Start with a straightforward rectangular purse and a centered zipper

A basic zippered purse is two fabric rectangles sewn together with a zipper running across the top. You do not need a sewing machine—hand sewing works fine—but a machine makes the seams faster and stronger. The zipper goes in before you close the sides, which is the part that trips up most first-timers. If you sew the sides first, you trap yourself and cannot insert the zipper properly.

The simplest version uses a 7-inch zipper, two pieces of fabric cut to 8 inches wide by 6 inches tall, and basic thread that matches your fabric. You will also need a needle (size 70/10 for machine sewing, or a hand-sewing needle), pins, scissors, and a ruler. A zipper foot on your sewing machine makes the work easier but is not required.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut two identical fabric rectangles and pin the zipper face-down to the top edge of one piece before sewing anything else.
  • Sew the zipper to both fabric pieces along the top edge, then fold the fabric down so the zipper is sandwiched between the two layers.
  • Sew the three remaining sides closed with a 1/2-inch seam allowance, leaving a small opening at one corner if you want to turn the purse right-side out.
  • Backstitch at the start and end of every seam to lock the thread and prevent unraveling.
  • Test the zipper before you close the final seam, because fixing it afterward means cutting open your work.

Cut your fabric and prepare the zipper

Measure and cut two pieces of fabric to the same size. For a beginner purse, 8 inches wide by 6 inches tall is manageable. Use a ruler and a fabric pencil or chalk to mark the lines, then cut straight with sharp scissors. Fabric scissors cut better than kitchen scissors and are worth the small cost if you plan to sew more than once.

Lay one fabric piece flat in front of you with the right side (the pretty side) facing up. Place the zipper on top of it, also right-side up, so the zipper teeth run along the top edge of the fabric. The zipper should be centered left to right. Pin the zipper in place with three or four pins along the top edge. The zipper pull should point to the right.

Attach the zipper to the first fabric piece

Thread your needle or load your sewing machine. If you are using a machine, attach the zipper foot if you have one—it lets you sew closer to the zipper teeth without hitting them. If you do not have a zipper foot, use your regular presser foot and sew about 1/4 inch away from the teeth.

Sew along the top edge of the zipper, starting at the left end and moving toward the right. Backstitch at the start (sew backward three or four stitches, then forward) to lock the thread. Sew in a straight line about 1/8 inch below the zipper tape—the fabric strip the teeth are attached to. When you reach the right end, backstitch again to lock. Remove the pins as you go.

Your first fabric piece now has the zipper sewn to its top edge. The zipper is still right-side up, and the fabric hangs down from it.

Attach the zipper to the second fabric piece

Lay the second fabric piece right-side up on your work surface. Flip the zipper over so it is now face-down on top of this second piece, with the zipper teeth pointing downward into the fabric. The two fabric pieces are now on opposite sides of the zipper, and the zipper is sandwiched between them. Pin the zipper to the second fabric piece along the same edge.

Sew along the zipper tape on this side, using the same backstitch-start, straight line, backstitch-end method. You are now sewing through the zipper tape, the second fabric piece, and the first fabric piece is on the other side. Sew about 1/8 inch from the zipper teeth, the same distance as the first seam. When you finish, you have a sandwich: fabric, zipper, fabric, all sewn together along the top.

Fold and sew the sides closed

Fold the two fabric pieces so they are right-sides together and the zipper is now on the inside, running horizontally between them. The zipper should be at the top of the purse. Pin the left side, the right side, and the bottom together. Leave the top edge alone—the zipper is already sewn there.

Sew the left side with a 1/2-inch seam allowance (measure 1/2 inch from the edge and sew along that line). Backstitch at the start and end. Sew the right side the same way. For the bottom, sew most of the way across but stop about 2 inches from the end and leave a 2-inch opening. This opening lets you turn the purse right-side out later. Backstitch before and after the opening.

Turn the purse right-side out and close the opening

Reach through the 2-inch opening at the bottom and pull the purse inside-out through the hole. The right side of the fabric is now facing outward, and the seams are hidden on the inside. The zipper is at the top, running left to right. Press the purse flat with your hands or an iron set to low heat if your fabric can handle it.

Fold the raw edges of the 2-inch opening inward by 1/2 inch and pin them closed. Hand-sew the opening shut using a ladder stitch (also called an invisible stitch): bring your needle up through one folded edge, across into the opposite folded edge, and back out. Move forward about 1/4 inch and repeat. The stitches disappear into the fold. When the opening is closed, your purse is complete.

Test the zipper and fix common problems

Open and close the zipper several times before you consider the purse finished. The zipper should glide smoothly without catching fabric. If it catches, stop when ready and gently work the zipper back and forth to free the fabric. Do not force it or you may break the zipper.

If the zipper is stiff, rub a pencil lead along the teeth a few times. The graphite lubricates the metal. If the zipper pull comes off, you can slide it back on from the side—the pull does not have to be removed to insert it. If the zipper is twisted or bunched, you may have sewn it crooked. Unpick the seam with a seam ripper (a small tool with a curved blade), straighten the zipper, and sew again. This is why testing before closing the final seam matters.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a longer zipper than my fabric is wide?

Yes. A 9-inch zipper on an 8-inch-wide purse is fine—the extra length just hangs off the sides. Trim the zipper tape (not the teeth) after you sew it if the excess bothers you. Use scissors or a seam ripper to carefully cut the fabric tape at each end, leaving about 1/2 inch of tape beyond the fabric edge so the zipper does not unravel.

What if my zipper is upside down after I fold the purse?

You sewed it backward. Unpick both seams with a seam ripper, flip the zipper over, and sew again. It is frustrating but fixable. The zipper pull should point upward when the purse is right-side out and closed.

Do I have to leave an opening to turn it right-side out?

No, but it is the easiest way. If you sew all four sides closed, you have to turn the purse through the zipper opening, which is tight and risks damaging the zipper. A 2-inch opening at the bottom is much safer and the ladder stitch closes it invisibly.

What fabric works best for a first purse?

Cotton quilting fabric or canvas is forgiving and straightforward to sew. Avoid stretchy knits and slippery fabrics like satin until you have made a few purses. Thicker fabric (canvas, denim) needs a stronger needle and thread but holds its shape better than thin cotton.

Can I sew a zipper by hand instead of with a machine?

Yes. Use a backstitch along the zipper tape, keeping your stitches small and even (about 1/8 inch apart). It takes longer than machine sewing but produces the same result. Hand sewing is actually easier to control around the zipper teeth because you can stop and adjust as you go.