A hot pad is two layers of fabric with insulation between them, sewn together at the edges

A hot pad (also called a pot holder) is straightforward to make: you cut two pieces of fabric to the same size, sandwich a layer of heat-resistant material between them, and sew around the edges to hold everything in place. The whole project takes about an hour, uses fabric scraps you probably have, and requires only a needle, thread, and a sewing machine or needle and thread by hand.

The insulation layer is what makes a hot pad work. Cotton batting, cotton flannel, or even folded cotton fabric will slow heat transfer enough to protect your hand for the few seconds it takes to move a hot pot. Synthetic insulation like polyester batting works too, though it melts at lower temperatures than cotton, so keep it away from direct flame.

You do not need special sewing skills. Straight seams and basic stitching are all you need. If you have never sewn before, this is a good first project because mistakes are forgiving—a slightly crooked seam or uneven stitching will not affect how the hot pad works.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut two fabric pieces the same size (usually 8 by 8 inches or 9 by 9 inches), and one piece of cotton batting or heat-resistant insulation to match.
  • Layer the fabric with insulation in the middle, then pin or baste the three layers together so they do not shift while you sew.
  • Sew around all four edges with a straight stitch, staying about one-quarter inch from the edge, then trim any loose threads.
  • Topstitching (a second line of stitches one-half inch from the edge) adds durability and a finished look, though it is optional.
  • Cotton batting and cotton flannel are the safest insulation choices; avoid synthetic batting if the pad will touch direct heat or open flame.

What materials and tools you need

For fabric, use two pieces of cotton, linen, or cotton-blend material. Quilting cotton is ideal because it is sturdy and comes in many colors, but old kitchen towels, bed sheets, or clothing scraps work fine. Avoid thin fabrics like silk or rayon—they tear easily and do not hold up to heat and moisture.

For insulation, cotton batting (the kind used in quilting) is the best choice. It is inexpensive, widely available at fabric stores and online, and rated for kitchen use. Cotton flannel (a thicker cotton weave) also works well and is often cheaper if you already have scraps. Avoid polyester batting if the pad will rest directly on a hot stove burner, because polyester melts around 300°F and cotton batting tolerates higher temperatures.

You will need thread that matches or complements your fabric, a needle (hand-sewing or machine), pins or clips to hold layers in place, scissors, and a ruler or measuring tape. A sewing machine makes the work faster and the seams stronger, but hand-sewing with a running stitch or backstitch works perfectly well.

Cutting and preparing the layers

Measure and cut two pieces of fabric to the same size. Eight by eight inches is a standard size for a square hot pad; nine by nine inches gives you a bit more coverage. You can also make rectangular pads (8 by 10 inches) or round ones if you have a template. The size does not matter as long as both fabric pieces match.

Cut one piece of batting or insulation to the same size as the fabric. If you are using cotton flannel instead of batting, cut it to the same size as well. If you are using multiple layers of thin fabric (like folded kitchen towels), stack them and cut all layers at once so they are the same size.

Lay out the three layers in order: one fabric piece (right side down), the insulation in the middle, and the second fabric piece (right side up). This way, when you sew, the finished seams will be on the outside and the insulation will be hidden inside. Smooth each layer as you go so there are no wrinkles or bunches.

Pinning and basting the layers together

Once the three layers are stacked, pin them together so they do not shift while you sew. Place pins every two to three inches around the pad, pushing the pin through all three layers. If you do not have pins, you can use small clips, clothespins, or even tape—anything that holds the layers in place temporarily.

Some sewers prefer to baste (make large temporary stitches) instead of pinning. To baste by hand, use a long needle and thread in a contrasting color, and make long, loose stitches around the perimeter and through the middle of the pad. Basting takes a few extra minutes but makes machine sewing easier because the layers are less likely to slip.

If you are using a sewing machine, pinning is usually enough. If you are sewing by hand, basting gives you more control and prevents the layers from bunching as you work.

Sewing the edges with a straight stitch

Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch with medium length (about 2.5 on most machines). If you are sewing by hand, use a running stitch or backstitch, which are both strong and straightforward. Start at one corner and sew along one edge, staying about one-quarter inch from the edge of the fabric. This distance is called the seam allowance.

When you reach a corner, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot (if using a machine), turn the fabric 90 degrees, lower the presser foot, and continue sewing. If sewing by hand, straightforward turn the fabric and keep stitching. Sew all four sides, then remove the pins or basting stitches.

Trim any loose threads with scissors. If the edges look frayed, you can trim them slightly with pinking shears (scissors with a zigzag edge) to reduce fraying, though this is optional. The pad is now functional and ready to use.

Adding a topstitch for durability and appearance

A topstitch is a second line of stitching that runs parallel to the first seam, usually one-half inch from the edge. It serves two purposes: it makes the pad more durable by anchoring all three layers more firmly, and it gives the pad a finished, professional look. Topstitching is optional, but it is worth doing if you want the pad to last longer.

To topstitch, sew a straight line one-half inch in from the edge, going all the way around the pad. You can use the same thread color or a contrasting color for visual interest. If you are sewing by hand, use a backstitch for strength. The topstitch does not need to be perfect—slight wobbles are part of the handmade charm.

Some sewers also add a line of stitching down the middle of the pad (from one edge to the opposite edge) to anchor the insulation layer and prevent it from shifting over time. This is especially useful if the pad will be washed frequently.

Finishing touches and care

Once the pad is sewn, test it by holding it while touching a warm (not hot) pot or pan. It should feel comfortable and protective. If it feels too thin, you can make another pad with an extra layer of batting in the middle.

Hot pads can be washed by hand in warm soapy water or in a washing machine on a gentle cycle. Air-dry them flat or hanging. Do not put them in the dryer, because heat can damage the batting and cause shrinkage. If the batting becomes lumpy or compressed after washing, you can gently massage it to redistribute the fibers.

Store hot pads in a kitchen drawer or hang them from a hook near the stove. Over time, the fabric may fade or the batting may compress, but a well-made pad will last for years with normal use.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use regular polyester batting instead of cotton batting?

Polyester batting works for hot pads that will not touch direct heat, but it melts around 300°F. If your pad will rest on a hot stove burner or near an open flame, use cotton batting instead. Cotton tolerates higher temperatures and is safer for kitchen use.

What if I do not have a sewing machine?

Hand-sewing works perfectly well. Use a backstitch or running stitch, which are both strong enough for a hot pad. Hand-sewing takes longer (maybe 30 to 45 minutes instead of 15), but the result is just as durable. A thimble on your finger helps protect it from the needle.

How thick should the insulation layer be?

One layer of cotton batting (usually about one-quarter inch thick) is standard and provides good protection. If you want extra insulation, use two layers of batting or fold a piece of cotton flannel in half. Thicker is not always better—too much bulk makes the pad stiff and hard to handle.

Can I make a hot pad without a sewing machine or by hand?

Yes. Hand-sewing with a needle and thread is slower but produces the same result. A backstitch (pushing the needle backward through the fabric after each stitch) is stronger than a running stitch and recommended for hot pads.

What size should I make my hot pad?

Eight by eight inches is standard and fits most hands comfortably. Nine by nine inches gives more coverage. Rectangular pads (8 by 10 inches) work well for handling larger pots. The size does not affect how well it works—choose what feels comfortable for your hand.