What You Need to Know Before You Start
Sewing a net means stitching together mesh fabric or netting material to create a finished piece—whether that's a decorative net, a fishing net, a mosquito net, or netting for a craft project. The basic technique involves joining pieces of net with thread, using either a needle and thread by hand or a sewing machine, depending on the weight and type of netting you're working with.
The challenge with netting is that it's open and slippery. Unlike solid fabric, the holes in the mesh mean your thread can slip through, and the material itself can shift under your needle. This guide walks you through the most reliable hand-sewing and machine-sewing methods, the tools you'll actually need, and the mistakes that trip up first-time net sewers.
Key Takeaways
- Hand-sewing a net with a whip stitch or ladder stitch gives you the most control and works best for lightweight netting and small projects.
- Machine sewing requires a ballpoint or stretch needle, a walking foot or stabilizer, and a straight stitch or narrow zigzag to prevent the net from puckering.
- Always use thread that matches your net color or is slightly darker, because mismatched thread shows through the mesh.
- Stabilizing your net with tissue paper, water-soluble stabilizer, or a walking foot prevents shifting and bunching during stitching.
- Test your stitch on a scrap of the same netting before you commit to your finished piece.
Hand-Sewing a Net with a Whip Stitch
The whip stitch is the most forgiving hand-ssewing method for net because it works along the edge of the mesh and doesn't require you to push a needle through the netting itself. Start by laying your two pieces of net flat, overlapping the edges by about half an inch. Thread a needle with thread that matches your net—use a single strand for lightweight netting, or double it for heavier mesh.
Knot the end of your thread and bring the needle up through the overlapped layers from underneath, so the knot sits between the two pieces. Take a small stitch (about 1/8 inch) along the edge of the top piece of net, then bring your needle across to the bottom piece and take an identical stitch there. Continue alternating between top and bottom, keeping your stitches small and close together—aim for about 8 to 10 stitches per inch. The thread should lie along the edge of the mesh, not through it.
Work slowly and check your tension as you go. The thread should be snug enough to hold the pieces together but not so tight that it puckers the delicate netting. When you reach the end, take two small stitches in the same spot, then thread your needle back through a few stitches before trimming the thread.
Hand-Sewing with a Ladder Stitch for Invisible Seams
If you want the seam to be nearly invisible, use a ladder stitch (also called an invisible stitch). This works best when you're joining two pieces of net edge-to-edge, with no overlap. Fold the raw edges of each piece inward by about 1/4 inch and press them lightly with your fingers or a cool iron—do not use high heat on netting, as it can melt.
Thread your needle and knot the end. Bring the needle up through one folded edge, then slide it horizontally inside the fold for about 1/4 inch before bringing it back out. Cross over to the opposite piece and repeat, sliding the needle inside the fold and bringing it out 1/4 inch away. The thread runs inside the folds, hidden from view. Continue this pattern, pulling the thread snug every inch or so to close the seam.
This stitch takes longer than a whip stitch but produces a seam that's nearly impossible to see from the outside. It's ideal for decorative nets, veils, or any project where appearance matters.
Machine-Sewing a Net Without Puckering
Machine sewing is faster than hand sewing but requires the right setup to prevent the net from bunching or tearing. The most important step is choosing the correct needle: use a ballpoint needle (size 70/10 or 80/12) or a stretch needle, which slides between the fibers of the mesh rather than piercing them. A regular sharp needle will catch and tear the netting.
Set your machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.0 to 2.5 mm—shorter stitches can pucker delicate netting. Use thread that matches your net and reduce the presser foot pressure if your machine allows it. Place your two pieces of net right sides together and pin them along the seam line, using pins perpendicular to the edge so they don't distort the mesh.
Before you sew your actual project, test your stitch on two scraps of the same netting. Sew a short seam and check for puckering, bunching, or skipped stitches. If the net puckers, reduce the presser foot pressure further or use a walking foot, which feeds the top and bottom layers evenly and prevents shifting.
