A sarong is a tube of fabric sewn at the seams, then hemmed and finished at the top

A sarong is one of the simplest garments to sew because it has no armholes, no neckline, and no fitted pieces. You are making a tube: two pieces of fabric sewn together at the side seams, with a casing at the top to hold elastic or a drawstring. The bottom and top edges are hemmed. That is the entire garment. Most sarongs take four to six hours from cutting to finished hem, and you need only a sewing machine, thread, scissors, elastic or cord, and fabric.

The finished sarong wraps around your body and stays up because of the elastic or drawstring at the waist. The length should reach from your underarm to your ankle, or from your hip to your ankle if you prefer it lower. The width, when laid flat, should be roughly your hip measurement plus 2 to 4 inches for overlap and seam allowance.

Key Takeaways

  • Measure your hip circumference and desired length, then add 1 inch to the width for seam allowance and 2 to 3 inches for overlap at the wrap point.
  • Cut two identical rectangles of fabric, sew them together at both long sides with a half-inch seam allowance, and press the seams flat.
  • Fold the top edge down half an inch, press, fold down again by the width of your elastic (usually 1 to 1.5 inches), and sew close to the bottom fold to create the casing.
  • Thread elastic through the casing using a safety pin, overlap the elastic ends by half an inch, sew them together, and stitch the casing opening closed.
  • Fold the bottom edge up half an inch, press, fold up again by half an inch, and sew close to the inner fold to finish the hem.

Measure your body and calculate the fabric size you need

Wrap a soft measuring tape around the fullest part of your hip while wearing the undergarments you will wear under the sarong. Write down this number—this is your hip circumference. Measure from your underarm down to your ankle, or from your hip to your ankle if you prefer the sarong to sit lower. This is your desired length.

The fabric width should equal your hip circumference plus 3 to 4 inches. The extra inches account for the half-inch seam allowance on each side (1 inch total) and 2 to 3 inches of overlap where the two ends of the wrapped sarong meet. The fabric length should equal your desired garment length plus 1 inch for hemming top and bottom (half an inch on each end).

For example: if your hip is 36 inches and you want the sarong to reach your ankle at 42 inches, you need fabric that is 40 inches wide and 43 inches long. You will cut two rectangles of this size.

Cut two identical rectangles and sew the side seams

Lay your fabric on a flat surface and measure out your two rectangles using a ruler and fabric pencil or chalk. Mark the corners clearly. Cut along the lines using fabric scissors or a rotary cutter. Both rectangles must be exactly the same size.

Place the two rectangles with the right sides (the pretty sides) facing each other. Pin along both long edges. Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.5 to 3 millimeters. Sew down one long side with a half-inch seam allowance, remove the pins as you go, and backstitch at the start and end. Sew down the other long side the same way. You now have a tube of fabric.

Turn the tube right-side out through one of the open ends. Press both seams flat with an iron set to the heat appropriate for your fabric. The seams should lie smooth against the inside of the tube.

Create the casing for the elastic at the top

The casing is a tunnel of fabric at the top of the sarong that holds the elastic. Fold the top raw edge of the tube down toward the inside by half an inch and press with the iron. Fold it down again by the width of your elastic—usually 1 to 1.5 inches—and press again. This second fold creates the casing.

Pin the folded edge in place all the way around. Sew close to the bottom fold of the casing, removing pins as you go. Backstitch at the start and end. Leave a 2-inch opening unsewn so you can thread the elastic through later. Sew all the way around, stop 2 inches before you reach your starting point, and backstitch.

Thread elastic through the casing and find it

Measure your hip circumference and subtract 2 inches. Cut a piece of elastic (usually 1 to 1.5 inches wide) to this length. Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic. Feed the safety pin into the opening you left in the casing and push it through the tunnel, gathering the fabric as it goes. The safety pin will emerge from the same opening.

Pull the elastic all the way through so both ends stick out of the opening. Overlap the two ends by half an inch and pin them together. Sew across the overlapped ends using a zigzag stitch or a box stitch (a square with an X through it) to make the seam strong. Trim any excess elastic.

Push the elastic back into the casing. Pin the opening closed and sew it shut with a straight stitch, backstitching at the start and end.

Hem the bottom edge to finish the garment

Fold the bottom raw edge of the sarong up toward the inside by half an inch and press with the iron. Fold it up again by half an inch and press. Pin the hem in place all the way around. Sew close to the inner fold, removing pins as you go, and backstitch at the start and end.

Try on the sarong and adjust the fit if needed. The elastic should sit at your natural waist or hip, and the hem should reach the length you measured. If the elastic feels too tight or too loose, you can open the casing, adjust the elastic, and resew it.

Choose fabric weight and fiber based on the climate where you will wear it

Lightweight cotton, linen, and rayon work well for warm weather because they breathe and dry quickly. Cotton-linen blends are durable and hold their shape through many washes. Heavier cotton or cotton blends work for cooler seasons or if you prefer more coverage and structure.

Avoid very stretchy fabrics like spandex blends unless you are experienced with sewing knits, because they require special needles and techniques. Avoid very slippery fabrics like silk charmeuse if this is your first sarong, because they are difficult to pin and sew straight.

Pre-wash your fabric in warm water and dry it before you cut, because most natural fibers shrink slightly. This prevents your finished sarong from becoming too small after the first wash.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if my sarong is too loose or too tight after I finish it?

Open the casing by carefully cutting the stitches along the opening you left. Remove the elastic, measure a new length that is 1 to 2 inches shorter (for tighter) or longer (for looser), and thread it back through. Overlap and sew the new ends together, then stitch the casing closed again.

Can I add a drawstring instead of elastic?

Yes. Make the casing the same way, but make it slightly wider—about 2 inches—to accommodate cord. Use a safety pin to thread cord (paracord or cotton rope work well) through the casing. Tie the ends together in a knot or bow. You can adjust the fit by tightening or loosening the knot.

What stitch should I use if my sewing machine has multiple options?

Use a straight stitch for all seams and hems. A straight stitch is the most basic and strongest stitch for woven fabrics. Use a zigzag stitch only when sewing the elastic ends together, because it allows the seam to stretch slightly without breaking.

How much fabric do I need to buy?

Buy fabric equal to your desired length plus 1 inch, and width equal to your hip circumference plus 4 inches. Most fabric is sold in yards (36 inches), so round up to the nearest yard. For most adults, 1.5 to 2 yards is enough.

Can I sew a sarong by hand if I don't have a sewing machine?

Yes, but it will take much longer—usually 12 to 20 hours. Use a running stitch or backstitch with thread that matches your fabric. A backstitch is stronger and more durable for a garment you will wear frequently. Hand-sewn seams should be half an inch wide, the same as machine seams.