What a spaghetti strap is and why the method matters
A spaghetti strap is a thin, rounded shoulder strap made from a tube of fabric sewn inside-out and turned right-side-out. It appears on tank tops, sundresses, and camisoles. The method you choose — hand or machine — depends on the fabric weight, the strap width you want, and how much time you have. Machine sewing is faster and stronger; hand sewing gives you more control on delicate fabrics and lets you work without setting up equipment.
The basic principle is the same either way: you sew two pieces of fabric together in a long, thin rectangle, turn it inside-out through a small opening, and stitch the opening closed. The finished strap is smooth on both sides with no raw edges visible.
Key Takeaways
- Cut two strips of fabric on the grain, each about twice the finished strap width plus half an inch for seam allowance on all sides.
- Machine sewing takes 15 to 20 minutes per strap and produces a stronger seam; hand sewing takes longer but works on any fabric thickness.
- The turning step is the trickiest part — use a safety pin, bodkin, or chopstick threaded through the tube to pull the fabric right-side-out.
- Press the strap flat after turning and before final stitching to remove wrinkles and make the seams sit evenly.
Cutting and preparing your fabric strips
Start by deciding how wide you want the finished strap. Most spaghetti straps are between one-quarter and one-half inch wide. Cut two identical strips of fabric, each running along the grain of the material. The length should be the finished strap length plus one inch for seam allowance and turning room. The width should be twice your finished width plus one-half inch total for seam allowance (one-quarter inch on each long side).
For example, if you want a finished strap that is one-quarter inch wide and 20 inches long, cut two strips that are 20.5 inches long and 1 inch wide. Use a ruler and rotary cutter or scissors to keep the edges straight and even. Crooked edges make the finished strap look uneven.
If your fabric frays easily, you can seal the raw edges with a tiny dab of fray check along the long sides before sewing, though this is optional. Let it dry completely before proceeding.
Machine sewing the strap tube
Place the two fabric strips with right sides together (the pretty sides facing each other). Pin along both long edges. Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.0 to 2.5 millimeters — small enough to hold the seam but not so small that the fabric puckers.
Sew down one long edge using a one-quarter inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the start and end. Sew across one short end, then down the other long edge. Leave the remaining short end open — this is your turning hole. Backstitch at both corners of the opening so the seam does not unravel when you turn the strap.
Trim the seam allowance down to one-eighth inch, being careful not to cut through the stitches. Clip the corners at a 45-degree angle close to the stitching line. This removes bulk and helps the corners turn out sharp and smooth.
Hand sewing the strap tube
If you are sewing by hand, place the two strips right sides together and pin them. Use a backstitch — the strongest hand stitch — with a one-quarter inch seam allowance. Start at one corner and sew down the first long edge, across the short end, and down the second long edge. Leave the remaining short end open.
Make your stitches small and even, about one-eighth inch apart. Backstitch means you push the needle forward through both layers, then bring it back and push it through again at the point where the thread emerged — this creates a solid line with no gaps. Work slowly and keep the seam line straight by following a marked line or the edge of a ruler.
When you reach the corners, take an extra stitch or two to reinforce them. After sewing is complete, trim the seam allowance to one-eighth inch and clip the corners as you would with machine sewing.
Turning the strap right-side-out
This step requires patience. The strap is now a long, thin tube with the seams on the outside. You need to pull it through the opening so the seams end up on the inside and the pretty fabric shows on both sides.
The easiest tool is a safety pin. Thread the safety pin through the opening at the end of the strap, then close it. Push the safety pin into the tube and use it to grab the fabric inside, then pull the safety pin back out through the opening. As you pull, the fabric will turn inside-out and follow the safety pin. Keep pushing and pulling until the entire strap has turned and the opening is now at the end again.
If a safety pin does not work, try a bodkin (a flat metal tool with an eye, sold in sewing shops) or a wooden chopstick. Thread the bodkin or chopstick through the opening, push it into the tube, and use it to catch the fabric and pull it back out. Work slowly — rushing can tear the seam or create wrinkles that are hard to remove.
Pressing and closing the opening
Once the strap is turned right-side-out, press it flat with an iron on low to medium heat, depending on your fabric. Press from both sides to remove wrinkles and to make the seams sit evenly along the edges. The strap should look smooth and rounded, not bunched or twisted.
Now close the opening. You can do this by hand or machine. For a machine finish, fold the raw edges of the opening inward by one-quarter inch and pin them together. Sew along the fold using a straight stitch, backstitching at the start and end. For a hand finish, use a ladder stitch (also called a slip stitch) — this stitch is nearly invisible because the thread runs inside the fold of the fabric. Bring the needle out through the fold, cross over to the opposite side, insert the needle into the fold, run it along inside the fold for one-quarter inch, and come back out. Repeat until the opening is closed.
Attaching the strap to your garment
Before you attach the strap, decide where it will sit on the front and back of the garment. Mark these points with pins or tailor's chalk. The strap should be perpendicular to the neckline or armhole, not at an angle.
You can attach the strap by hand or machine. For machine attachment, position the strap end under the presser foot with the garment, align it with your marked point, and sew it down using a straight stitch or a small zigzag stitch. Sew back and forth over the strap end two or three times to reinforce it. For hand attachment, use a ladder stitch to sew the strap to the garment, stitching through the fold of the strap and the fabric of the garment so the stitches are hidden.
Repeat on the other end of the strap and on the back of the garment. Press the finished garment to set all seams.
Frequently Asked Questions
What fabric works best for spaghetti straps?
Cotton, linen, and cotton blends are easiest to work with because they hold their shape and do not fray excessively. Silk and rayon are more delicate and require careful handling during turning, but they produce elegant straps. Avoid very thick fabrics like denim or canvas — the seam allowance will be too bulky to turn smoothly.
Can I make spaghetti straps from bias tape instead of cutting my own strips?
Yes. Fold bias tape in half lengthwise with wrong sides together, press it, and sew the open edges together using a one-eighth inch seam allowance. Trim the seam, press again, and attach it to your garment. This method is faster but the strap will be slightly stiffer than one made from grain-cut fabric.
My strap twisted when I turned it — can I fix it?
Yes. Dampen the strap lightly with water or a spray bottle, then press it flat with an iron on low heat. Use your fingers to straighten any twists while the fabric is still warm. If twists return after pressing, the strap may have been sewn off-grain; you can unpick one end, unroll the strap, and re-sew it more carefully.
How do I keep the strap from slipping off my shoulder?
Sew the strap securely to the garment using multiple passes of the needle, or reinforce the attachment point with a small square of stitching. Some sewers add a tiny hook and eye or a snap at the strap end to hold it in place, though this is usually not necessary if the strap is sewn firmly.