A strap is two pieces of fabric sewn together along the long edges, then turned right-side out
A strap is a tube of fabric made by sewing two long strips together, flipping it inside-out so the seams are hidden, and pressing it flat. You use straps on bags, aprons, dresses, and anywhere you need a reinforced handle or tie. The basic method is the same whether you sew by hand or machine: cut two matching strips, sew three sides closed, turn it through the opening, press it, and close the fourth side.
The hardest part is not the sewing—it is turning the strap right-side out through a narrow opening without tearing it. Once you know the trick, the whole process takes 10 to 20 minutes per strap, depending on length and whether you use a machine.
Key Takeaways
- Cut two identical fabric strips, add a half-inch seam allowance on all sides, and sew three long sides together before turning.
- Use a safety pin or bodkin threaded through the opening to pull the strap right-side out without stretching or tearing the fabric.
- Press the strap flat with an iron after turning, with the seam running down the center of one edge.
- Close the fourth side by hand with a ladder stitch (invisible from the outside) or by machine with a topstitch.
- Test your strap on scrap fabric first if you are new to sewing, so you understand the turning step before committing to your real project.
Measure and cut two matching strips
Decide how long and wide you want the finished strap. A typical bag strap is 1.5 to 2 inches wide and 20 to 40 inches long. A dress tie might be 1 inch wide and 24 inches long. Write down the finished width and length you want.
Add half an inch to the width and half an inch to the length for seam allowance. If you want a finished strap 2 inches wide and 30 inches long, cut two strips that are 3 inches wide and 30.5 inches long. Lay one strip on top of the other, right sides together (the pretty sides facing each other), and pin them so they do not slip while you sew.
Sew three sides, leaving one short end open
Sew along the two long sides and one short end, using a half-inch seam allowance. If you use a sewing machine, set it to a medium stitch length (around 2.5 on most machines) and backstitch at the start and end of each seam to lock the thread. If you sew by hand, use a running stitch or backstitch, keeping your stitches small and even—about one-eighth inch apart.
Leave one short end completely open. This is your turning hole. Trim the corners at a 45-degree angle, cutting away the fabric triangle at each corner without cutting into your stitches. This step is crucial: when you turn the strap right-side out, the corners will be less bulky and will lie flat instead of bunching.
Turn the strap right-side out through the opening
This is where most people get stuck. Trying to push the strap through the hole with your fingers will bunch the fabric and can tear it. Instead, use a safety pin or a bodkin (a blunt needle with a large eye). Thread the safety pin through the opening and pin it to the fabric at the far end of the strap, on the inside. Then push the safety pin back through the opening, pulling the strap along with it.
Go slowly and keep the fabric smooth as you pull. The strap will gradually flip inside-out as the safety pin moves through it. Once the strap is fully turned, the seams are now hidden on the inside and the right side of the fabric faces outward. Remove the safety pin.
Press the strap flat with an iron
Lay the strap on an ironing board and use a warm iron to press it flat. Position the seam so it runs down the center of one long edge—this makes the strap look professional and keeps it from curling. If your fabric is delicate, place a pressing cloth (a thin cotton cloth or even a clean tea towel) between the iron and the strap to protect it.
Press both sides of the strap. Let it cool completely before you move it, so the crease sets. A pressed strap is much easier to sew closed and looks better in the finished project.
Close the open end by hand or machine
You have two options. The first is to sew it closed by machine: fold the raw edges of the opening inward by half an inch, pin them together, and topstitch along the edge, sewing about one-eighth inch from the fold. This creates a visible line of stitching that actually looks intentional on most projects.
The second option is to close it by hand with a ladder stitch (also called a slip stitch), which is invisible from the outside. Fold the raw edges inward by half an inch and press them. Thread a needle and knot the end. Bring the needle up through the fold on one side, then cross over and go down through the fold on the other side. Slide the needle inside the fold for about one-quarter inch, then come back out and cross over again. Keep going back and forth, and the opening will close invisibly as you pull the thread snug.
Frequently Asked Questions
What fabric should I use for a strap?
Cotton, linen, and canvas are easiest for beginners because they hold their shape and do not fray excessively. Avoid very stretchy fabrics like knits unless you are reinforcing them with interfacing. If you want a thicker strap, use two layers of regular fabric or one layer of heavy canvas.
Can I make a strap without turning it inside-out?
Yes. Instead of sewing two strips together and turning, you can fold one strip in half lengthwise, sew the long edge closed, and press it flat. This is faster but creates a visible seam down one side. It works fine for casual projects like tote bags where the seam does not bother you.
What if my strap is too narrow to turn?
Straps narrower than one inch are genuinely difficult to turn by hand. Use a bodkin (available at fabric stores for a few dollars) instead of a safety pin—it is designed for this job and works better on tight spaces. Alternatively, fold the strap method above instead of sewing two pieces together.
How do I keep the strap from twisting when I turn it?
Trim your corners at 45 degrees and go slowly with the safety pin. If the strap does twist, you can untwist it as you pull—it is not ruined. Once you press it, any minor twists will flatten out.
Do I need to reinforce the strap where it attaches to a bag?
For a bag that will carry weight, sew the strap to the bag body, then sew over that seam again in a box or X pattern to distribute the stress. This prevents the strap from tearing away from the bag. For light projects like aprons, one line of stitching is enough.