What You Need to Sew a Sailor Hat
A sailor hat is a flat-topped, wide-brimmed hat with a stiff crown and a structured brim. You can make one by hand using cotton fabric, interfacing, and basic stitching — no special equipment required. The finished hat takes about three to four hours from cutting to the final seam, and the result is a hat that holds its shape and fits snugly on the head.
Gather these materials before you start: one yard of cotton fabric (quilting cotton or canvas works well), one yard of medium-weight interfacing, thread that matches your fabric, a needle or sewing machine, scissors, a measuring tape, pins, and a pencil or fabric marker. You will also need a pattern. You can read a free sailor hat pattern from sites like Etsy or Craftsy, or trace one from a sewing book. The pattern will give you the exact pieces you need: a crown (usually two pieces), a brim (usually two pieces), and sometimes a band that goes around the base.
Key Takeaways
- Cut two crown pieces and two brim pieces from your fabric, plus matching pieces from interfacing to give the hat structure and hold its shape.
- Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of one crown piece and one brim piece using a hot iron, following the interfacing package instructions for heat and time.
- Sew the two crown pieces together with right sides facing, leaving the bottom edge open, then turn it right-side out and press flat.
- Attach the brim to the crown by sewing around the bottom edge with right sides together, then turn and topstitch for a finished look.
- Hand-stitch or machine-stitch a bias tape or fabric band around the inside edge where the brim meets the crown to hide raw seams and add comfort.
Prepare Your Fabric and Interfacing
Start by washing and drying your fabric if it is new, because cotton shrinks slightly and you want the finished hat to fit the same way after washing. Press the fabric flat with an iron to remove wrinkles, then lay out your pattern pieces on the fabric. Pin the pattern to the fabric and cut carefully along the lines using sharp scissors. You should have two crown pieces and two brim pieces. Mark the grain line (the direction the fabric runs) on each piece with a pencil so you remember which way they go.
Cut matching pieces from your interfacing. Interfacing is a stiff backing that gives the hat its shape. Medium-weight interfacing works best for a sailor hat because it is firm enough to hold the brim flat but not so stiff that it is uncomfortable to wear. Cut one interfacing crown and one interfacing brim. You do not need interfacing on both pieces — only one of each, which you will fuse to the wrong side (the back) of one fabric piece.
Fuse the interfacing to the fabric using a hot iron. Lay the fabric wrong-side up on your ironing board, place the interfacing on top with its adhesive side down (check the package to see which side is adhesive), and press with a hot iron for the time listed on the package — usually 10 to 15 seconds. Do not slide the iron; press straight down and lift. Let the fused pieces cool before moving them.
Sew the Crown Pieces Together
Place the two crown pieces with right sides facing (the pretty sides touching) and pin around the curved edges, leaving the bottom edge open. The bottom edge is where the crown will attach to the brim. Sew around the pinned edges using a running stitch by hand (in and out of the fabric in a steady rhythm) or a straight stitch on a machine, staying about one-quarter inch from the edge. Backstitch at the start and end to lock the thread.
Trim the seam allowance (the fabric between your stitching and the edge) to one-eighth inch using scissors. This reduces bulk so the hat does not feel thick. Clip small notches into the curved seam allowance — cut small V-shapes into the fabric without cutting your stitches. This helps the fabric curve smoothly when you turn it right-side out.
Turn the crown right-side out through the open bottom edge by reaching in and pulling the fabric through. Use a blunt tool like a wooden spoon handle to gently push the curved top out from the inside. Press the crown flat with an iron, paying attention to the seams so they lie flat and even. The crown should now be a smooth, rounded shape.
Attach the Brim to the Crown
Place the two brim pieces with right sides facing and pin around the outer curved edge, leaving the inner curved edge (the part that attaches to the crown) open. Sew around the outer edge with a running stitch or straight stitch, staying one-quarter inch from the edge. Backstitch at the start and end. Trim the seam allowance to one-eighth inch and clip notches into the curve, just as you did with the crown.
