What You Need to Know Before You Start
A panty is one of the easiest garments to sew because it has only four seams and no closures. You will need elastic, two pieces of fabric cut to the same shape, and a sewing machine set to a stretch stitch. The whole project takes two to three hours for a beginner, and the fit depends almost entirely on getting your measurements right before you cut.
The most common mistake is cutting the leg holes too small. Measure around your thigh at the fullest point, add one inch for seam allowance and comfort, then use that number to shape your leg opening. If you skip this step, the finished panty will be tight and uncomfortable even if the waist fits perfectly.
Key Takeaways
- Measure your waist, hip, and thigh before cutting fabric, because panties are fitted garments and guessing the size will result in a piece that does not fit.
- Use a stretch stitch on your machine, not a regular straight stitch, because regular stitches break when the fabric moves and the panty will fall apart in the wash.
- Sew the side seams first, then attach the elastic to the waist and leg openings, because this order keeps the fabric stable while you work.
- Fold the elastic in half lengthwise before you attach it so it covers the raw edge of the fabric and creates a finished look inside and out.
Taking Measurements and Cutting Your Pattern
Measure your waist at the narrowest point, your hip at the fullest point, and around your thigh where the leg opening will sit. Write these numbers down. For a basic panty, the front and back pieces are identical, so you only need one pattern shape.
Draw a rectangle on paper that is half your hip measurement wide and about eight inches tall. Round the top corners slightly to follow the curve of your body. At the bottom, draw a curved line inward to create the leg opening—this curve should be about two inches deep at the center. Cut out this pattern and pin it to your fabric. Cut two pieces: one for the front and one for the back. Mark the center front and center back with a pen so you know which side is which.
If you are using a commercial pattern, follow the size chart on the envelope. Most patterns assume you will use a quarter-inch seam allowance, so add that space when you cut.
Choosing Fabric and Elastic
Cotton jersey, cotton spandex blend, or nylon are the best choices for panties because they stretch and move with your body. Avoid rigid fabrics like cotton poplin or linen—they will not be comfortable. A four-way stretch fabric (one that stretches both horizontally and vertically) is easier to work with than a two-way stretch, but either will work.
For elastic, buy a width that matches the finished waist opening—usually half to three-quarters of an inch wide. Swimsuit elastic or lingerie elastic is thinner and more comfortable than regular waistband elastic. You will need a length equal to your waist measurement minus one inch. For the leg openings, use a narrower elastic, usually one-quarter to one-half inch wide, and cut it to the length of your leg opening measurement minus one inch.
Sewing the Side Seams
Place the front and back pieces with the right sides together (the pretty sides facing each other). Pin along both side seams from the waist to the leg opening. Set your machine to a stretch stitch—this is usually labeled as a lightning bolt or a wavy line on the stitch selector. A stretch stitch has a small backward motion that prevents the thread from breaking when the fabric moves.
Sew both side seams with a quarter-inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam. Trim the seam allowance to one-eighth inch and finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch if your machine has one. This prevents the edges from fraying in the wash. Try the panty on inside-out to check the fit at the waist and thigh before you attach the elastic.
Attaching Elastic to the Waist
Fold your waist elastic in half lengthwise and press it with an iron on low heat. This creates a fold that will wrap around the raw edge of the fabric. Pin the elastic to the inside of the waist opening, starting at the center back. The folded edge should face outward so it covers the raw fabric edge. Stretch the elastic slightly as you pin so it lies flat against the fabric without puckering.
Sew the elastic down with a stretch stitch, keeping the needle about one-eighth inch from the fold. Stretch the elastic gently as you sew so the stitches stay flexible. When you reach the starting point, overlap the elastic ends by one-half inch and sew through both layers. Trim the excess elastic and zigzag the overlapped section to prevent it from unraveling.
Attaching Elastic to the Leg Openings
Fold the leg elastic in half lengthwise and press it. Pin it to the inside of one leg opening, starting at the side seam. Stretch it slightly as you pin so it sits flat. Sew it down with a stretch stitch, one-eighth inch from the fold. Overlap the ends by one-half inch when you reach the starting point, and zigzag the overlap.
Repeat this process for the second leg opening. Try the panty on right-side-out to check that the leg openings are snug but not tight. If they are too loose, you can remove the elastic, trim it shorter, and re-sew it. If they are too tight, you will need to remove the elastic and cut a longer piece.
Finishing and Trying On
Turn the panty right-side-out and inspect all the seams. Trim any loose threads. Wash it in cool water with mild detergent and lay it flat to dry. Do not put it in the dryer, because heat can damage the elastic and the fabric.
When you try it on, the waist should sit at your natural waist without rolling down or riding up. The leg openings should feel snug but not tight—you should be able to fit one finger under the elastic. If the fit is not right, note what needs to change (waist tighter, legs looser, etc.) and adjust your measurements for the next panty you make.
Frequently Asked Questions
What stitch should I use if my machine does not have a stretch stitch?
A narrow zigzag stitch works as a substitute. Set the width to one-eighth inch and the length to one-eighth inch. This creates a flexible seam that will not break when the fabric stretches. Test it on a scrap of your fabric first to make sure the tension is even.
Can I use regular thread or do I need special thread?
Regular polyester thread works fine for panties. Some sewers prefer elastic thread in the bobbin for extra stretch, but it is not necessary. If you use elastic thread, wind it by hand onto the bobbin and loosen the bobbin tension slightly so the thread does not break.
How do I prevent the elastic from rolling or twisting inside the waist?
Fold the elastic in half before you attach it so the fold wraps around the raw edge of the fabric. This anchors the elastic in place. You can also sew a second line of stitching one-quarter inch away from the first line to create a channel that keeps the elastic from rolling.
What if I sewed the elastic on too tight and now the waist does not fit?
You can carefully cut the stitches with a seam ripper and remove the elastic. Measure a longer piece, fold it, and re-sew it. This takes about 15 minutes and is much faster than starting over with new fabric.
Do I need to pre-wash the fabric before I cut?
Pre-washing is not required for panties because they are worn close to the body and washed frequently anyway. If you want to pre-wash, use cool water and lay the fabric flat to dry so it does not stretch out of shape.