What You Need to Make a Hooded Cloak

A hooded cloak is a rectangle of fabric with a hood sewn to one edge and a closure at the front. You do not need a commercial pattern—the basic shape is straightforward enough to draft yourself. The cloak works best in medium-weight fabric that drapes well: cotton canvas, linen blends, wool suiting, or fleece. Avoid stiff fabrics like denim or thin fabrics like cotton lawn, which will not hang properly.

For a cloak that reaches your knees, you will need roughly 1.5 to 2 yards of 45-inch-wide fabric, depending on your shoulder width. Measure from your shoulder to where you want the hem to fall, then add 2 inches for seam allowance. The width should be at least 45 inches—wider if your fabric is narrower or you want a fuller drape. You will also need thread that matches your fabric, a needle, scissors, pins, and a measuring tape. A sewing machine makes the work much faster, but hand sewing works if you have the time.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut a rectangle for the cloak body and a separate rectangle for the hood, then sew the hood to the neckline with the right sides facing each other.
  • Fold the hood in half lengthwise and sew the back seam, then turn it right-side out and topstitch the neckline seam for a clean finish.
  • Hem all four edges of the cloak body with a 1-inch fold, pressing and pinning before you sew to keep the hem even.
  • Attach a button and loop, or use ties, at the front neckline so the cloak stays closed when you wear it.
  • Test the fit by trying it on before you hem—if the hood pulls or the length feels wrong, you can adjust before the final stitches.

Cutting Your Cloak Pieces

Lay your fabric on a flat surface and measure out the cloak body. For a knee-length cloak, measure down from your shoulder to just below your knee and add 2 inches. This is your length. For width, use the full width of your fabric if it is at least 45 inches—if it is narrower, you may need to sew two pieces together along the short ends first. Mark these measurements with chalk or a fabric pen, then cut straight lines with sharp scissors. Do not cut on the bias unless you want the cloak to stretch and drape differently.

Next, cut the hood. The hood is a rectangle roughly 18 to 20 inches wide and 12 to 14 inches tall—these measurements work for most adults, but you can adjust if your head is very large or small. Measure around your head at the widest point (usually across your forehead and the back of your skull), then subtract 2 inches for seam allowance. That is your hood width. The height should be roughly two-thirds of that width so the hood sits comfortably without bunching. Mark and cut this rectangle from your fabric.

Sewing the Hood to the Neckline

The hood attaches to the top edge of the cloak body. First, fold the hood rectangle in half lengthwise with the right sides facing each other—the right side is the side you want to show on the finished cloak. Pin along the two short ends (the sides), then sew them together with a 1/2-inch seam allowance. Use a straight stitch on your machine or a running stitch by hand. Backstitch at the beginning and end to lock the thread. Do not sew the long edges yet—you will do that after you attach the hood to the cloak.

Turn the hood right-side out by pulling it through the opening at the top. Press the seams flat with an iron on medium heat. Now pin the open edge of the hood to the top edge of the cloak body, with right sides facing each other. The hood opening should match the width of the cloak—if your hood is narrower, center it and pin the extra cloak fabric evenly on both sides. Sew along this seam with a 1/2-inch allowance, then remove the pins.

Finishing the Hood Seams

Turn the cloak right-side out by pulling the hood through. The hood should now be attached to the neckline and facing outward. Press the neckline seam flat. To make the seam look neat and prevent fraying, topstitch along the neckline—sew a line of stitching about 1/4 inch away from the seam, on the cloak side. This holds the seam allowance in place and creates a professional finish.

Now sew the long edges of the hood closed. With the hood still right-side out, fold it in half lengthwise again and pin the two long edges together. Sew from the neckline up to the point of the hood, using a 1/2-inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the start and end. This seam runs down the center back of the hood. Press it flat, then topstitch 1/4 inch away from the seam for a finished look.

Hemming the Cloak Body

The cloak body needs a hem on all four edges—the two long sides and the bottom. Start with one long side. Fold the edge toward the wrong side (the inside) by 1 inch and press with an iron to create a crease. Fold it again by another 1 inch so the raw edge is hidden inside the fold. Pin along the entire length, spacing pins about 4 inches apart. Sew along the inner fold with a straight stitch, removing pins as you go. Backstitch at the start and end.

Repeat this process on the other long side, then on the bottom edge. For the bottom, you may want to fold up 1.5 inches instead of 1 inch to make the hem more durable. Press each hem as you finish it. Try on the cloak before you hem the neckline opening—if the length feels wrong or the hood pulls, you can still adjust. Once you are happy with the fit, fold and hem the two short edges at the front neckline the same way.

Adding a Closure

A cloak needs something to hold it closed at the front. The simplest option is a button and loop. Sew a button to one side of the front neckline, about 1 inch from the edge. Then create a loop on the opposite side by sewing a piece of thread or thin cord into a loop shape, or by cutting a small rectangle of fabric, folding it in half lengthwise, sewing the long edge closed, turning it right-side out, and stitching it to the other side of the neckline. The loop should be large enough for the button to pass through.

Alternatively, use ties. Cut two strips of fabric about 2 inches wide and 12 inches long. Fold each in half lengthwise with right sides together, sew the long edge closed, turn right-side out, and press flat. Fold the raw ends inward and stitch them closed. Sew one tie to each side of the front neckline. When you wear the cloak, you tie the two strips together under your chin or at your chest.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

The most common error is cutting the hood too small. If the hood opening does not match the cloak neckline width, the hood will pull and bunch. Measure twice before you cut. Another mistake is using fabric that is too thin or too stiff—thin fabric will not drape, and stiff fabric will stick out instead of hanging smoothly. Test a small piece by holding it up and seeing how it falls.

Many sewers also skip the topstitching step, which leaves seams that fray and look unfinished. Topstitching takes only a few extra minutes and makes a big difference. Finally, do not hem the cloak before trying it on. If the length is wrong, you will have to rip out the hem and redo it. Always test the fit first, especially if this is your first cloak.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make a cloak without a sewing machine?

Yes. Hand sewing takes longer—expect two to four times as much time—but the process is the same. Use a running stitch for seams and a backstitch for strength at the start and end of each seam. A thimble protects your finger, and a needle threader makes threading easier. Thick fabric is harder to hand sew, so choose a lighter-weight option like cotton or linen blend.

What if my fabric is narrower than 45 inches?

You can sew two pieces together to reach the width you need. Cut two rectangles of the same length, then sew them together along one short end with a 1/2-inch seam allowance. Press the seam flat and topstitch it for a clean finish. This creates one wider piece that you treat as your cloak body.

How do I make the cloak longer or shorter?

Measure from your shoulder down to where you want the hem to fall, add 2 inches for seam allowance, and cut your cloak body to that length. Longer cloaks (ankle-length) need more fabric and may drag on the ground, so test the length by trying on a similar piece of fabric before you cut. Shorter cloaks (hip-length) use less fabric and are easier to move in.

Should I line the cloak?

Lining is optional. An unlined cloak is lighter and faster to make. A lined cloak looks more finished on the inside and hides seams, but it requires twice as much fabric and extra sewing steps. If you want to line it, cut lining fabric to the same size as your cloak body, sew it to the cloak with right sides facing, leave a 6-inch opening, turn right-side out, and stitch the opening closed by hand.

Can I add a decorative trim or embroidery?

Yes. Add trim or embroidery before you hem the edges—it is easier to work on a flat piece. Sew trim along the bottom edge or around the hood opening. Embroider designs on the back or front of the cloak body. Once you finish the decoration, proceed with hemming as normal. Keep trim away from seams so it does not get caught when you sew.