A panel quilt uses large printed fabric pieces as the main design
A panel quilt is a quilt made from large pre-printed fabric panels—usually 36 by 44 inches or smaller—that you sew together with strips of coordinating fabric called sashing and borders. Instead of piecing hundreds of small squares, you're working with a few large pieces, which makes panel quilts faster to complete and ideal if you're new to quilting or want a finished quilt in a few weekends.
The basic steps are: cut your panels to size if needed, arrange them on a design wall, sew them together with sashing strips between them, add borders around the outside, layer the quilt sandwich (top, batting, backing), quilt it, and bind the edges. Most panel quilts use two to six panels arranged in a grid, though you can make them with just one large panel.
Key Takeaways
- Panel quilts start with large pre-printed fabric pieces that require minimal cutting, making them much faster than traditional pieced quilts.
- Sashing strips sewn between panels add structure and let you customize the look with coordinating fabric colors.
- You will need a rotary cutter, self-healing cutting mat, quilting ruler, and a sewing machine that can handle multiple fabric layers.
- The entire process—from cutting to binding—typically takes 20 to 40 hours depending on quilt size and your experience level.
- Pressing seams flat after each sewing step prevents puckering and keeps your quilt square and even.
Gather your materials and tools before you start
You will need the panel fabric itself, batting (the middle layer that gives warmth and loft), backing fabric (the underside), and coordinating fabric for sashing and borders. Most quilters buy pre-cut sashing kits designed for their specific panels, or they cut their own strips from yardage. A standard panel quilt uses 2 to 4 yards of backing fabric and 1 to 2 yards of batting, depending on the finished size.
Essential tools include a rotary cutter, a self-healing cutting mat (at least 24 by 36 inches), a quilting ruler (6 by 24 inches is standard), and a sewing machine in good working order. You will also need thread (all-purpose or quilting thread), a walking foot or quilting foot for your machine, pins, and a seam ripper for mistakes. A design wall—a large vertical surface where you can pin fabric pieces to see the layout—is helpful but not required; a bed or clean floor works too.
Cut panels and sashing strips to the correct width
Most pre-printed panels come ready to use, but you may need to trim them to a consistent size if they are slightly different dimensions. Measure your panel and note its width and height. If you are using a pre-cut sashing kit, follow the kit instructions for strip width. If you are cutting your own, sashing strips are typically 2 to 2.5 inches wide (finished width 1.5 to 2 inches after seaming).
Use your rotary cutter, ruler, and mat to cut straight strips from your sashing fabric. Cut enough strips to go between all your panels horizontally and vertically, plus extra for borders. For example, if you are making a two-by-two grid of panels, you will need three horizontal strips and three vertical strips, plus four border strips. Lay out all your cut pieces on your design wall or floor to see the final layout before sewing anything.
Sew panels and sashing together in rows
Start by sewing your panels and sashing strips into horizontal rows. Place your first panel right-side up, then place a sashing strip right-side down on top of it, aligning the raw edges. Sew along that edge with a quarter-inch seam allowance (the standard in quilting). Open the pieces and press the seam flat with an iron, pressing the seam allowance toward the sashing strip.
Continue adding panels and sashing strips across the row until it is complete. Press each seam as you go. Once all rows are sewn, sew the rows together by placing sashing strips between them, using the same quarter-inch seam allowance and pressing after each step. Take your time here—if your seams are not straight or your seam allowance is uneven, your quilt top will not lie flat. Check that your quilt top is square by measuring corner to corner; both measurements should be the same.
Add borders and prepare the quilt sandwich
Borders frame the quilt and add visual weight. Measure the height of your quilt top through the center, then cut two border strips to that length. Sew them to the left and right sides, pressing after each seam. Measure the width of your quilt top (including the side borders you just added), then cut two more border strips to that length and sew them to the top and bottom. Press the final seams.
Now you have a quilt top. Layer it with batting and backing fabric to create the quilt sandwich. Cut your batting and backing 4 to 8 inches larger than your quilt top on all sides. Layer them in order: backing fabric wrong-side up, then batting, then quilt top right-side up. Smooth out wrinkles as you go. Pin or baste the layers together using safety pins every 4 to 6 inches, or use spray baste to hold them temporarily. This prevents shifting while you quilt.
Quilt the layers together and bind the edges
Quilting stitches hold all three layers together permanently. You can quilt by hand with a needle and thread, or use a sewing machine with a walking foot. straightforward options include quilting in the ditch (along the seams between panels and sashing), straight lines across the quilt, or a meandering free-motion pattern. Start in the center and work outward to avoid bunching. Remove pins as you approach them.
Once quilting is done, trim the excess batting and backing even with the quilt top using your rotary cutter and ruler. Cut binding strips (usually 2.25 inches wide) from your binding fabric, sew them end-to-end to make one long strip, and press in half lengthwise. Sew the binding to the front of the quilt with a quarter-inch seam allowance, mitering the corners. Fold the binding to the back and hand-stitch it down with a ladder stitch or whip stitch. Press the finished quilt with a cool iron.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
Uneven seam allowances are the most common problem—they cause your quilt top to be wavy or out of square. Measure your seam allowance with a ruler before you start, and check it every few seams. Pressing too hard or with a too-hot iron can distort fabric; use a medium heat and a light touch. Not pressing seams flat between steps causes puckering and makes later seams harder to match.
Panels that are slightly different sizes can be trimmed to match, but do this before sewing. If you notice after sewing that your quilt top is not square, you can square it up with your rotary cutter and ruler, but this removes fabric from the edges and may affect your border width. It is easier to measure twice and cut once. If you make a mistake while sewing, use a seam ripper to remove stitches and resew rather than trying to sew over the old seam.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I make a panel quilt without a design wall?
Yes. Lay your cut pieces on a bed, clean floor, or large table to see the layout. Take a photo with your phone so you remember the arrangement. A design wall is convenient but not required.
What size should my finished quilt be?
That depends on how many panels you use and how wide you make your sashing and borders. A two-by-two panel quilt with 2-inch sashing and 4-inch borders typically finishes around 60 by 70 inches. Sketch your layout on paper and add up the measurements to plan ahead.
Do I have to use a walking foot to quilt?
A walking foot helps prevent fabric layers from shifting while you quilt straight lines. For free-motion quilting, you will use a free-motion or darning foot instead. You can quilt by hand without any special foot, though it takes longer.
What if my panels are different sizes?
Trim them to the same size before you start sewing. Measure the smallest panel and use that as your target size, then trim the others to match. This keeps your quilt top square and your sashing strips aligned.
How much fabric do I need for backing?
Buy enough to cut a piece 4 to 8 inches larger than your quilt top on all sides. For a 60-by-70-inch quilt, you need at least 68 by 78 inches of backing, which is typically 2 to 3 yards depending on fabric width.