A hooded cape is two rectangles and a hood sewn together
A basic hooded cape is built from a rectangular body piece, a hood, and a front closure. You cut two rectangles of fabric (one for the outer layer, one for the lining), sew them together along three sides, attach a hood to the neckline, add binding or bias tape to finish the edges, and sew on a button or hook-and-eye closure at the front. The whole project takes four to six hours for a beginner and requires only a sewing machine, thread, scissors, and measuring tape.
The cape hangs from the shoulders and drapes down the back and sides. Because there are no armholes, it fits most body sizes without alterations. A child's cape uses about 1.5 yards of fabric; an adult cape uses 2 to 2.5 yards depending on desired length.
Key Takeaways
- Cut two identical rectangles (one outer fabric, one lining) and sew them right sides together, leaving a gap at the neckline for turning and attaching the hood.
- The hood is a rectangle folded in half and sewn to the neckline opening before the cape body is fully closed.
- Bias tape or binding finishes the front edges and neckline seams so they do not fray or curl.
- A button, snap, or hook-and-eye closure at the front neck holds the cape closed without a tie.
- Pressing seams flat with an iron after each step keeps the cape looking professional and makes the next step easier.
Measure and cut the fabric pieces
Decide how long you want the cape to hang. Measure from the base of the neck down the back to where you want it to end—typically mid-thigh for a child, knee or mid-calf for an adult. Add 1 inch for seam allowance at the neckline. That is your cape length.
For width, measure across the shoulders and add 12 to 16 inches so the cape drapes on both sides. A typical adult cape is 24 to 28 inches wide and 36 to 42 inches long. A child's cape is usually 18 to 22 inches wide and 24 to 30 inches long.
Cut two identical rectangles from your outer fabric and two from your lining fabric using these measurements. Use a rotary cutter and ruler for straight edges, or mark the lines with chalk and cut with scissors. Keep the pieces stacked and aligned so both layers are the same size.
Sew the outer and lining layers together
Place one outer fabric rectangle and one lining rectangle with right sides facing each other (the pretty sides touching). Pin around all four edges. Sew along three sides—the two long sides and the bottom—using a 1/2-inch seam allowance. Leave the top (neckline) edge completely open. Backstitch at the start and end of each seam to lock the thread.
Trim the seam allowance at the corners to 1/4 inch to reduce bulk. Turn the cape right side out through the neckline opening by reaching in and pulling the fabric through. Press flat with an iron, paying special attention to the seams so they lie smooth and even.
Repeat this process with the second outer rectangle and second lining rectangle so you have two identical cape pieces. You now have two complete cape units, each with an outer layer and a lining layer.
Make and attach the hood
Cut a rectangle for the hood. A typical hood is 14 to 16 inches wide and 10 to 12 inches tall. Cut two identical rectangles—one from outer fabric and one from lining—using these measurements.
Place the two hood rectangles with right sides together and sew along three sides: the two long sides and one short side (the back of the hood). Leave the front edge open. Trim corners, turn right side out, and press flat.
Position the hood at the neckline opening of one cape piece, with the hood's outer fabric facing the cape's outer fabric. The open front edge of the hood should align with the neckline opening. Pin the hood in place all the way around the neckline. Sew the hood to the neckline using a 1/2-inch seam allowance.
Now place the second cape piece on top, with its lining side facing the hood's lining side. Pin all three layers together at the neckline. Sew through all layers around the entire neckline to sandwich the hood seam between the two cape layers. This creates a finished neckline with no raw edges showing.
Finish the edges with bias tape
Bias tape is a thin strip of fabric cut on the diagonal grain so it stretches and curves smoothly around edges. You can buy pre-made bias tape in most fabric stores, or cut and fold your own from leftover fabric. For a cape, you need enough bias tape to go around both front edges and the bottom edge—roughly 3 to 4 yards for an adult cape.
Open the bias tape and pin it along the front edge of the cape, starting at the bottom and working up toward the hood. The raw edge of the cape should sit in the fold of the bias tape. Sew the bias tape to the cape using a 1/4-inch seam allowance, following the crease in the tape as your guide.
Fold the bias tape to the back side of the cape and pin it down. Sew it in place from the back using a stitch that catches the fold of the tape. This is called a blind stitch or ladder stitch and keeps the stitching invisible from the front. Repeat this process along the other front edge and the bottom edge of the cape.
Add a closure at the front neck
A cape needs something to hold it closed at the front. The most common options are a button and buttonhole, a snap, or a hook-and-eye closure. Snaps and hook-and-eye closures are faster and do not require buttonhole stitching.
For a snap closure, mark where you want it on the front edges of the cape—usually 1 to 2 inches below the hood. Sew the socket (the hollow half) to one side and the stud (the raised half) to the other side, following the package instructions. Use a needle and thread to sew through the holes in the snap, backstitching several times for strength.
For a hook-and-eye closure, sew the hook to one front edge and the eye to the other, positioning them so they align when the cape is closed. For a button closure, mark the buttonhole placement on one front edge, sew the buttonhole using your machine's buttonhole stitch, and sew a button to the opposite front edge.
Press and wear your cape
Once all seams are sewn and all closures are attached, press the entire cape with an iron on a medium setting. Pay special attention to the neckline, front edges, and hood seams. Pressing sets the stitches and gives the cape a polished, finished look.
Try the cape on and check that it hangs evenly and the closure holds it in place. If the hood feels too tight or too loose around the face, you can adjust the fit by taking in or letting out the seams at the sides of the hood—unpick the stitches, move the seam line, and sew again.
Frequently Asked Questions
What fabric works best for a hooded cape?
Cotton, fleece, and wool are all good choices. Cotton is straightforward to work with and breathes well. Fleece is warm and does not fray, so you can skip the bias tape if you prefer. Wool is durable and drapes beautifully but requires more careful pressing. Avoid very stretchy fabrics like spandex, which will distort the cape's shape.
Do I need a pattern to sew a cape?
No. Because a cape is made from rectangles, you can draft your own pattern by measuring and marking the dimensions directly on paper or cardboard. Many fabric stores sell cape patterns if you prefer step-by-step guidance, but they are not necessary for a basic design.
Can I make a cape without a lining?
Yes, but a lining makes the cape look more finished and protects the seams from wear. If you skip the lining, finish the raw edges with bias tape or a zigzag stitch on your machine to prevent fraying. A lined cape lasts longer and feels more substantial when worn.
How do I make the hood fit better around the face?
If the hood is too loose, take in the side seams by 1/2 inch on each side. If it is too tight, let out the seams by 1/2 inch. Unpick the stitches carefully, move the seam line, and sew again. Test the fit before cutting away the extra fabric.
What if I want to add a lining to just the hood?
You can make the hood from two layers (outer and lining) and leave the cape body as a single layer. Attach the lined hood to the cape neckline, then finish the front edges and bottom with bias tape. This saves fabric and is faster than lining the entire cape.