin the hood to the cape neckline with the right sides of the fabric facing each other, centering the back seam of the hood at the center back of the cape.
  • Sew the hood to the cape using a backstitch by hand or a straight stitch by machine, staying 1/2 inch from the edge.
  • Trim the seam allowance to 1/4 inch after sewing, then press it flat toward the hood to reduce bulk.
  • Bind the raw seam edge with bias tape or a facing to finish the inside of the neckline and prevent fraying.
  • Try on the cape before binding to check that the hood sits centered and the face opening is the right size.

Prepare the cape and hood before pinning

Lay the cape flat on your work surface with the wrong side facing up. The neckline should be clearly visible and smooth—if your cape has a collar or binding already attached, the hood will sew on top of it. Measure the neckline opening from shoulder seam to shoulder seam across the back; this tells you how much of the hood opening will actually attach to the cape.

Turn the hood inside-out (so the wrong sides of the fabric face outward). This is the position it needs to be in when you pin it to the cape. Check that both shoulder seams of the hood are intact and that the back seam runs straight up the center. If the hood is not yet sewn closed at the sides, sew those seams now and turn it right-side out, then turn it back inside-out for pinning. A hood that is not fully constructed will shift and bunch unevenly as you attach it.

Pin the hood centered on the neckline

Find the center back of the cape neckline by folding the cape in half lengthwise and marking that point with a pin. Find the center back of the hood by locating where the back seam meets the neckline edge. Pin these two points together first, with the hood inside-out and the cape wrong-side up. The right sides of both fabrics should face each other.

Pin from the center back outward toward each shoulder, spacing pins about 2 inches apart. The hood's shoulder seams should land near (but not necessarily exactly at) the cape's shoulder seams. If the hood opening is larger than the cape neckline, the extra fabric will bunch slightly at the shoulders—this is normal and will be eased in as you sew. If the hood opening is much smaller than the neckline, you may need to adjust your hood pattern or cape size before proceeding.

Sew the hood to the cape with a backstitch or machine stitch

By hand: Thread your needle and knot the end. Starting at one shoulder seam, push the needle through both layers of fabric from the inside, bringing it up 1/2 inch from the edge. Use a backstitch: push the needle back through both layers 1/4 inch behind where it came out, then bring it forward 1/4 inch ahead. Repeat this motion all the way around the neckline to the other shoulder. Keep your stitches small and even—about 1/8 inch per stitch—so the seam is strong.

By machine: Set your machine to a straight stitch with medium tension and a stitch length of 2.0 to 2.5 mm. Sew 1/2 inch from the edge, starting at one shoulder and sewing all the way around to the other shoulder. Backstitch at the start and end to lock the thread. Sew slowly around curves to keep the line straight and avoid puckering. Remove pins as you approach them so they do not get caught in the presser foot.

Trim and press the seam

Once the hood is sewn all the way around, turn the cape right-side out and try it on to check that the hood sits centered and the face opening feels right. If it looks off-center or too tight, you can carefully cut the stitches and re-pin before sewing again. If it looks good, trim the seam allowance down to 1/4 inch using sharp scissors, cutting away the extra fabric close to your stitching line.

Press the seam flat with an iron set to the temperature appropriate for your fabric. Press from the inside of the cape, pushing the seam allowance toward the hood. This reduces bulk and helps the hood sit smoothly against the neckline. Let the fabric cool before moving it, as pressing while warm can cause the seam to shift out of place.

Finish the seam edge with bias tape or facing

The raw edge of the seam allowance is now visible on the inside of the cape. Bind it with bias tape (a strip of fabric cut on the bias and folded in half) or a facing (a strip of fabric sewn to the edge and folded to the inside). Bias tape is faster: unfold one side of the tape, pin it to the raw seam edge, sew it down, then fold it to the inside and hand-stitch it closed. A facing takes longer but looks more professional and creates a smoother finish.

If you choose bias tape, use 1/2-inch-wide tape in a color that matches your cape or hood. Pin it to the raw seam edge with the tape's fold facing outward, sew it down 1/4 inch from the edge, then fold the tape to the inside and slip-stitch it by hand. Press as you go to keep the binding flat and prevent it from rolling out of place.

Check the hood fit and make adjustments

Put the cape on and look in a mirror. The hood should sit centered at the back of your head, with the face opening framing your face evenly on both sides. If the hood pulls to one side, the back seam was not centered when you pinned it—you can carefully unpick the stitches and re-sew. If the face opening is too tight, the hood may be too small for the cape, and you may need to add fabric to the sides or remake the hood larger.

If the hood is too loose or slides around, the neckline seam may have stretched during sewing. You can take a small tuck at the center back (inside the hood, where it will not show) to tighten it, or you can carefully unpick and re-sew with slightly less seam allowance. These adjustments are much easier to make before you bind the seam edge, so try the cape on before finishing the inside.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I sew a hood onto a cape that already has a collar?

Yes, but the hood will sit on top of the collar. Pin and sew the hood to the neckline as usual, treating the collar edge as part of the neckline. The result will be bulkier at the back of the neck, so trim the seam allowance carefully and use a thin bias tape to finish it.

What if my hood is too big for the cape neckline?

The extra fabric will gather at the shoulders as you sew. This is fine and looks intentional. If the bunching is too much, you can ease it in by sewing slowly and letting the fabric fold slightly, or you can make small tucks at the shoulder seams before sewing the hood on.

Should I use a sewing machine or hand-sew the hood on?

A machine is faster and creates a stronger, more even seam. Hand-sewing gives you more control on curves and is quieter, but takes longer. Either method works; choose based on your comfort level and how much time you have.

How do I keep the hood from twisting when I sew it on?

Pin it thoroughly before you start—at least every 2 inches—and check that the back seam is centered and straight. Sew slowly and remove pins as you approach them. If the hood does twist, stop, unpin that section, straighten it, and re-pin before continuing.

Can I add a drawstring to the hood after sewing it on?

Yes. Once the hood is attached and the seam is finished, you can sew a casing (a folded strip of fabric) around the face opening and thread a drawstring through it. This is easier to do after the hood is on the cape because you can see how it fits and adjust the casing placement accordingly.