Using Stabilizer to Prevent Shifting and Bunching
Netting shifts easily under the presser foot because there's nothing solid for the foot to grip. The most effective fix is to stabilize the seam with a temporary backing material. Tear-away stabilizer or tissue paper works well: place a strip of either material directly under your seam line before you sew. The stabilizer supports the netting and prevents it from bunching. After you finish sewing, tear away the stabilizer carefully—it should come off in small pieces without damaging your stitches.
For very delicate netting, use water-soluble stabilizer instead. It dissolves when you rinse the finished piece in cool water, leaving no residue. This method takes a few extra minutes but produces the cleanest result.
Another option is a walking foot, which is a presser foot attachment that feeds the top and bottom layers of fabric at the same rate. This is especially useful if you're sewing multiple seams or working with heavier netting. Walking feet are available for most sewing machine brands and cost between $20 and $50.
Finishing Raw Edges and Securing Seams
After you've sewn your seam, decide whether to finish the raw edges. For decorative nets or pieces that won't be washed, you can leave the edges as they are—netting doesn't fray the way woven fabric does. For nets that will be handled frequently or washed, trim the raw edges to about 1/4 inch from the seam line and finish them with a narrow zigzag stitch or a serger if you have one.
To find your seam and prevent it from coming loose, backstitch at the beginning and end of every seam. If you're hand sewing, take two small stitches in the same spot at the start and finish. If you're machine sewing, use your machine's backstitch button or reverse lever for about 1/2 inch at each end.
For projects that will see heavy use—fishing nets, sports equipment, or outdoor netting—consider reinforcing seams by sewing over them twice or using a double row of stitches about 1/8 inch apart. This distributes the stress and makes the seam much stronger.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
The most common mistake is using the wrong needle. A regular sewing needle or a sharp needle will catch the fibers of the netting and create snags or tears. Always use a ballpoint or stretch needle for machine sewing. For hand sewing, use a needle that's small enough to pass through the mesh without enlarging the holes—a size 7 or 8 embroidery needle works well.
The second mistake is sewing too fast or with too much tension. Netting is delicate, and rushing causes bunching and puckering. Slow down, especially if you're new to sewing net. Let the machine do the work; you just guide the fabric. If you're hand sewing, take small, even stitches and check your work every few inches.
The third mistake is not testing your stitch first. Every type of netting behaves differently—some are stiff, some are stretchy, some are very fine. Spend five minutes testing on scraps before you commit to your finished piece. This saves frustration and wasted material.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use regular thread to sew a net?
Yes, but match the thread color to your net as closely as possible. Because netting is mesh, mismatched thread shows through the holes and is very visible. If you can't find an exact match, choose a thread that's slightly darker than your net rather than lighter.
What's the difference between hand sewing and machine sewing a net?
Hand sewing gives you more control and works well for small projects, delicate netting, and seams where appearance is critical. Machine sewing is faster and stronger, making it better for larger projects or nets that will be used frequently. For beginners, hand sewing is often easier because you can see exactly what's happening and adjust as you go.
Do I need a special presser foot to sew netting on a machine?
A walking foot is helpful but not required. It prevents shifting and bunching, especially on lightweight netting. If you don't have a walking foot, use tear-away stabilizer under your seam instead. A standard presser foot works fine as long as you reduce the pressure and use the correct needle.
How do I keep my net from slipping while I hand sew?
Pin the two pieces together along the seam line using pins perpendicular to the edge. Use enough pins to keep the net from shifting—about one pin every inch. You can also hold the net gently with your non-sewing hand to keep it stable as you stitch. Some sewers find it helpful to work on a flat surface rather than holding the net in their lap.
What thread weight should I use for sewing netting?
Use all-purpose thread (weight 40) for most netting projects. For very fine, delicate netting, you can use a finer thread like 60-weight embroidery thread. For heavy-duty netting like fishing nets, use a heavier thread or even upholstery thread. Always test on scraps first to make sure the thread doesn't pucker or break the delicate mesh.