A pant hem is sewn by folding the fabric edge up, pinning it in place, and stitching it closed with either a needle and thread or a sewing machine

The basic process takes about 30 minutes for a hand-sewn hem and 15 minutes for a machine-sewn one, depending on pant leg length and your speed. You will need the pants, thread that matches the fabric color, a needle or sewing machine, pins, scissors, and a measuring tape. The most common mistake is folding the hem too wide — most pants use a 1 to 1.5 inch fold — or stitching too loosely, which causes the hem to come undone after a few washes.

The two main routes are hand sewing, which is quieter and works on any fabric, and machine sewing, which is faster and creates a stronger stitch. Hand sewing is better for delicate fabrics like silk or linen blends. Machine sewing works best on sturdy cotton and denim. Both methods produce a hem that lasts through regular wear if the stitches are tight and evenly spaced.

Key Takeaways

  • Measure the desired pant length while wearing the shoes you plan to wear with them, standing on a flat surface.
  • Fold the pant leg up 1 to 1.5 inches and pin it in place before cutting or stitching anything.
  • Hand sewing uses a slip stitch or running stitch and takes longer but gives you more control over delicate fabrics.
  • Machine sewing uses a straight stitch and is faster, but requires practice to keep the line even on curved pant legs.
  • Press the hem with an iron after sewing to set the fold and make the stitch less visible.

Measure the pant length while wearing the shoes you will wear

Put on the pants and the shoes or insoles you normally wear with them. Stand on a flat, hard surface — not carpet — and have someone measure from the top of your shoe to where you want the pant to end. The standard length is about half an inch above the shoe, but this varies by style and personal preference. Mark this length on both legs with a pin or a piece of tape on the inside of the pant leg.

If you are measuring alone, stand in front of a mirror and use a measuring tape to check both legs are the same length. Uneven hems are visible when you walk. Write down the measurement so you remember it if you are hemming both legs on different days.

Fold and pin the hem to the correct width

Turn the pant leg inside out. Fold the fabric up along the line you marked, creating a fold about 1 to 1.5 inches wide. For heavier fabrics like denim, use 1.5 inches. For lighter fabrics like cotton blends, 1 inch is enough. Pin the fold in place every 2 to 3 inches around the entire leg, making sure the fold is even and the pins are perpendicular to the fold.

Try the pants on while they are pinned to check the length one more time. Walk around and sit down to make sure the hem does not feel too short or too long. If the length is wrong, unpin and adjust. Once you are satisfied, you can proceed to sewing.

Hand sewing a hem with a slip stitch

Thread a needle with about 18 inches of thread and tie a knot at the end. The slip stitch is the most invisible hand-sewing method for hems. Start at a seam on the inside of the pant leg. Bring the needle up through the fold of fabric so the knot stays hidden inside the fold. Push the needle through the main pant fabric directly across from where the thread came out, catching only a few threads of the outer fabric — not all the way through to the outside.

Slide the needle inside the fold about a quarter inch, then push it back out through the main fabric again. Repeat this pattern all the way around the pant leg. Keep your stitches small and tight — about a quarter inch apart. When you reach the end, tie off the thread inside the fold and trim it. The stitches should be nearly invisible from the outside.

A running stitch is faster but more visible. Push the needle straight through both layers of fabric, in and out, creating a line of stitches about a quarter inch apart. This method is stronger but shows on the outside of the pant, so it works best on darker fabrics or if you do not mind the visible line.

Machine sewing a hem with a straight stitch

Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2 to 2.5 millimeters. Use thread that matches your pant color. Start at a seam on the inside of the pant leg, about a quarter inch from the fold. Sew slowly around the entire leg, keeping the needle a consistent distance from the fold. Pant legs are curved, so you will need to guide the fabric gently as you sew to keep the line straight.

Backstitch at the beginning and end to lock the thread in place. Remove the pins as you approach them — do not sew over pins, as this can break the needle. When you finish, trim any loose thread and press the hem with an iron on medium heat to set the fold.

Trim excess fabric and finish the raw edge

After sewing, trim the excess fabric inside the fold to about a quarter inch from your stitching line. This reduces bulk and makes the hem less visible from the outside. For fabrics that fray easily, like cotton, you can finish the raw edge with a zigzag stitch on your machine or by hand with a whip stitch.

If you are hand sewing and want to finish the edge, use a whip stitch: bring the needle up through the fold, then push it diagonally through the raw edge of fabric and back into the fold. This creates a small loop that prevents fraying. Repeat every quarter inch around the entire hem.

Press the hem to set the fold and hide the stitches

Place the pant leg on an ironing board with the hem facing up. Set your iron to the heat level recommended for your fabric — check the care tag on the pant. Press the hem firmly for 10 to 15 seconds, moving the iron slowly along the fold. This sets the crease and makes the stitches less visible from the outside.

Turn the pant leg right-side out and press the outside of the leg as well, paying extra attention to the hem area. Let the pants cool completely before wearing them. A properly pressed hem looks more professional and lasts longer because the crease helps hold the fold in place.

Frequently Asked Questions

What thread color should I use?

Match the thread to your pant color as closely as possible. If your pants are a solid color, buy thread in the same shade. If you cannot find an exact match, choose a shade slightly darker rather than lighter — darker thread is less visible. For patterned pants, match the dominant color.

Can I use a sewing machine on delicate fabrics?

Yes, but use a lighter touch and a smaller stitch length — 1.5 to 2 millimeters instead of 2.5. Test on a scrap of fabric first. Hand sewing is safer for silk, linen, or very thin fabrics because you have more control and less risk of puckering or stretching the material.

How do I fix a hem that came undone?

If only a small section came loose, you can re-stitch just that area by hand using a slip stitch. If the entire hem is loose, you can re-sew it by machine or by hand. If the thread broke, use new thread and re-stitch the whole hem rather than trying to patch it — a full hem is stronger and more even.

What if my pant legs are different lengths?

Measure and hem each leg separately. Pant legs often come uneven from the factory or stretch differently over time. Hemming them individually ensures both legs end at the same point on your shoe, which is what matters for appearance.

Do I need to wash the pants before hemming?

Yes, if the pants are new. Wash and dry them once before hemming because fabric shrinks slightly in the wash, and hemming before washing can result in a hem that is too short after the first wash. For pants you have already worn, hemming as-is is fine.