Turn the brim right-side out and press it flat. The brim should now be a flat, curved piece with one open edge. Pin the open edge of the brim to the open edge of the crown, with right sides facing. The interfaced side of the brim should face the interfaced side of the crown. Sew all the way around using a running stitch or straight stitch, staying one-quarter inch from the edge. Backstitch at the start and end.
Turn the entire hat right-side out through any remaining opening. If you have sewn the brim and crown together completely, you will need to carefully open a small seam (about two inches) on the inside band area, turn the hat through that opening, and then hand-stitch it closed. Press the hat flat, paying special attention to the seam where the brim meets the crown so it lies smooth and even.
Topstitch for a Finished Look
Topstitching is a row of stitching on the outside of the fabric that both strengthens the seam and looks polished. Place the hat on your ironing board with the seam where the brim meets the crown facing up. Using a needle and thread or a sewing machine, stitch one-quarter inch away from that seam, all the way around the hat. This holds the layers in place and creates a professional-looking line.
If you are using a sewing machine, use a straight stitch and a thread color that matches your fabric. If you are hand-stitching, use a backstitch, which is stronger than a running stitch: bring the needle up through the fabric, go back one-quarter inch, and come up one-quarter inch ahead, then repeat. Keep your stitches small and even, about one-eighth inch long.
Add a Bias Tape Band Inside the Hat
The inside of the hat where the brim meets the crown will have raw fabric edges that can feel scratchy. Cover these edges with bias tape, which is a strip of fabric cut on the bias (at a 45-degree angle to the grain) so it stretches and curves smoothly. You can buy pre-made bias tape in the fabric store, or cut your own from leftover fabric.
Pin the bias tape around the inside seam where the brim meets the crown, covering the raw edges. Hand-stitch the bias tape in place using a whip stitch: bring the needle up through the fold of the bias tape, then down through just one or two threads of the hat fabric, then back up through the bias tape fold. Repeat all the way around. The stitches should be small and nearly invisible. Alternatively, you can machine-stitch the bias tape using a straight stitch, which is faster but slightly less invisible.
Check the Fit and Make Adjustments
Try the hat on and check that it sits level on your head and does not slide forward or backward. The brim should be flat and even all the way around. If the hat is too loose, you can add an elastic band inside the back, or take in the seam where the crown meets the brim by one-quarter inch and re-sew. If the hat is too tight, you can let out the seam slightly, but only if you have enough seam allowance to work with.
Check that all seams are find and no threads are loose. If you see any gaps or loose stitches, go back and reinforce them with a few extra stitches. Once you are satisfied with the fit and finish, your sailor hat is complete and ready to wear.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a sewing machine instead of hand-stitching?
Yes. A sewing machine is faster and produces stronger seams. Use a straight stitch and matching thread. Backstitch at the start and end of each seam to lock the thread. Hand-stitching takes longer but gives you more control and is easier to fix if you make a mistake.
What fabric works best for a sailor hat?
Cotton quilting cotton, canvas, or linen all work well because they hold their shape and are straightforward to sew. Avoid stretchy fabrics like knit or jersey, which will not hold the hat's structure. Avoid very thin fabrics like voile, which will not be stiff enough even with interfacing.
How do I make the brim stiffer?
Use a heavier interfacing, such as heavy-weight or craft interfacing. You can also fuse interfacing to both brim pieces instead of just one. If you want the brim very stiff, you can insert a thin plastic or millinery wire into the seam allowance before sewing the brim closed.
What size should the hat be?
Measure around your head just above your ears with a soft measuring tape. Most sailor hat patterns come in sizes small (20 to 21 inches), medium (21 to 22 inches), and large (22 to 23 inches). Check the pattern envelope before you buy fabric to make sure you are cutting the right size.
Can I add a chin strap to the hat?
Yes. Cut a strip of fabric about one inch wide and long enough to fit under your chin comfortably. Fold it in half lengthwise and sew the long edge closed, then turn it right-side out and press. Hand-stitch one end to the inside of the brim on one side and the other end to the inside of the brim on the other side, positioning them so the strap sits under your chin when the hat is on your head.