What you're making and why it works

A plastic bag holder is a fabric tube that hangs from a hook or cabinet knob and stores crumpled plastic bags inside. You pull bags out through an opening at the bottom. It takes about two hours to sew, uses fabric scraps you likely have, and solves the problem of bags tangled in a drawer or stuffed under the sink.

The design is straightforward: two rectangles of fabric sewn into a tube, with elastic at the top to cinch it closed and a hole at the bottom to pull bags through. Once you understand the basic steps, you can adjust the size to fit your space or use fabric that matches your kitchen.

Key Takeaways

  • A plastic bag holder is a fabric tube sewn from two rectangles, about 9 inches wide and 20 inches tall, with a drawstring casing at the top.
  • You need fabric, thread, elastic, a sewing machine, scissors, pins, and a measuring tape — most people have these already.
  • The main steps are cutting two rectangles, sewing them into a tube, adding a casing for elastic at the top, and cutting a hole at the bottom.
  • The entire project takes two to three hours, including time to press seams and attach elastic.

Materials and tools you need

Fabric: Two pieces of cotton fabric, each 9 inches wide and 20 inches tall. Quilting cotton, flannel, or any medium-weight fabric works. You can use two matching pieces or mix prints. If you don't have fabric scraps, a fat quarter (a pre-cut piece sold at fabric stores) gives you enough for two holders.

Elastic: One piece of 1/4-inch-wide elastic, about 7 inches long. This cinches the top closed. You can find elastic at any fabric store or online.

Thread: All-purpose thread in a color that matches or blends with your fabric.

Tools: A sewing machine, scissors (fabric scissors if you have them, regular scissors if not), pins, a measuring tape, and an iron. A safety pin helps thread the elastic through the casing, but a bobby pin or paperclip works too.

Cutting and preparing the fabric

Lay both fabric pieces flat and measure them to 9 inches wide and 20 inches tall. Mark the corners with a pen or chalk, then cut along the lines. You now have two rectangles. Press both pieces with an iron to remove wrinkles — this makes sewing straighter seams.

Place the two rectangles with the right sides facing each other (the pretty sides touching, the back sides facing out). Pin along three sides: the two long sides and one short side. Leave the other short side unpinned — this is where you'll turn the tube right-side-out later.

Sewing the tube and turning it right-side-out

Sew along the three pinned sides using a 1/2-inch seam allowance (the standard distance from the edge). Start at one corner, sew down the first long side, across the short side, and up the other long side. Backstitch at the beginning and end to lock the thread. Remove pins as you go.

Trim the corners diagonally, cutting away the fabric triangle at each corner without cutting the seam itself. This reduces bulk when you turn the tube right-side-out. Reach through the unpinned opening, grab the fabric inside, and pull the whole thing through. The right sides are now facing out and the seams are hidden inside.

Press the tube flat with an iron, paying attention to the seams. Fold the raw edges of the unpinned opening inward by 1/2 inch on each side and press them. Pin the opening closed.

Adding the elastic casing at the top

The casing is a channel of stitching that holds the elastic. Measure down 2 inches from the top of the tube and draw a light line all the way around with a pen or chalk. Sew along this line, going all the way around the tube. This creates a pocket between the line and the top edge.

Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic. Push the safety pin through the pocket you just created, feeding the elastic all the way around the inside. The safety pin guides the elastic through without bunching it. Once the elastic comes out the other side, overlap the two ends by 1/2 inch and sew them together with a few stitches by hand or machine.

Sew the opening at the top closed by stitching along the folded edge you pinned earlier. This seals the casing and keeps the elastic from sliding out.

Cutting the bottom opening and finishing

Lay the tube flat and measure up 3 inches from the bottom. Mark a circle about 2 inches across at that spot — this is where bags come out. You can draw it with chalk or a pen. Carefully cut along the circle with scissors. The hole doesn't need to be perfect; bags are forgiving.

If the cut edges fray, you can seal them by painting a thin line of fabric glue around the opening or by hand-stitching a whip stitch around the edge. Most people skip this step and the fraying stops on its own after a few washes.

Sew the pinned opening at the bottom closed using a ladder stitch (also called an invisible stitch) or a straightforward running stitch. A ladder stitch is neater but takes longer; a running stitch is faster and hidden inside the fold anyway.

Hanging and using your holder

Screw a hook into the wall, inside a cabinet, or on the side of a cabinet door. Slip the top loop of the holder over the hook. Stuff plastic bags inside through the top opening, then pull the elastic drawstring tight. Bags come out through the bottom hole as you need them.

The holder holds about 20 to 30 bags depending on how tightly you pack them. Wash it in cold water and hang it to dry when it gets dusty.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make this without a sewing machine?

Yes. Hand-sew all the seams using a running stitch or backstitch, which takes longer but works just as well. Use a needle and thread, and sew about 1/8 inch from the edge. The project takes four to five hours by hand instead of two.

What size should I make it if I want a bigger holder?

Cut rectangles 10 or 11 inches wide and 24 inches tall instead. The casing line stays 2 inches from the top, and the bottom hole stays 3 inches up from the bottom. Wider holders hold more bags but take up more space on your hook.

Can I use knit fabric or stretchy material?

Knit and stretchy fabrics work but are harder to sew straight because they move under the needle. If you want to use them, stabilize the fabric with a spray starch or interfacing before cutting. Cotton and quilting fabric are easier for a first project.

What if the elastic is too tight or too loose?

If it's too tight, remove a few stitches from the seam where the elastic ends overlap, pull out a bit of elastic, and re-sew. If it's too loose, do the same but push more elastic through. You only need the drawstring snug enough to keep bags from falling out.

Do I have to press the seams with an iron?

Pressing makes seams lie flat and sewing straighter, but it's not required. If you skip it, your holder will still work — it just might look slightly rumpled. An iron takes five minutes and makes a real difference in how finished it looks.