What a snood is and why you'd make one
A snood is a close-fitting fabric tube that holds hair at the back of the head or neck. It's sometimes called a hair net, though a sewn snood is sturdier and more decorative than the stretchy kind you buy. You make one by sewing a rectangle of fabric into a tube, then gathering the edges so the fabric bunches slightly and holds hair in place without pins or clips.
Sewing a snood takes about an hour once you have your materials, and the construction is straightforward: measure, cut, sew three seams, turn it right-side out, and add elastic. It's a good project if you've sewn a pillowcase or straightforward bag before, because the steps are the same. You'll use a sewing machine and basic stitches—no zippers, no buttonholes, no complicated shaping.
Key Takeaways
- A snood is a tube of fabric gathered at both ends with elastic, and you make one by sewing a rectangle closed and adding casing for elastic at each end.
- You need fabric (cotton, linen, or a blend works well), elastic (usually half an inch wide), thread, scissors, a measuring tape, and a sewing machine.
- The basic steps are: cut a rectangle, sew three sides closed, turn it right-side out, sew casing channels for the elastic, thread elastic through, and close the opening.
- Measure around the back of your head where the snood will sit to find the length; the width is usually 4 to 6 inches depending on how much hair you have.
Measuring and choosing your fabric
Start by measuring the circumference where the snood will sit—usually around the back of your head from one ear to the other, following the curve of your skull. Use a soft measuring tape and pull it snug but not tight. Write down that number; that's your length. For width, most snoods are 4 to 6 inches tall. If you have thick or long hair, go closer to 6 inches. If you have fine or short hair, 4 inches is enough.
Choose a fabric that drapes softly and won't slip. Cotton quilting fabric, linen, cotton voile, and cotton-linen blends all work well. Avoid stiff fabrics like canvas or heavy denim—they won't gather smoothly and will feel uncomfortable. A medium-weight cotton is ideal. Buy a piece at least 1 yard long; you'll have scraps left over, but that gives you room to cut without waste.
Wash and dry your fabric before you cut, because most natural fabrics shrink slightly. This matters because your snood needs to fit snugly. Dry it on low heat and press it flat with an iron before you measure and cut.
Cutting and preparing your rectangle
Cut a rectangle that is your head measurement plus 1 inch for seam allowance, by your width measurement plus 2 inches. For example, if your head measures 18 inches around and you want a 5-inch-tall snood, cut an 19-by-7-inch rectangle. The extra inch in length accounts for the seams that will overlap when you sew the tube closed. The extra 2 inches in width gives you room to fold and sew the casing for the elastic.
Use a ruler and a rotary cutter, or mark your lines with tailor's chalk and cut with sharp fabric scissors. Make sure your corners are square and your edges are straight. Lay the rectangle on a flat surface and double-check your measurements before you cut—it's easier to measure twice than to cut twice.
Sewing the tube and adding casing
Place your rectangle with the right side (the pretty side) facing inward, so the wrong sides face outward. Fold it in half lengthwise, so the two long edges meet. Pin along the long edge and sew a seam ½ inch from the edge using a straight stitch. This creates a tube. Backstitch at the beginning and end to lock the thread.
Now fold the short ends inward ½ inch and press with an iron to crease them. Fold them inward again another ½ inch and press again. This double fold creates a channel (called casing) where you'll thread the elastic later. Pin the fold in place and sew close to the inner fold line, leaving a small gap (about 1 inch) on one end so you can thread the elastic through.
Turn the tube right-side out through the gap you left. Use a blunt tool like a chopstick or the eraser end of a pencil to gently push the corners out so they're square. Press the whole tube flat with an iron, paying special attention to the seams so they lie flat.
Threading elastic and closing the snood
Cut two pieces of elastic, each about 2 inches shorter than your head measurement. For an 18-inch head, cut two 16-inch pieces. Attach a safety pin to one end of the first piece of elastic and thread it through the casing at one end of the snood. The safety pin catches on the fabric and helps you push it through without losing it inside the tube.
Once the elastic is threaded all the way through, overlap the two ends by ½ inch and sew them together with a zigzag stitch to create a loop. Repeat with the second piece of elastic at the other end of the snood. The elastic should now be sewn into a loop inside each casing channel.
Close the gap you left for threading by folding the raw edges inward ½ inch, pressing them, and sewing them closed with a ladder stitch (also called an invisible stitch) or a straightforward straight stitch. If you use a straight stitch, it will be visible, but it will be hidden inside the casing, so it doesn't matter.
Trying on and adjusting the fit
Put the snood on and slide it to the back of your head where you want it to sit. The elastic should hold it in place without pinching or slipping. If it's too loose, you can remove one piece of elastic, cut it shorter, and sew the ends together again. If it's too tight, add a small piece of elastic to one of the loops by unsewing the overlap, adding 1 to 2 inches, and re-sewing.
Check that the fabric gathers evenly around both ends. If one end is bunching more than the other, the elastic in that loop may be tighter. You can adjust by loosening the stitches slightly and shifting the elastic until the gather looks even, then re-sewing.
Finishing touches and care
If you want to reinforce the seams, run a zigzag stitch along the raw edge of the long seam you sewed earlier. This prevents fraying and makes the snood last longer. Trim any loose threads with scissors.
Wash your snood in cool water with mild soap and lay it flat to dry, or dry it on low heat. Don't bleach it or use hot water, which can damage the elastic and fade the fabric. If the fabric wrinkles, press it lightly with a warm iron on the cotton setting.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use stretchy fabric instead of elastic?
You can, but elastic works better because it holds the snood in place without slipping. Stretchy fabric like jersey or spandex blends will work, but you'll need to cut it narrower (about 3 inches) and sew it without the casing—just sew the edges directly. The snood will be less adjustable and may feel tighter.
What if I don't have a sewing machine?
You can hand-sew a snood, but it takes longer—usually 2 to 3 hours. Use a needle and thread, a running stitch for the seams, and a ladder stitch to close the gaps. The seams won't be as strong as machine-sewn ones, so reinforce them by going over them twice.
How do I make the snood wider to hold more hair?
Cut a taller rectangle—7 or 8 inches instead of 5 or 6. The wider the snood, the more fabric you need to gather, so you may need slightly longer elastic (add ½ inch to each piece). Test the fit before you sew the elastic permanently.
Can I add a decorative edge or trim?
Yes. Before you sew the tube closed, sew lace, ribbon, or bias tape along one or both short ends. Make sure the trim is sewn to the right side of the fabric so it shows when the snood is turned right-side out. This adds a finished look without changing the construction.
What's the difference between a snood and a hair net?
A hair net is usually made from stretchy netting and has no seams—it's one continuous mesh. A snood is sewn from woven or knit fabric and has visible seams. A snood is sturdier, more decorative, and easier to sew by hand or machine. Both hold hair the same way, but a snood looks more like a finished garment.