What you need to make a quilted bag
A quilted bag is a structured tote or shoulder bag with a padded interior made from three layers: an outer fabric, batting (the padding), and a lining. You sew these layers together in a quilted pattern, then assemble them into a finished bag. The quilting holds everything in place and gives the bag its shape and durability.
Before you start, gather these materials: two pieces of outer fabric (usually cotton or canvas, each about 16 by 20 inches for a standard tote), two pieces of lining fabric the same size, one piece of batting the same size, thread that matches your outer fabric, and two bag handles (either purchased or made from fabric strips). You will also need a sewing machine, a rotary cutter or scissors, a quilting ruler, pins, and an iron.
The batting is the key difference between a quilted bag and a regular one. It is a thin, fluffy layer sold in fabric stores by the yard or in pre-cut packages. Cotton batting is easiest for beginners because it does not shift as much as polyester during sewing.
Key Takeaways
- Quilting means sewing through three layers (outer fabric, batting, lining) in a pattern that holds them together and prevents the batting from bunching.
- You quilt the outer fabric and batting together before assembling the bag, using straight lines, grids, or straightforward curved patterns.
- The lining is sewn separately and then inserted into the bag shell so seams stay hidden inside.
- Handles are attached between the outer fabric and lining at the top seam, so they are anchored securely and stitching is concealed.
- A basic quilted tote takes four to six hours for a first-time sewer, including cutting, quilting, assembly, and finishing.
Prepare and layer your fabric for quilting
Start by cutting your pieces to size. Cut two rectangles of outer fabric, two of lining, and one of batting, all 16 by 20 inches. Press all fabric pieces with an iron to remove wrinkles—this makes them lie flat and easier to work with.
Now layer the three pieces for quilting. Place one piece of outer fabric wrong-side up on a flat surface. Lay the batting on top of it, then place the second piece of outer fabric right-side up on top of the batting. You now have a sandwich: outer fabric (right side down), batting, outer fabric (right side up). Smooth out any wrinkles or bubbles by hand.
Pin the three layers together using safety pins or quilting pins spaced about 4 inches apart across the entire surface. These pins hold the layers in place while you sew and prevent the batting from shifting. Do not use regular sewing pins—they are too small and will not hold the layers securely enough.
Quilt the three layers together
Quilting is straightforward sewing straight lines or patterns through all three layers. This stitching holds the batting in place so it does not bunch or shift when the bag is used. The simplest pattern for a beginner is a grid of straight lines spaced 2 inches apart in both directions.
Thread your sewing machine with thread that matches your outer fabric. Use a walking foot if your machine has one—it feeds all three layers evenly and prevents puckering. Start at one corner and sew a straight line from top to bottom, about 2 inches from the edge. Backstitch at the beginning and end to lock the thread. Remove the pins as you approach them.
Continue sewing parallel lines 2 inches apart until you have covered the entire piece. Then sew horizontal lines 2 inches apart in the other direction, creating a grid. This takes time but is straightforward—you are straightforward sewing many straight lines. Once all lines are sewn, remove any remaining pins and trim the quilted piece to exactly 16 by 20 inches using a rotary cutter and ruler.
Assemble the bag shell and attach handles
Now you have a quilted rectangle. Fold it in half with right sides together so it measures 8 by 20 inches. Pin the two side seams. Sew down each side using a half-inch seam allowance, backstitching at the start and end. You now have a tube with an open top and a seam running up each side.
Before you close the top, attach the handles. If you are using purchased handles, position them on the inside of the bag, centered on each side, with the handle ends pointing downward into the bag. Pin them in place. If you are making handles from fabric, cut two strips 3 inches wide and 20 inches long, fold them in half lengthwise with right sides together, sew the long edge, turn right-side out, and press flat. Then pin them the same way.
The handles will be sewn in place when you attach the lining, so leave them pinned for now.
Sew and insert the lining
Take your two lining pieces and place them right sides together. Sew down both side seams using a half-inch seam allowance, just as you did with the quilted outer fabric. This creates a lining tube. Do not turn it right-side out yet.
Now insert the lining into the bag shell. With the bag shell still inside-out, slide the lining tube inside it so the right sides of the lining and outer fabric are facing each other. The handles should be sandwiched between the two layers. Align the top edges and pin them together all the way around.
Sew around the top opening using a half-inch seam allowance, backstitching at the start and end. Leave a 4-inch gap on one side—this is your turning hole. Sew all the way around except for that 4-inch opening.
Turn the bag right-side out and close the opening
Reach through the 4-inch gap and grab the bottom of the bag shell. Pull the entire bag through the opening so it turns right-side out. The handles should now be on the outside, anchored securely between the layers. Smooth out the seams and corners with your fingers.
Press the top edge of the bag with an iron, paying special attention to the seam. Fold the raw edges of the 4-inch gap inward by half an inch and press them flat. Pin the opening closed.
Sew the opening shut using a ladder stitch (also called an invisible stitch) or a straightforward straight stitch close to the edge. A ladder stitch is harder but creates an invisible seam; a straight stitch is visible but faster. If you choose a straight stitch, sew about a quarter-inch from the folded edge all the way around the top of the bag. This also serves as a topstitch that reinforces the seam and looks intentional.
Reinforce seams and finish the bag
The stress points on a quilted bag are the side seams and the handle attachment. Sew over these seams a second time to strengthen them. Run a line of stitching about a quarter-inch away from the original seam on the inside of the bag, or topstitch along the outside if you prefer the look.
At the base of each handle, sew a small rectangle or X shape through all layers to anchor the handle firmly. This prevents the handle from tearing away from the bag with use. Backstitch several times at the start and end of this reinforcement stitching.
Press the finished bag one more time with an iron. The quilting pattern should be visible on the outside, the lining should be smooth on the inside, and the handles should feel find. Your quilted bag is now ready to use.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a different quilting pattern instead of a grid?
Yes. Diagonal lines, wavy lines, or concentric squares all work well. The pattern you choose is mostly about appearance—any quilting pattern that covers the entire surface will hold the batting in place. Practice on scrap fabric first if you are trying a curved or diagonal pattern.
What if my batting shifts while I'm quilting?
This usually means the pins are spaced too far apart or the layers were not smoothed flat before pinning. Stop, remove the pins, smooth the layers again, and re-pin more closely (every 3 inches instead of 4). A walking foot on your sewing machine also helps prevent shifting.
Do I have to use a walking foot?
No, but it makes quilting much easier, especially for a beginner. If your machine does not have one, sew slowly and use your hands to gently guide the fabric. Some machines allow you to lower the presser foot to help feed the layers evenly.
How do I make fabric handles instead of buying them?
Cut two strips of fabric 3 inches wide and 20 inches long. Place them right sides together, sew down the long edge with a quarter-inch seam, and turn them right-side out using a safety pin or bodkin threaded through the tube. Press flat and sew them into the bag the same way as purchased handles.
Can I make a smaller or larger bag?
Yes. Scale all the measurements proportionally. For a smaller bag, use 12 by 16 inch pieces instead of 16 by 20. For a larger bag, use 18 by 24 inches. Adjust handle length to match—longer bags usually need longer handles.