What You Need to Make a Petticoat

A petticoat is a skirt worn under a dress to add fullness and shape. The simplest version uses a rectangle of fabric gathered at the waist, so you can finish one in an afternoon even if you have never sewn before. You will need fabric (usually cotton or a cotton blend), elastic for the waistband, thread, a needle or sewing machine, scissors, and a measuring tape.

The amount of fabric depends on how full you want the petticoat to be. For a basic gathered petticoat, buy fabric that is twice your hip measurement in width and 24 to 30 inches long (depending on how much length you want below your dress). If your hips are 36 inches around, for example, buy fabric that is at least 72 inches wide. A single yard of 45-inch-wide fabric will work for smaller sizes; larger sizes may need 1.5 to 2 yards.

For the elastic waistband, measure your natural waist and subtract 2 inches. If your waist is 28 inches, buy 26 inches of 1-inch-wide elastic. Elastic comes in various widths; 1 inch is standard for petticoats and comfortable to wear.

Key Takeaways

  • A basic petticoat is a rectangle of fabric gathered at the waist, and you can sew one by hand or machine in a few hours.
  • Buy fabric twice your hip measurement in width so the petticoat will have enough fullness when gathered.
  • Sew a casing (a tunnel of fabric) at the top of the skirt, thread elastic through it, and stitch the ends together to create the waistband.
  • Finish the bottom edge with a straightforward rolled hem or a zigzag stitch to prevent fraying.
  • Try on the petticoat before you sew the casing closed to make sure the length is right.

Prepare and Cut Your Fabric

Wash and dry your fabric before you start, because most cotton shrinks slightly when wet. This prevents your finished petticoat from becoming shorter or tighter after the first wash. Press the fabric with an iron to remove wrinkles.

Lay the fabric flat on a clean table or floor. Measure the width you need (twice your hip measurement) and the length you need (24 to 30 inches, depending on how long you want it). Use a measuring tape and a straight edge or ruler to mark these measurements with tailor's chalk or a fabric pencil. Cut along the marked lines with sharp fabric scissors. You should end up with a rectangle.

If your fabric is narrower than twice your hip measurement, you will need to sew two pieces together along the side seams. Lay the two rectangles with right sides facing each other, pin along one long edge, and sew a straight seam 1/2 inch from the edge. Press the seam open with an iron. Repeat on the other side to join the pieces into one large rectangle.

Sew the Side Seams

Fold the rectangle in half lengthwise so the short ends meet, with the right sides of the fabric facing each other. Pin along the long open edge. Sew a straight seam 1/2 inch from the edge, using a sewing machine or a running stitch by hand. This creates a tube of fabric. Press the seam open with an iron.

Turn the tube right side out through one of the open ends so the seam is now on the inside. Press the tube flat with an iron so the seam runs down one side. This is now the main body of your petticoat.

Create the Waistband Casing

The casing is a tunnel of fabric at the top of the petticoat that holds the elastic. Fold the top raw edge of the tube down 1.5 inches toward the inside, with the fold facing down. Press this fold flat with an iron. Fold it down another 1.5 inches and press again. You now have a double layer of folded fabric at the top, creating a tunnel that is about 1.5 inches wide.

Pin this folded edge in place all the way around. Sew close to the bottom fold of the casing using a straight stitch, sewing all the way around the tube. Leave a 2-inch opening in the seam so you can thread the elastic through later. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam to lock the thread. Remove the pins.

Thread the elastic through the opening using a safety pin or a bodkin (a small tool made for this purpose). Attach the safety pin to one end of the elastic and push it through the casing tunnel. When the elastic comes out the other end, pull it gently until the petticoat gathers evenly all the way around. The elastic should not be so tight that the petticoat is uncomfortable, but tight enough that it stays up when you move.

Overlap the two ends of the elastic by 1 inch and sew them together with a zigzag stitch or by hand using a ladder stitch. Trim any excess elastic. Push the joined elastic back into the casing and sew the 2-inch opening closed using a ladder stitch or a straight stitch.

Finish the Bottom Edge

The bottom edge of the petticoat will fray if you leave it raw. You have two options: a rolled hem or a zigzag finish. A rolled hem looks neater but takes longer; a zigzag finish is faster and works well on most fabrics.

For a rolled hem, fold the bottom edge up 1/4 inch and press with an iron. Fold it up another 1/4 inch and press again. Sew close to the inner fold using a straight stitch, sewing all the way around. This creates a narrow, finished edge.

For a zigzag finish, sew a zigzag stitch along the bottom raw edge without folding. The zigzag stitches over the edge and prevents fraying. This method is faster and works especially well if you are using a sewing machine.

Try On and Adjust the Length

Before you finish the bottom edge, try on the petticoat to check the length. Put on the shoes and undergarments you plan to wear with the dress that will go over the petticoat. Have someone help you measure from the waistband to where you want the petticoat to end, or use a mirror and a measuring tape. The petticoat should be slightly shorter than the dress so it does not show at the hem.

If the length is not right, mark the new length with tailor's chalk or a fabric pencil, take off the petticoat, and trim the excess fabric. Then finish the bottom edge using one of the methods described above. If the petticoat is too short, you cannot add length without buying more fabric, so measure carefully before you cut.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

The most common mistake is not buying enough fabric. If your petticoat does not have enough width, it will not gather properly and will look flat instead of full. Remember to buy fabric that is at least twice your hip measurement in width.

Another mistake is making the casing too narrow. If the casing is less than 1.5 inches wide, the elastic will bunch and twist inside it. Make sure you fold the top edge down far enough to create a comfortable tunnel.

Sewing the casing closed before you thread the elastic is also a common error. Always leave a 2-inch opening so you can insert the elastic. If you forget and sew it completely closed, you will have to cut the seam open, thread the elastic, and sew it closed again.

Finally, do not skip washing the fabric before you start. Unwashed fabric may shrink after the first wash, making your finished petticoat shorter and tighter than you intended.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make a petticoat by hand without a sewing machine?

Yes. Use a running stitch for all the seams, which is a straightforward stitch where you push the needle in and out of the fabric in a straight line. A running stitch takes longer than a machine stitch but works just as well. Make your stitches as small and even as you can, about 1/8 inch apart. For the zigzag finish on the bottom edge, use a whip stitch or a zigzag stitch by hand instead.

What fabric works best for a petticoat?

Cotton, cotton blends, and lightweight linen are the most common choices because they are breathable and straightforward to sew. Avoid stretchy fabrics like spandex or jersey knit, which are harder to control. If you want extra stiffness or crispness, look for cotton with a slight sheen or a cotton-polyester blend labeled as "petticoat fabric" or "crinoline."

How do I make the petticoat fuller?

Buy fabric that is three times your hip measurement instead of two times. The extra width will gather more and create a fuller skirt. You can also add layers by sewing two or three petticoats together at the waistband, though this takes more time and fabric.

What if the elastic is too tight or too loose?

If the elastic is too tight, cut the seam at the waistband opening, remove the elastic, and replace it with a longer piece. If it is too loose, remove the elastic and replace it with a shorter piece. You do not have to start over; just open the casing seam, swap the elastic, and sew the opening closed again.

Can I add lace or trim to the bottom?

Yes. Before you finish the bottom edge, pin lace or trim to the right side of the fabric along the bottom edge. Sew it in place with a straight stitch, then fold the raw edge up and sew a rolled hem over the top of the trim. This hides the raw edge and secures the trim at the same time.