What You'll Make and Why It Works
A reusable grocery bag is a flat-bottomed tote with two handles, made from two pieces of fabric sewn together. The finished bag holds about as much as a plastic grocery bag but lasts for years. You'll use a sewing machine, basic stitches, and fabric you probably have at home—old sheets, canvas, or cotton quilting fabric all work well.
The bag takes two to three hours from cutting to the final stitch, including drying time if you add a bottom reinforcement. No pattern is required; you measure and cut as you go. The only tricky part is sewing the corners square so the bag sits flat, and we'll walk through that step by step.
Key Takeaways
- Cut two rectangles of fabric roughly 17 inches wide by 15 inches tall, plus two strips for handles about 3 inches wide and 20 inches long.
- Sew the two main pieces together on three sides with a half-inch seam allowance, leaving the top open, then turn the bag right-side out through that opening.
- Fold the top edge down a half inch on both the inside and outside, press it flat, and sew it closed all the way around to seal the bag and finish the handles at the same time.
- Reinforce the bottom corners by sewing a small square at each corner before you turn the bag right-side out, so the bag holds its shape when full.
- Wash the finished bag in warm water and dry it flat or hanging; the stitches will tighten as the fabric shrinks slightly.
Gather Your Fabric and Tools
You need two pieces of fabric, each roughly 17 inches wide by 15 inches tall. Cotton sheets, canvas, or quilting cotton work best because they hold their shape and don't fray badly. Avoid stretchy knits or very thin fabrics—they won't support the weight of groceries. If you're using an old sheet, wash and dry it first so it won't shrink after you sew.
For handles, cut two strips from the same fabric, each about 3 inches wide and 20 inches long. If your fabric isn't wide enough, you can piece two shorter strips together with a seam, or use bias tape or ribbon instead. Bias tape is faster but optional.
Set up your sewing machine with all-purpose thread in a color that matches or complements your fabric. Use a size 80/12 or 90/14 needle—standard sizes for cotton. Have a ruler, scissors, pins, and an iron ready. You'll also need a seam ripper in case you need to undo a seam.
Cut and Prepare the Pieces
Lay your first piece of fabric on a flat surface and measure out a rectangle 17 inches wide by 15 inches tall. Use a ruler and a fabric pencil or chalk to mark the corners lightly. Cut along the lines with sharp fabric scissors. Repeat for the second piece. Both pieces should be exactly the same size.
Now cut your handle strips. Each strip should be 3 inches wide and 20 inches long. If you're using bias tape instead, you'll skip this step and attach the tape later. Fold each handle strip in half lengthwise with the right sides facing each other, and sew along the long edge with a quarter-inch seam allowance. Turn each handle right-side out by pulling one end through the tube—this takes patience but gets easier with practice. Press the handles flat with an iron so the seam runs down the middle of one side.
Pin the two handles to the right side of one fabric rectangle, positioning them about 4 inches in from each side and with the raw edges aligned with the top edge of the rectangle. The handles should point downward into the rectangle at this stage. Sew them down with a quarter-inch seam, stitching back and forth a few times to make them find.
Sew the Bag Body Together
Place your two fabric rectangles with the right sides facing each other—the pretty sides should be touching. The handles are now sandwiched between the layers. Pin around three sides, leaving the top edge unpinned. This top edge is where you'll turn the bag right-side out later.
Sew along the three pinned sides with a half-inch seam allowance. Start at one top corner, sew down the left side, across the bottom, and up the right side, stopping at the top corner. Backstitch at the beginning and end to lock the thread. Leave the top edge completely open.
Before you turn the bag right-side out, reinforce the bottom corners. At each bottom corner, measure 2 inches up from the corner along the side seam and 2 inches in from the corner along the bottom seam. Draw a small square connecting these points—roughly 2 inches by 2 inches. Sew along this square with a tight stitch, then trim the corner fabric away, leaving a quarter inch of seam allowance. This step keeps the bag from collapsing when it's full.
Turn and Finish the Top Edge
Reach into the bag through the open top and grab the bottom corner from the inside. Pull the entire bag through the opening, turning it right-side out. Use a chopstick or the blunt end of a seam ripper to push the corners out from the inside so they're sharp and square. Press the whole bag flat with an iron, paying special attention to the seams.
Fold the raw edges at the top opening inward by half an inch on both the inside and outside of the bag. Press this fold flat with an iron. Pin all the way around the top edge, keeping the fold even. Sew around the entire top edge with a quarter-inch seam allowance, stitching through all layers. This seam closes the opening, finishes the raw edges, and locks the handles in place at the same time. Backstitch at the beginning and end.
For extra durability, sew a second line of stitching a quarter inch below the first one, all the way around the top. This double row of stitching is where the handles attach, and it bears the most stress when you carry groceries.
Reinforce the Seams and Test the Bag
Look at the bottom seams where the side seams meet the bottom seam. These corners take the most weight. If you want the bag to last through years of use, sew a small triangle or square at each corner on the inside, stitching from the side seam to the bottom seam. This distributes the stress and prevents the seams from tearing.
Wash the finished bag in warm water with mild detergent and dry it flat or hanging. The fabric will shrink slightly and the stitches will tighten, making the bag stronger. Once it's dry, fill it with groceries and test the handles. They should feel find and not twist or slip.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
The most common mistake is sewing the handles on upside down or backward. Before you pin them, lay them out on the fabric and make sure they point downward into the rectangle, not outward. The raw edges should line up exactly with the top edge of the fabric.
Another mistake is not reinforcing the bottom corners. A bag without corner reinforcement will collapse or tear at the corners after a few uses. The small square you sew at each corner takes two minutes and adds years to the bag's life.
Uneven seam allowance is also common. Measure your half-inch seam allowance before you start, and use the edge of your presser foot as a guide—most presser feet are exactly half an inch wide. Sew slowly and keep the fabric edge aligned with the foot edge the whole way.
Finally, don't skip pressing. An iron makes the difference between a bag that looks homemade and one that looks finished. Press after you sew each seam, and press the final bag flat before you use it.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a thinner fabric like cotton print or quilting cotton?
Yes, quilting cotton works well and is actually ideal for grocery bags because it's sturdy and comes in many colors. Avoid very thin fabrics like voile or lawn—they won't support heavy groceries. If your fabric feels thin, you can sew two layers together before you start, or add a layer of interfacing to the bottom and sides.
What if I don't have a sewing machine?
You can hand-sew a bag, but it takes much longer—four to six hours instead of two to three. Use a backstitch, which is the strongest hand-sewing stitch. Sew with doubled thread and take small, even stitches. The seams won't be as tight as machine stitches, so reinforce the corners and handles extra well.
How do I make the handles longer or shorter?
Cut the handle strips to whatever length you need. A 20-inch strip makes handles about 9 inches long when finished, which fits most shoulders. For shorter handles, cut 16-inch strips. For longer handles that fit over a winter coat, cut 24-inch strips. Just remember that longer handles use more fabric and take longer to sew.
Can I add a pocket or lining to the inside?
Yes, but it adds complexity. Sew a pocket to one of the fabric rectangles before you sew the two rectangles together. For a full lining, cut two more rectangles the same size, sew them together, and insert the lining before you sew the outer bag closed. Both options add an hour to the project.
Will the bag hold up in the washing machine?
Yes, wash it on a gentle cycle in warm water. Dry it flat or hanging—don't put it in the dryer, because high heat can weaken the thread. The bag will last longer if you wash it by hand, but machine washing works fine if you use a gentle setting.