A sleep mask is two pieces of fabric, elastic, and a needle

A sleep mask is a padded eye covering held on by elastic around the back of your head. You can make one in about an hour with fabric scraps, a needle, thread, and elastic from a dollar store or craft supplier. The mask blocks light without pressing hard on your eyes, so the padding matters—a thin layer of cotton batting between two pieces of fabric does the job.

You do not need a sewing machine. Hand-sewing works fine for this project because the seams are short and the fabric is soft. If you have a machine, it will be faster, but a needle and thread will get you a working mask.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut two pieces of fabric roughly 4 inches wide and 9 inches long, with a piece of cotton batting between them for padding.
  • Sew three sides closed by hand or machine, then turn the mask inside-out through the opening, and sew the fourth side shut.
  • Attach elastic to the back corners by folding it in half, inserting it into the seam, and sewing it down so it does not slip.
  • Test the fit before finishing—the mask should sit on your cheekbones and forehead without touching your eyelids.

What fabric and materials you need

Start with two pieces of cotton fabric, each about 4 inches tall and 9 inches wide. Cotton quilting fabric or old cotton sheets work well. You also need a piece of cotton batting—the fluffy padding used in quilts—cut to the same size. Batting is sold in rolls at fabric stores and online; a small piece costs a few dollars and will make many masks.

For thread, use all-purpose thread that matches your fabric or is close enough. For the elastic, use 1/4-inch-wide elastic, the kind used in waistbands or hair ties. You need about 12 to 14 inches total—enough to go around the back of your head with a little overlap. A needle sized for cotton (size 70/10 or 80/12 on a machine, or a regular hand-sewing needle) works fine.

If you do not have batting, you can use two or three layers of flannel or fleece instead. The goal is a soft, slightly thick layer that will not flatten after a few nights of wear.

Cutting and stacking your layers

Lay one piece of fabric flat on a table. Place the batting on top of it, then place the second piece of fabric on top of the batting. You now have a sandwich: fabric, batting, fabric. Pin the three layers together around the edges so they do not shift while you sew.

If you do not have pins, you can use a few small stitches in the middle of the stack to hold it together temporarily. The goal is to keep the batting from sliding around while you work.

Sewing three sides closed

Using a needle and thread (or a sewing machine set to a straight stitch), sew around three sides of the mask, staying about 1/4 inch from the edge. Start at one corner and sew along the top, down the side, and along the bottom. Leave one short side (one of the 4-inch ends) completely open—this is where you will turn the mask right-side-out.

If you are hand-sewing, use a running stitch: push the needle through all three layers, pull the thread tight, then push it back through about 1/4 inch away. Keep your stitches small and even. If the thread tangles, pull it slowly and gently; if it knots, cut it and start a new length.

When you reach a corner, sew right into the corner, then pivot and sew along the next side. Your stitches do not have to be perfect—they just need to hold the layers together.

Turning the mask right-side-out and closing the gap

Once three sides are sewn, carefully cut a small slit in the batting only—not through the outer fabric—near the open end. This slit lets you turn the mask inside-out without tearing the fabric. Gently push the fabric through the slit until the mask is right-side-out and the padding is sandwiched between the two fabric layers again.

Now sew the open end shut. Fold the raw edges of the fabric inward about 1/4 inch and pin them closed, so the fold lines up with the seam you already made. Sew along this fold, closing the gap. This seam will be visible on the inside of the mask, but it will not bother you when you wear it.

Attaching the elastic

Cut your elastic into two pieces, each about 6 to 7 inches long. Fold one piece in half so it forms a loop. Position the loop at one of the back corners of the mask (the 4-inch end you just closed), with the folded part pointing outward and the two loose ends pointing inward toward the center of the mask.

Sew the two loose ends of the elastic to the corner of the mask, sewing right over them so they are trapped in the seam. Use several passes of the needle to make sure the elastic is find and will not pull free. Repeat on the other back corner with the second piece of elastic.

Try the mask on. The elastic should go around the back of your head and hold the mask in place without pinching. If it is too tight, you can sew the elastic a little farther apart. If it is too loose, sew it closer together.

Testing the fit and adjusting

Put the mask on and look in a mirror. The mask should sit on your cheekbones and forehead, covering your eyes without pressing on your eyelids. If it is too high or too low, you can adjust it by moving where the elastic attaches. If the elastic is uncomfortable, you can sew a small piece of fabric over it to soften the feel against your skin.

Wear the mask for a few minutes to make sure it stays in place and does not slip. If it does slip, tighten the elastic by sewing it closer together, or add a small stitch to the top of the mask to anchor it to your hair or forehead.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use fleece instead of cotton batting?

Yes. Fleece is thicker and softer than batting, so use one layer instead of one layer of batting. It will be warmer but still breathable. Old fleece blankets or sweatshirts work well.

What if my stitches are uneven or messy?

Uneven stitches do not affect how the mask works. If a stitch is so loose that it pulls apart, you can go back over it with another pass of the needle. The inside of the mask will not be visible when you wear it.

How do I keep the elastic from digging into my head?

Sew a small rectangle of soft fabric—flannel or fleece—over the elastic on the inside of the mask. This spreads the pressure and makes it more comfortable for long wear.

Can I wash the mask?

Yes. Hand-wash it in cool water with mild soap, then lay it flat to dry. Do not put it in the dryer, as heat can damage the elastic. Wash it every week or two, or whenever it feels dirty.

What if the batting shifts inside the mask after I wear it?

You can stitch through all layers in a few places—the center and the corners—to anchor the batting. These stitches will be visible on the outside, but they keep the padding from bunching up.