What You Need Before You Start

A short skirt is one of the fastest sewing projects you can finish — most people complete one in an afternoon or two. You will need fabric (cotton, linen, or a cotton blend works well for beginners), a sewing machine, thread that matches your fabric, elastic for the waistband, scissors, pins, a measuring tape, and a needle for hand-sewing the elastic casing. You do not need a pattern; a straightforward skirt is a rectangle of fabric gathered or pleated at the waist.

Before you buy fabric, measure your waist and decide how long you want the skirt. Most short skirts sit 2 to 4 inches above the knee. Add 1 inch to your waist measurement for seam allowance and comfort, then add 3 to 4 inches to your length for the waistband casing and hem. A typical short skirt uses 1 to 1.5 yards of 45-inch-wide fabric, depending on your size.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut a rectangle of fabric that is your waist measurement plus 1 inch wide and your desired length plus 4 inches tall, then sew the short ends together to form a tube.
  • Fold the top edge down 1 inch and sew a casing (a tunnel of fabric) around the waist, leaving a 2-inch opening to thread elastic through.
  • Thread elastic through the casing, overlap the ends by 1 inch, and sew them together, then sew the opening closed.
  • Fold the bottom edge up 1 inch, press it flat, and sew it down by machine or by hand to finish the hem.
  • The entire project takes 2 to 4 hours and requires only straight seams, making it ideal for beginners.

Cutting and Preparing Your Fabric

Lay your fabric flat on a clean surface and measure out a rectangle. The width should be your waist measurement plus 1 inch (the extra inch accounts for the seam that joins the two short ends). The height should be your desired skirt length plus 4 inches — 1 inch for the top casing, 1 inch for seam allowance at the top, and 2 inches for the hem at the bottom. Use a measuring tape and a ruler or straight edge to mark these lines lightly with tailor's chalk or a fabric pencil.

Cut along your marked lines with sharp fabric scissors. If your fabric has a pattern or nap (a direction the texture runs), make sure all your pieces face the same way. Once you have cut the rectangle, fold it in half lengthwise with the right sides (the pretty sides) facing each other, and pin the two short ends together. This fold will become the back seam of your skirt.

Sewing the Side Seam

Thread your sewing machine with thread that matches your fabric. Set the machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.5 to 3 millimeters — this is a standard setting on most machines. Sew along the pinned short ends, starting 0.5 inches from the edge and sewing to 0.5 inches from the other edge. This 0.5-inch margin is your seam allowance and keeps the seam from unraveling.

Remove the pins and turn the tube right-side out so the pretty fabric faces outward. Press the seam flat with an iron on a low to medium setting. You now have a tube of fabric that forms the body of your skirt.

Creating the Waistband Casing

Fold the top raw edge of the tube down 0.5 inches toward the inside and press it flat with an iron. Then fold it down another 1 inch and press again. This creates a 1-inch-wide tunnel, or casing, that will hold your elastic. Pin this fold in place all the way around.

Sew around the entire top of the skirt, 0.75 inches from the folded edge, leaving a 2-inch opening. This opening is where you will thread the elastic through. Backstitch at the beginning and end of your seam to lock the thread. Remove the pins.

Threading and Securing the Elastic

Measure elastic that fits snugly around your waist — usually 1 to 2 inches shorter than your actual waist measurement. Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic and feed it through the 2-inch opening in the casing, working it all the way around the tunnel until both ends of the elastic come back out through the opening.

Overlap the two ends of the elastic by 1 inch and sew them together with a needle and thread or a zigzag stitch on your machine. This overlap keeps the elastic from slipping. Once the elastic is find, tuck it back into the casing and sew the 2-inch opening closed by hand with a needle and thread, using a whip stitch (a stitch that runs along the fold and is nearly invisible from the outside).

Hemming the Bottom

Try on your skirt and mark where you want the hem with a pin or tailor's chalk. The hem should be even all the way around. Take off the skirt and fold the bottom edge up 1 inch all the way around, pressing it flat with an iron as you go. Pin the fold in place.

Sew the hem by machine, stitching 0.75 inches from the folded edge, or sew it by hand using a whip stitch if you prefer a less visible seam. A machine stitch is faster; a hand stitch is quieter and gives a softer finish. Either way, remove the pins and press the finished hem flat.

Finishing Touches

Try on your skirt one more time. The waistband should sit comfortably without pinching, and the hem should hang evenly. If the elastic feels too tight or too loose, you can open the casing again, adjust the elastic, and re-sew it — this is one of the easiest fixes in sewing.

If you see any loose threads, trim them with scissors. Press the entire skirt with an iron on a low to medium setting, using a pressing cloth (a thin cotton cloth) between the iron and your fabric if it is delicate. Your skirt is now ready to wear.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if my fabric frays a lot?

Cotton and linen fray at the cut edges. You can finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch on your machine before you sew the side seam, or you can explore a liquid fray preventer (a clear liquid that dries and seals the edge) to the cut edges. For a beginner, the zigzag stitch is the easiest option and takes only a few minutes.

Can I make this skirt without a sewing machine?

Yes, but it will take longer. You can sew all the seams by hand using a running stitch or a backstitch, which are both strong and reliable. The side seam, casing, and hem will each take 20 to 30 minutes by hand instead of 5 to 10 minutes by machine. Many people hand-sew the hem even when they use a machine for the other seams.

What happens if I cut the fabric the wrong size?

If your rectangle is too narrow, the skirt will be tight at the waist and you may not be able to pull it on. If it is too wide, the skirt will bunch and look sloppy even with elastic. If your rectangle is too short, the hem will be very narrow or nonexistent. Measure twice before you cut, and keep your scraps in case you need to add a strip of fabric to the width or length.

Do I need to pre-wash the fabric?

Cotton and linen shrink when washed, so pre-washing is a good idea if you plan to wash your skirt in hot water. Wash the fabric in the same water temperature you will use for the finished skirt, dry it, and press it flat before you cut. This prevents the skirt from shrinking after you sew it.

What kind of elastic should I use?

Braided elastic or knit elastic both work well for skirts. Braided elastic is stiffer and holds its shape longer; knit elastic is softer and more comfortable against skin. For a first skirt, knit elastic is easier to work with because it does not curl or twist as you thread it through the casing.