What You'll Make and What You Need
A basic shopping bag is a rectangle of fabric folded in half, sewn up the sides, and fitted with handles. You can finish one in an afternoon using either a sewing machine or a needle and thread. The finished bag holds groceries, library books, or anything else you'd carry in a tote, and it's sturdy enough to use for years.
Gather two pieces of fabric, each 16 inches wide by 18 inches tall. Cotton or linen works best for a first project—avoid stretchy fabrics. You'll also need thread that matches your fabric, scissors, pins, a measuring tape, and either a sewing machine or a hand-sewing needle. For handles, you can use two strips of the same fabric, or buy pre-made webbing straps from a fabric store.
Key Takeaways
- Cut two rectangles of fabric 16 inches wide by 18 inches tall, and pin them together with the pretty sides facing inward.
- Sew a straight line around three sides, leaving the top edge open, using either a machine or a running stitch by hand.
- Turn the bag right-side-out through the opening, then fold the raw edges inward and sew the top closed.
- Attach two handles by pinching the top corners and sewing them securely to the inside of the bag.
- A machine-sewn bag takes 30 to 45 minutes; hand-sewing takes 90 minutes to two hours.
Cutting and Pinning Your Fabric
Lay your first piece of fabric on a flat surface. Using a measuring tape and a pen or fabric marker, mark a rectangle 16 inches wide and 18 inches tall. Cut along those lines with sharp scissors. Repeat with your second piece of fabric so you have two identical rectangles.
Place the two rectangles on top of each other with the pretty sides facing inward—this is the side you want to show on the finished bag. The back sides should face outward. Pin around all four edges, spacing pins about 2 inches apart. Pinning keeps the layers from sliding while you sew.
Sewing the Sides and Bottom
If you're using a sewing machine, thread it with thread that matches your fabric. Set the stitch length to medium (around 2.5 on most machines). Position the fabric under the presser foot so the needle is about half an inch from the edge. Sew along the left side, across the bottom, and up the right side, stopping about half an inch from the top corner. Leave the entire top edge unsewn—this is where you'll turn the bag right-side-out.
If you're sewing by hand, use a running stitch: thread your needle, knot the end, and push the needle through both layers from back to front about half an inch from the edge. Pull the thread snug. Push the needle back through both layers about a quarter inch away, then forward again a quarter inch further. Repeat this in-and-out motion along the left side, bottom, and right side. Keep your stitches small and even—aim for about 8 to 10 stitches per inch. Stop when you reach the top corner on the right side.
Backstitch or tie off your thread when you reach the end. The top edge remains open.
Turning the Bag Right-Side-Out
Reach through the opening at the top and grab the bottom corner of the bag from the inside. Pull it up and out through the opening. Keep pulling gently until the entire bag turns inside-out, so the pretty fabric is now on the outside. Use a blunt object like a wooden spoon handle to push the corners out fully so they're sharp and square.
Once the bag is right-side-out, fold the raw edges of the opening inward about half an inch on both layers, and pin them closed. Press with your fingers or an iron to crease the fold. This makes the final seam sit flat.
Closing the Top and Adding Handles
Sew the top opening closed using the same stitch you used for the sides—either a machine stitch or a running stitch by hand. Sew as close to the folded edge as you can, about a quarter inch in. This seam will be visible on the inside of the bag, so neatness matters less than on the outer seams.
For handles, cut two strips of fabric 3 inches wide and 20 inches long, or use pre-made webbing. Fold each strip in half lengthwise and sew the long edge closed if you're using fabric strips. Position one handle so the ends sit inside the bag at the top, about 3 inches from each side seam. Pin the ends down. Sew a small square around each end—sew forward and back over the same spot three or four times to anchor it securely. Repeat with the second handle on the opposite side.
Turn the bag right-side-out and check that the handles are find. You're done.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
The most frequent error is sewing with the pretty sides of the fabric facing outward. When you turn the bag, the seams end up on the outside where they're visible and look unfinished. Always check before you start: the seams should be hidden inside the finished bag.
Another common problem is sewing all four sides closed, then realizing you have no opening to turn the bag through. Leave the entire top edge unsewn. You need at least 6 inches of open seam to fit your hand through comfortably.
Handles that pull loose happen when the stitching is too shallow or too few passes. Sew each handle end at least three times, overlapping your stitches. If a handle does come loose later, you can re-sew it by hand in a few minutes.
Variations and Next Steps
Once you've made a basic bag, you can add pockets by sewing a smaller rectangle of fabric to the inside before you close the top. You can also use two different fabrics—one for the outside and one for the lining—by sewing them together before you start the main seams. Thicker fabrics like canvas or denim make bags that last longer, though they take slightly more effort to sew by hand.
If you want a bag with a flat bottom that stands upright, sew a gusset—a strip of fabric sewn into the bottom seam that adds depth. This is a step up in difficulty but uses the same stitches you've already learned.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a knit fabric like jersey or fleece?
Knits are stretchy and harder to control, especially by hand. Cotton, linen, canvas, and denim are better choices for a first bag. Once you're comfortable with the basic technique, you can experiment with knits on a machine, which handles stretch better than hand-sewing.
What thread should I use?
All-purpose polyester or cotton thread works fine. Match the color to your fabric so the stitches blend in. Avoid very thin thread—it breaks easily—and very thick thread, which is hard to push through a needle by hand.
Do I need to finish the raw edges inside the bag?
No. For a casual shopping bag, raw edges are fine and won't fray much with normal use. If you want a more polished look, you can trim the seam allowance to a quarter inch and fold it under before sewing the top closed, but this adds time and isn't necessary.
How much fabric do I actually need to buy?
One yard of 45-inch-wide fabric is enough for two bags. If you're buying pre-cut fabric, ask the store staff how much you need for two 16-by-18-inch rectangles.
Can I make the bag bigger or smaller?
Yes. Add or subtract inches from both the width and height equally. A 12-by-14-inch bag holds less but is easier to sew. A 20-by-22-inch bag holds more but uses more fabric and takes longer to sew.