What you need to make a messenger bag
A messenger bag is a flat, rectangular bag with a long strap that crosses your body. You can make one with basic sewing skills and a standard sewing machine. The simplest version uses two pieces of fabric for the front and back, two pieces for the sides, a flap, and a webbing strap.
Gather these materials before you start: two pieces of main fabric (canvas or heavy cotton works well), two pieces of lining fabric, one piece of fabric for the flap, one piece of webbing for the strap (1.5 to 2 inches wide), thread that matches your fabric, a magnetic snap or button for closure, and optional: a D-ring or clip for attaching keys. You will also need a sewing machine, scissors, pins, a measuring tape, and a seam ripper for mistakes.
The finished bag is typically 12 inches wide, 10 inches tall, and 3 inches deep. Adjust these measurements if you want a larger or smaller bag. Write down your final measurements before cutting any fabric—this prevents mistakes that waste material.
Key Takeaways
- Cut two main fabric pieces for the front and back, two side pieces, one flap piece, and prepare webbing for the strap before sewing anything.
- Sew the side pieces to the front and back panels first, then attach the lining inside the bag with the right sides facing each other.
- Attach the webbing strap to the inside seams of the bag so it does not show from the outside.
- Sew the flap to the back panel, then attach your magnetic snap or button so the flap closes securely.
- Topstitching around the edges after assembly makes the bag look finished and reinforces the seams.
Cutting your fabric pieces to the right size
Measure and mark your fabric before cutting. For a 12-by-10-inch bag that is 3 inches deep, cut two main fabric pieces that are 12 inches wide and 10 inches tall. These are your front and back panels. Cut two side pieces that are 3 inches wide and 10 inches tall—these form the depth of the bag.
Cut one flap piece that is 12 inches wide and 6 inches tall. This flap will fold over the front of the bag when closed. Cut two lining pieces the same size as your main front and back panels (12 by 10 inches), and two lining side pieces the same size as your main side pieces (3 by 10 inches).
Cut your webbing strap to about 50 to 60 inches long, depending on how long you want the strap to hang. A longer strap sits higher on your shoulder; a shorter one sits lower on your hip. Measure by draping the webbing across your body before cutting. Add 2 inches to your measurement so you have room to fold the ends under and sew them securely.
Assembling the main bag body
Place your front panel and one side panel with their right sides together (the pretty sides facing each other). Pin along the edge where they meet. Sew a straight seam 0.5 inches from the edge using a medium stitch length. Backstitch at the beginning and end of every seam to lock the thread. Remove the pins and press the seam flat with an iron.
Repeat this step to attach the other side panel to the front panel, then attach both side panels to the back panel. You now have a three-sided box shape. The bottom of the bag is still open—you will close it with the lining.
Before moving forward, try the bag on by holding it against your body. If the width or depth feels wrong, you can still adjust by unpicking seams with a seam ripper and resewing. Once you attach the lining, changes become much harder.
Attaching the webbing strap inside the seams
The strap should be sewn into the side seams so it does not show on the outside of the finished bag. Fold 0.5 inches of webbing to the wrong side (the back) at each end and press with an iron. This prevents fraying and gives you a clean edge to sew.
Open up one of the side seams you just sewed by using a seam ripper to cut the thread. Do not cut the fabric itself—just the thread. Slide one end of the webbing strap into the opened seam, positioning it so the folded end sits inside the bag. Pin it in place. Sew the seam closed again, sewing through the webbing at the same time. This locks the strap into the seam.
Repeat on the opposite side seam with the other end of the webbing. The strap now runs through both side seams and cannot pull loose. Test by pulling hard on the strap—it should not move.
Sewing the lining and closing the bottom
Place your two lining front and back pieces with their right sides together. Sew the side lining pieces to the front and back lining pieces the same way you did with the main fabric—0.5 inches from the edge, backstitching at the start and end. You now have a lining box that matches the shape of your main bag.
Slide the lining inside the main bag with the wrong sides facing each other (so the right side of the lining faces the right side of the main bag). The lining should fit snugly inside. Pin the top edges of the lining to the top edges of the main bag all the way around. Sew these edges together 0.5 inches from the top, backstitching at the corners.
The bottom of the bag is now closed because the lining is sewn to the main fabric at the top. Press the entire bag with an iron to flatten all the seams. The bag now has structure and will hold its shape.
Attaching the flap and closure
Place the flap piece with its right side down on top of the back panel of the bag, aligning the top edges. The flap should be centered so equal amounts hang off both sides. Pin along the top edge. Sew a seam 0.5 inches from the top edge, backstitching at both ends. Fold the flap up and press the seam with an iron so it lies flat.
Decide whether you want a magnetic snap or a button closure. For a magnetic snap, follow the package instructions to install one half on the inside of the flap and one half on the front of the bag, centered and aligned so they meet when the flap closes. For a button, sew a button to the front of the bag and sew a buttonhole in the flap, or sew a loop of thread or webbing to the flap and a button to the front.
Test the closure by closing the flap. It should sit flat and find without gaps. If the flap is too long or too short, you can trim it with scissors and finish the raw edge with a zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to prevent fraying.
Finishing the edges and adding details
Topstitching—a visible line of stitching on the outside of the fabric—makes a bag look professional and reinforces seams. Thread your machine with thread that matches or contrasts with your fabric, depending on the look you want. Sew a line 0.25 inches from the top edge of the bag all the way around, backstitching at the corners. This holds the lining in place and creates a finished appearance.
If you want to add a D-ring or key clip, sew it to the inside of the bag near the top seam before you close the lining. Fold a small loop of webbing, pin it inside the bag, and sew it down when you sew the lining to the main fabric. The ring or clip will hang inside the bag and be accessible through the opening.
Trim any loose threads with scissors. Press the entire bag one more time with an iron. Your messenger bag is now complete and ready to use.
Frequently Asked Questions
What fabric weight should I use for a messenger bag?
Use heavy cotton, canvas, or upholstery fabric that does not stretch. These fabrics hold their shape and wear well. Avoid lightweight cotton or knits, which will sag and distort over time. If you love a lighter fabric, back it with interfacing (a stiff fabric you iron onto the back) to add body.
Can I make this bag without a sewing machine?
You can hand-sew a messenger bag, but it takes much longer and the seams are weaker. A sewing machine creates stronger, more even seams that hold up to daily use. If you do not own one, many libraries and community centers offer sewing machines you can use for a small fee.
How do I prevent the webbing strap from fraying?
Fold the raw ends of the webbing under by 0.5 inches and press with an iron before sewing them into the seams. You can also seal the cut edges with a lighter by carefully running the flame along the edge—the heat melts the synthetic fibers and stops fraying. Test on a scrap first.
What if my bag is too stiff or too floppy?
Stiffness usually comes from heavy fabric or interfacing. Use lighter fabric or skip the interfacing. Floppiness means your fabric is too light or your seams are not tight enough. Check that you are sewing 0.5 inches from the edge and using a medium stitch length. Tighter seams create a firmer bag.
Can I add pockets to the inside?
Yes. Before you sew the lining into the bag, sew a pocket piece to the wrong side of one of the lining panels. Make the pocket about 6 inches wide and 5 inches tall. Sew three sides of the pocket, leaving the top open. Then sew the lining into the bag as normal. The pocket will be accessible from inside.