A reading pillow is a wedge-shaped cushion you prop behind your back or under your arms while sitting in bed or on a chair

The basic design is two rectangular pieces of fabric sewn together with batting or fiberfill stuffed inside, then angled so one end sits higher than the other. You can make one in an afternoon with a sewing machine, a needle and thread, or by hand if you prefer. The whole project costs between five and fifteen dollars in materials if you use fabric you already have.

A reading pillow works because it holds you at a comfortable angle without requiring you to prop yourself up with your hands. The wedge shape means the stuffing naturally compresses toward the lower end, creating the slope. You can customize the angle, size, and fabric to match what you actually need—taller if you read in bed, smaller if you want something portable for a chair.

Key Takeaways

  • A reading pillow is made from two fabric rectangles sewn together, stuffed with fiberfill, and angled so one end is higher than the other.
  • You need fabric, fiberfill or batting, thread, a needle or sewing machine, scissors, and a measuring tape—most people have these at home.
  • The standard size is roughly 24 inches wide by 20 inches tall, but you can adjust based on whether you use it in bed or on a chair.
  • Sewing the seams takes about 30 to 45 minutes by machine or 1 to 2 hours by hand, then stuffing and closing takes another 15 to 30 minutes.
  • The angled shape comes from how you stuff it and position it, not from cutting the fabric at an angle.

What you need before you start

Gather two pieces of fabric, each roughly 24 inches by 20 inches. Cotton quilting fabric, old sheets, or upholstery scraps all work. If you do not have fabric at home, a fabric store sells quarter-yard cuts for three to eight dollars. You need two pieces so you have a front and a back.

You also need fiberfill stuffing (sold in bags at fabric stores for two to five dollars) or old batting from another project. A spool of thread that matches your fabric, scissors that cut fabric cleanly, a measuring tape, and either a sewing machine or a needle. A sewing machine makes the work faster and the seams stronger, but hand sewing works fine if that is what you have.

Optional but useful: pins to hold the fabric pieces together while you sew, a seam ripper in case you need to undo a line of stitching, and a ladder stitch needle if you plan to close the opening by hand (a regular needle works too, but a ladder stitch needle is easier).

How to cut and prepare your fabric pieces

Lay both fabric pieces on a flat surface and measure them to the same size. The standard reading pillow is 24 inches wide and 20 inches tall, but you can adjust: make it wider if you want more arm support, or smaller (18 by 16 inches) if you plan to carry it between rooms. Write the measurements on the fabric with a pen or chalk, then cut along the lines with scissors.

Place the two pieces on top of each other with the right sides facing each other (the pretty side of the fabric touching the pretty side, not the back sides). This matters because when you turn the pillow right-side-out later, the seams will be hidden inside. Pin the edges together if you have pins, or just hold them steady as you sew.

Sewing the seams on three sides

You will sew three sides closed and leave one side open for stuffing. Most people leave the bottom edge open because it is easiest to stuff from there. Sew about half an inch from the edge—this is called the seam allowance and it gives the stitches room to hold without tearing the fabric.

If you are using a sewing machine, set it to a straight stitch and sew slowly along the three sides. Start at one corner, sew down the left side, across the top, and down the right side, then stop. If you are sewing by hand, use a running stitch (in and out, in and out) or a backstitch (which is stronger). Either way, keep your stitches small and even—about one-eighth inch apart.

When you reach a corner, stop with the needle in the fabric, lift the presser foot (if using a machine), turn the fabric 90 degrees, lower the foot, and continue. This creates a neat corner instead of a rounded one. Tie off your thread at the end with a knot on the inside.

Turning the pillow right-side-out and stuffing it

Reach through the open bottom edge and pull the fabric inside-out so the right sides now face outward. Use your fingers to push the corners out so they are sharp and square, not rounded. This is easier if you use a blunt tool like a wooden spoon handle, but your fingers work.

Stuff the pillow with fiberfill a handful at a time. Start at the corners and work toward the center, packing it firmly but not so tight that the fabric stretches or tears. A reading pillow should feel solid but still slightly compressible—if you squeeze it, your hand should sink in a little. Most pillows need between two and four cups of fiberfill depending on size.

Closing the opening with a ladder stitch

Fold the raw edges of the opening inward about half an inch and pin them closed, or just hold them as you sew. Thread your needle and tie a knot at the end. Bring the needle up through the fold on one side of the opening, then slide it horizontally inside the fold for about half an inch, then come back out. Go across to the opposite side and repeat—slide the needle inside the fold, come out, then go back to the first side.

This stitch (called a ladder stitch or whip stitch) hides inside the fold, so the seam becomes nearly invisible. Work slowly and keep your stitches small. When you reach the end of the opening, tie off the thread inside the pillow so the knot does not show.

If you prefer, you can sew the opening closed with a regular running stitch or backstitch instead. It will be visible on the outside, but it is faster and just as functional.

How the wedge shape forms when you use it

The pillow does not need to be cut at an angle—the wedge shape comes from how the stuffing settles and how you position it. When you lean the pillow against a wall or the headboard, the weight of your back compresses the stuffing at the bottom, and the top stays fluffier and higher. This creates the slope naturally.

If you want a more pronounced angle, stuff the bottom half more firmly than the top half. Or, after the pillow is finished, you can adjust how it sits by moving it around until the angle feels right for reading. Some people prop it at 45 degrees, others prefer a gentler slope—it depends on your comfort.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make a reading pillow without a sewing machine?

Yes. Hand sewing takes longer—usually 1 to 2 hours instead of 30 to 45 minutes—but the result is the same. Use a backstitch for strength, keep your stitches small and even, and take breaks if your hand gets tired. A thimble protects your finger when you push the needle through thick fabric.

What fabric works best for a reading pillow?

Cotton quilting fabric and old sheets are ideal because they are soft, durable, and straightforward to sew. Upholstery fabric and canvas work too but are stiffer. Avoid stretchy fabrics like knit or jersey unless you reinforce the seams, because they can tear under the weight of the stuffing.

How do I make the pillow washable?

Use a removable cover: sew an outer cover the same way as the pillow, but do not stuff it. Instead, slide the finished stuffed pillow inside and close the opening with a ladder stitch. You can then unzip or unsew the cover to wash it separately. Alternatively, use fabric that can go in the washing machine and accept that the pillow will need hand washing or a gentle cycle.

What if my stitches are uneven or I made a mistake?

Uneven stitches do not affect how the pillow works—they only show if you leave the seams visible. If you made a real mistake (like sewing the opening closed before stuffing), use a seam ripper to cut the thread and pull it out, then resew. Seam rippers are cheap and make this task much faster than picking out thread by hand.

Can I add pockets or a handle to my reading pillow?

Yes. Sew a small pocket to the front before you close the three sides—it is useful for holding a bookmark or glasses. For a handle, sew a loop of fabric or ribbon to the top corners before stuffing. Both additions take only a few extra minutes and make the pillow more practical.