How to Sew a Hood Onto a Cape

Attach the hood to the cape neckline with a straightforward seam

A hood sewn onto a cape sits at the neckline and is secured with a straight seam that runs around the neck opening. The hood itself is usually a two-piece or four-piece construction (front and back, or two front pieces and two back pieces) that you sew together first, then attach to the cape as a single unit. The seam that holds the hood to the cape is the same basic stitch you would use to attach a collar or binding—a 1/2-inch seam allowance is standard, and you sew with the right sides of the fabric facing each other so the seam ends up hidden inside.

The order matters: finish the hood completely before you attach it to the cape. This means sewing the hood pieces together, turning it right-side out, and pressing it flat. Only then do you pin it to the cape neckline and sew it down. If you try to attach an unfinished hood, you will have raw seams visible on the inside and a much harder time getting the fit to look clean.

Key Takeaways

Sew your hood pieces together and turn them right-side out before attaching the hood to the cape.
Pin the hood to the cape neckline with right sides facing each other, matching the center back seams, and sew with a 1/2-inch seam allowance.
Use a walking foot or reduce presser foot pressure if your cape fabric is slippery or thick, so both layers feed evenly under the needle.
Finish the seam allowance by serging, binding, or zigzagging to prevent fraying and give the inside a polished look.
Try the cape on before you cut thread to check that the hood sits centered and the neckline feels comfortable.

Prepare the hood as a finished unit

Cut out all hood pieces according to your pattern. If your hood is two pieces (one front, one back), lay them right sides together and sew the side seams. If it is four pieces (two front, two back), sew the two front pieces together along the center front, then sew the two back pieces together along the center back, then sew the front unit to the back unit along the side seams. Press all seams open or to one side, depending on your pattern instructions.

Turn the hood right-side out through the bottom opening (the edge that will attach to the cape). Press it flat with an iron, paying special attention to the seams so they lie smooth. If your hood has a facing or lining, you may need to hand-stitch the opening closed before attaching it to the cape, or you may leave it open and let the cape seam hold it in place—check your pattern. The hood should now be a finished, three-dimensional shape ready to pin to the neckline.

Pin the hood to the cape neckline

Lay the cape flat on your work surface with the right side facing up. Place the hood on top of it, also right side up, so you can see how it sits. The bottom raw edge of the hood (the opening) should align with the neckline edge of the cape. Find the center back of both the hood and the cape—usually marked by a notch or fold—and pin them together first. This anchor point keeps the hood from shifting as you pin the rest.

Pin around the entire neckline, spacing pins about 2 to 3 inches apart. As you pin, check that the hood is centered and sits evenly on both sides. If the hood neckline is slightly larger than the cape neckline, ease the extra fabric in gently by taking slightly smaller stitches or gathering the hood edge a little. If the cape neckline is larger, you may need to take deeper seams on the cape side. Once all pins are in place, flip the cape over and look at the back to make sure the hood is still centered and the pins are perpendicular to the seam line.

Sew the hood to the cape with a straight seam

Set your machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.0 to 2.5 mm. Use a 1/2-inch seam allowance—this is the standard for attaching hoods and collars. Start at one side seam of the hood (where the hood side seam meets the cape neckline) and sew slowly around the entire neckline, removing pins as you approach them. Backstitch at the start and end to lock the seam.

If your cape fabric is slippery (like satin or fleece) or very thick (like wool or fleece), use a walking foot to help feed both layers evenly. A walking foot has teeth that grip the top layer while the feed dogs grip the bottom, preventing the hood from shifting ahead of the cape. If you do not have a walking foot, reduce the presser foot pressure slightly so the fabric moves smoothly without bunching. Sew slowly and do not pull the fabric—let the machine do the work.

Once you have sewn all the way around and returned to your starting point, tie off the thread and press the seam. Press from the cape side first, then flip and press from the hood side, so the seam lies flat and smooth.

Finish the seam allowance to prevent fraying

The raw edges of the seam allowance (the fabric between the stitching line and the cut edge) will fray over time if left unfinished. You have three main options: serge, bind, or zigzag. A serger (also called an overlock machine) trims the seam allowance and wraps thread around the edge in one pass—this is the fastest and neatest option if you have access to one. Set the serger to a 3-thread or 4-thread overlock stitch and run the seam allowance through.

If you do not have a serger, use a zigzag stitch on your regular machine. Set the stitch width to 2.5 to 3.0 mm and length to 2.0 mm, and sew along the raw edge of the seam allowance so the thread wraps around the edge. This prevents fraying and is nearly as durable as serging. Alternatively, you can bind the seam allowance with bias tape or a strip of fabric, which gives a more finished, couture look—fold the tape around the raw edge and stitch it down by hand or machine.

Try on the cape and adjust the fit

Before you cut the thread and call the hood complete, put the cape on and check how the hood sits. The neckline seam should feel comfortable—not tight, not loose—and the hood should be centered so it frames the face evenly. If the hood pulls to one side or the neckline feels tight, you may need to let out the seam slightly or add a small gusset (a triangular piece of fabric) at the side seams to give more room.

If the hood is too loose or slides around, you can take in the seam by 1/4 inch or so, but this is easier to fix before you finish the seam allowance. Once the seam is serged or bound, ripping it out and re-sewing is tedious. Try the cape on, make any adjustments while the seam is still raw, and only then finish the edges. Check that the hood does not restrict your movement or vision, and that the cape itself hangs straight without the hood pulling it off-center.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if the hood neckline is much bigger than the cape neckline?

Ease the extra fabric in by taking slightly smaller stitches (1.5 to 1.8 mm) on the hood side as you sew, or gently gather the hood edge with a gathering stitch before you attach it. You can also add a small dart or pleat at the center back of the hood to take up extra fullness. Test the fit before finishing the seam allowance.

Can I attach a hood to a cape that already has a collar or binding?

Yes, but you will need to remove the existing collar or binding first. Carefully cut the stitches and pull it away, then press the neckline flat. Once the hood is attached, you can add a new binding over the seam if you want a finished look, or leave it as is if the inside will not be visible.

What stitch should I use if my machine does not have a walking foot?

A regular straight stitch works fine on most fabrics. If the fabric is slippery, reduce the presser foot pressure by one or two settings, sew slowly, and do not pull the fabric. You can also try a slight zigzag (width 0.5 to 1.0 mm) instead of a straight stitch—it gives a little more grip without being visible on the outside.

Do I need to line the hood?

Lining is optional and depends on the cape fabric and your preference. A lining hides the seams and makes the hood feel more polished, but it adds bulk and is extra work. If your cape is already lined, lining the hood too will look more finished. If the cape is unlined, an unlined hood is fine.

How do I attach a drawstring or ties to the hood?

Sew the drawstring or ties into the side seams of the hood before you attach the hood to the cape. Fold the tie in half, insert the fold into the side seam between the two hood pieces, and sew it in place. When you turn the hood right-side out, the tie will be caught in the seam and hang down from the side. This is much easier than trying to attach ties after the hood is already sewn to the cape.

This guide is for general information only and is not medical, financial, legal, or other professional advice. For decisions specific to your situation, consult a qualified professional. See our Editorial Policy.