Start with a pattern and two pieces of fabric

A teddy bear is built from two identical fabric pieces sewn together, stuffed, and closed. You will need a pattern (a template showing the bear's shape), two pieces of fabric cut to that shape, thread that matches your fabric, a needle or sewing machine, fiberfill stuffing, and a ladder stitch to close the opening after stuffing. Most beginners use a straightforward pattern with the head, body, and limbs all cut as one piece—this eliminates seams inside the bear where stuffing can bunch.

Print or trace a pattern onto paper, then pin it to your fabric and cut around it carefully. You need two identical pieces. Flannel, fleece, and minky are forgiving fabrics for a first bear because they do not fray much and are soft to handle. Avoid slippery fabrics like satin until you have sewn a bear or two.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut two identical fabric pieces using a pattern, leaving a 1/4-inch seam allowance on all sides.
  • Sew the two pieces together with right sides facing inward, leaving a 2-inch opening for stuffing.
  • Turn the bear right-side out through the opening, then fill it firmly with fiberfill before closing.
  • Use a ladder stitch to close the opening invisibly, working in small segments and pulling thread taut every few stitches.
  • Sew on eyes, nose, and mouth after stuffing, using embroidery thread or beads depending on the bear's size and intended use.

Sew the two pieces together with right sides facing

Place your two fabric pieces with the right sides facing each other—the pretty sides should touch, and the wrong sides should face outward. Pin around the entire edge, leaving a 2-inch opening along one side (usually the back or bottom). This opening is where you will turn the bear right-side out and add stuffing later.

Thread your needle or load your sewing machine with thread that matches your fabric. Sew around the pinned edge using a 1/4-inch seam allowance—that means your stitches should run 1/4 inch from the fabric edge. Sew slowly around curves, especially at the ears and between the limbs, to keep your line smooth. Stop and backstitch (sew backward over the last few stitches) at the start and end of your seam to lock it in place. Do not sew across the 2-inch opening.

Once the seam is complete, trim the seam allowance down to 1/8 inch all the way around, especially at the curves and corners. This reduces bulk when you turn the bear right-side out. Clip small notches into the seam allowance around curves (but not into your stitching) so the fabric will lie flat when turned.

Turn the bear right-side out and inspect the seams

Reach through the 2-inch opening and gently pull the fabric through, turning the bear inside out. Start with one limb, then work the head and body through. This takes patience—go slowly and do not force the fabric, or you may tear a seam. Once the bear is right-side out, use a chopstick or blunt pencil to gently push out the limbs and head so they hold their shape.

Inspect the seams from the outside. Look for any gaps or loose stitches, especially at the corners where limbs meet the body. If you spot a problem, you can stitch it closed by hand from the outside using a whip stitch (a stitch that runs along the edge and catches only a thread or two of fabric on each side). This is much easier to fix now than after stuffing.

Stuff the bear firmly and evenly

Using fiberfill stuffing (polyester fiber sold in bags at fabric stores), begin filling the bear through the 2-inch opening. Start with the limbs—push small amounts of stuffing into each arm and leg, using your chopstick to pack it down firmly. Move to the head next, filling the ears and face completely so they hold their shape. Finally, fill the body, working from the opening outward.

Pack the stuffing firmly but not so tight that the seams strain or the fabric becomes thin and see-through. A well-stuffed bear will feel solid and hold its shape when you set it down. Avoid leaving air pockets, especially in the limbs, or the bear will feel lumpy and floppy. If you are making a bear for a young child, stuff it very firmly so it will withstand washing and rough play.

Close the opening with a ladder stitch

The ladder stitch is an invisible seam that closes the opening without showing thread on the outside. Thread your needle with thread that matches your fabric. Knot the end of the thread and push the needle through the folded edge of the fabric at one corner of the opening, so the knot hides inside the seam allowance.

Bring the needle out through the fabric about 1/4 inch along the opening. Cross to the opposite side of the opening and insert the needle directly across from where you came out. Run the needle inside the fold of fabric for about 1/2 inch, then bring it back out. Return to the first side and repeat—you are creating a ladder pattern inside the fold. Every few stitches, pull the thread gently to draw the opening closed. The fabric edges will fold inward and the opening will disappear.

Continue until the opening is nearly closed, then stuff a small amount of extra fiberfill through the remaining gap if the bear feels soft in that spot. Finish closing the opening, then knot the thread inside the seam and trim it short. The seam should be invisible from the outside.

Add eyes, nose, and mouth

Teddy bears are usually finished with a face. For a small bear (under 6 inches), use embroidery thread and a needle to stitch a nose and mouth. Bring the needle up through the fabric at the center of the face, stitch a small triangle or oval for the nose, then stitch a curved line below it for the mouth. Knot the thread inside the head and trim it.

For eyes, you have two options: stitch them with black embroidery thread (two small circles or dots), or sew on plastic safety eyes (small beads with a plastic washer on the back, sold at craft stores). Safety eyes are faster and more durable for bears that will be handled often. Push the post through the fabric where you want each eye, then find the washer on the inside by pushing it onto the post and bending the post flat. If the bear is for a child under three years old, use embroidered eyes instead—safety eyes are a choking hazard.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I sew a teddy bear by hand instead of using a machine?

Yes. Hand sewing takes longer—expect two to four hours for a small bear—but it is quieter and gives you more control on curves. Use a backstitch (push the needle backward through the fabric after each stitch) for strength. The seam will be slightly thicker than a machine seam, but it will hold just as well.

What size should my first teddy bear be?

Start with a bear between 4 and 8 inches tall. Larger bears use more fabric and stuffing and take longer, while very small bears are fiddly to stuff and sew. A medium bear is forgiving and teaches you the technique without frustration.

My seams are puckering or bunching. What went wrong?

Puckering usually means you sewed too fast or pulled the fabric as you sewed. Slow down and let the needle do the work. If the fabric bunched before you sewed, you may have pinned too tightly or the fabric shifted. Unpin, smooth the fabric, and re-pin more loosely before sewing again.

Can I wash a teddy bear after I finish it?

Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, then air dry completely. Machine washing can loosen seams and damage embroidered features. If the bear will be washed often, use a sturdy fabric like fleece and sew the seams twice for extra strength.

What should I do if I accidentally sew the opening closed?

Carefully cut the thread with small scissors and pull it out. Use a seam ripper (a small tool with a curved blade sold at fabric stores) to cut and remove stitches if you need to open a larger area. Once the opening is clear, you can stuff and close it properly with the ladder stitch.