What a liner is and why you sew it in

A liner is a layer of fabric sewn to the inside of a garment or bag to hide seams, add structure, and make the piece look finished. In a jacket or coat, the liner covers the internal seams and gives the garment weight and drape. In a bag, it hides the raw edges of the outer fabric and the attachment points where handles or straps connect. The liner is always sewn in last, after the outer piece is mostly complete.

Liners are typically made from cotton, silk, or synthetic blends—fabrics that are smooth, durable, and less likely to snag on clothing or contents. The liner fabric is usually lighter in weight than the outer fabric and often a contrasting color or pattern, though it can match.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut your liner fabric to the same size as the outer fabric, or slightly smaller if the pattern calls for it, and mark the grain line so both layers align the same way.
  • Sew the liner pieces together using the same seams as the outer fabric, then press all seams flat before attaching the liner to the outer piece.
  • Pin the liner to the outer fabric with right sides together, sew around the opening edge, then turn the whole piece right-side out through a gap you leave unsewn.
  • Slip-stitch the opening closed by hand after turning, using thread that matches the liner fabric and small, invisible stitches along the fold.
  • Press the finished piece flat and topstitch around the opening edge if the pattern calls for it, which also secures the liner permanently in place.

Prepare and cut your liner fabric

Lay out your liner fabric on a flat surface and place your pattern pieces on top, following the grain line marked on the pattern. The grain line matters because it tells you which direction the fabric should run—usually lengthwise down the center of the piece. If the outer fabric and liner run in different directions, they will pull against each other and create puckers or wrinkles.

Cut the liner pieces to match the outer pieces exactly, or cut them slightly smaller (usually ¼ inch) if your pattern specifies. Some patterns ask for a smaller liner so it does not show at the edges when the garment is worn. Mark any notches, darts, or construction marks on the liner fabric using tailor's chalk or a fabric pen, just as you would on the outer fabric. These marks help you match seams and align pieces correctly.

Assemble the liner separately

Sew the liner pieces together using the same seams as the outer fabric—side seams, shoulder seams, or whatever your pattern requires. Use a thread color that matches the liner fabric and a standard stitch length (usually 2.0 to 2.5 millimeters on a sewing machine). Sew slowly and follow the seam allowance marked on your pattern, usually ½ inch.

After sewing each seam, press it flat with an iron set to the temperature appropriate for your liner fabric. Press from the wrong side (the side that will be hidden) to avoid shine marks. If your pattern calls for darts or pleats in the liner, sew and press those now as well. The liner should be a complete, finished piece before you attach it to the outer fabric.

Pin the liner to the outer fabric

Place the outer fabric right-side up on your work surface. Lay the liner on top of it with the right sides together—meaning the two "good" sides of the fabric face each other, and the seams and raw edges are on the outside. This is the opposite of how you normally sew, and it is the key to hiding all the seams when you turn the piece right-side out later.

Pin the two layers together around the opening edge—the edge where the liner will be visible when the garment or bag is worn. For a jacket, this is usually the front opening, armholes, and neckline. For a bag, it is the top opening. Pin every 2 to 3 inches, pushing the pins straight through both layers so they hold firmly. Match any seams or notches as you pin, so the liner and outer fabric line up exactly.

Sew the liner to the outer fabric and turn right-side out

Sew around the pinned edge using a ½-inch seam allowance, the same as the rest of your seams. Sew slowly and remove pins as you approach them. Leave a 4- to 6-inch gap unsewn—this is your turning gap, the opening you will use to turn the whole piece right-side out. Mark this gap clearly with a pin or chalk so you do not accidentally sew past it.

After sewing, trim the seam allowance to ¼ inch around the entire edge, including the turning gap. Clip into the seam allowance at curves (like armholes or necklines) every ½ inch or so, cutting almost to the seam line but not through it. These clips allow the fabric to curve smoothly when you turn it right-side out. Reach through the turning gap, grab the outer fabric, and pull the whole piece through the gap. The right sides of both fabrics are now facing outward, and all the seams are hidden inside.

Slip-stitch the opening closed

Press the entire piece flat with an iron, paying special attention to the opening edge. The fold should be crisp and even. Thread a hand-sewing needle with thread that matches your liner fabric and knot the end. Slide the needle into the fold of the opening edge so the knot is hidden inside the fold.

Bring the needle out through the fold, then insert it directly across into the fold of the opposite layer. Slide the needle along inside the fold for about ¼ inch, then bring it back out. Pull the thread snug but not tight—tight stitches will pucker the fabric. Repeat this stitch all the way around the opening until the gap is closed. The stitches should be nearly invisible from the outside because they run inside the fold of the fabric.

Press and topstitch if needed

After closing the opening, press the entire piece again with an iron to set the stitches and remove any wrinkles. If your pattern calls for topstitching—a visible line of stitching around the opening edge—do this now. Topstitching not only looks professional but also secures the liner permanently in place so it cannot shift or bunch inside the garment or bag.

Use a thread color that matches the outer fabric and sew ¼ inch away from the opening edge, all the way around. Sew slowly and use a slightly longer stitch length (2.5 to 3.0 millimeters) so the topstitching is visible and even. Press one final time after topstitching to set the stitches and finish the piece.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I machine-sew the opening closed instead of hand-sewing?

Yes, but hand-sewing is invisible and machine-sewing is not. If you machine-sew the opening, use a thread that matches the outer fabric and topstitch ¼ inch from the fold. This makes the seam a design feature rather than trying to hide it. Hand-sewing takes longer but looks more polished.

What if my liner fabric is slippery or stretchy?

Use a walking foot on your sewing machine—it feeds both layers evenly and prevents slipping. Sew slowly and hold gentle tension on the fabric as it feeds under the presser foot. For stretchy liners, use a ballpoint needle designed for knits, which slides between fibers rather than piercing them.

Do I need to sew the liner to the outer fabric at the seams?

Most patterns do not require this, but some do. Check your pattern instructions. If it calls for tacking (a few stitches that hold the liner to the seams), do this after you close the opening. Use thread that matches the liner and sew just a few stitches at each seam, hidden inside the garment or bag.

What if I sewed past my turning gap by accident?

You can still turn the piece right-side out, but you will need to carefully cut open the seam you sewed over the gap. Use a seam ripper to cut every third or fourth stitch, then pull the threads out. Once you have turned the piece, hand-sew the gap closed as normal.

How do I keep the liner from showing at the edges of a garment?

Cut the liner slightly smaller than the outer fabric—usually ¼ inch smaller all around—so it sits just inside the outer edge. When you press the finished piece, the outer fabric will roll slightly to the inside, hiding the liner edge completely. This is called a rolled edge and is standard in tailored garments.