What You'll Make and Why It Works

A tooth fairy pillow is a small fabric pocket, usually 4 to 6 inches square, sewn closed on three sides with an opening at the top. Your child tucks a lost tooth inside, and the tooth fairy retrieves it without disturbing the pillow itself. The design is straightforward enough for a first sewing project—you need only straight seams, a needle, thread, and two pieces of fabric.

This pillow teaches basic hand-sewing or machine-sewing skills: measuring, cutting, pinning, sewing a seam, and turning fabric right-side out. Most people finish one in an afternoon. The finished pillow becomes a keepsake your child will remember, which is why many families make a new one for each child or each tooth.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut two fabric squares the same size (4 to 6 inches works well), pin them together with the pretty sides facing inward, and sew three sides closed.
  • Leave one side completely open so you can turn the pillow right-side out through that gap.
  • Turn the pillow through the opening, press it flat with an iron, and hand-stitch the opening closed with a ladder stitch or whip stitch.
  • Stuff the pillow lightly with fiberfill or cotton batting before closing if you want it puffy, or leave it flat for a simpler version.
  • Sew a small ribbon loop to one corner if you want to hang it, or add a button, embroidery, or appliqué for decoration.

Materials and Tools You Need

Gather two pieces of fabric, each cut to the same size. Cotton quilting fabric, flannel, or felt all work well. Avoid stretchy fabrics like knits unless you have experience with them. You will also need thread that matches or complements your fabric, a needle (size 7 or 8 for hand-sewing, or a machine needle if you are using a sewing machine), pins, scissors, and an iron.

Optional but helpful: a ruler or measuring tape, a pencil or fabric marker for marking seam lines, fiberfill or cotton batting for stuffing, and a small piece of ribbon if you want to add a hanging loop. If you are hand-sewing, a thimble protects your finger when pushing the needle through multiple layers.

Cutting and Pinning Your Fabric Squares

Measure and cut two fabric squares to the same size. A 5-inch square is a good starting size—large enough to hold a tooth comfortably but small enough to finish quickly. Use a ruler and a pencil or fabric marker to draw light lines on the back of the fabric, then cut along those lines with sharp scissors. Uneven edges are fine; the seam will hide them.

Place the two squares on a flat surface with the right sides facing each other (the pretty, printed, or colored sides should touch). This is the most common mistake: beginners often pin with the wrong sides together, which puts the seams on the outside of the finished pillow. Pin all four corners and the midpoint of each side to hold the fabric steady while you sew.

Sewing Three Sides Closed

You will sew three complete sides and leave one side open. A seam allowance is the space between the edge of the fabric and your stitching line—usually one-quarter inch for a small project like this. Mark a light line one-quarter inch in from the edge with a pencil if it helps you stay straight, or straightforward eyeball it as you go.

If you are hand-sewing, use a running stitch: push the needle through both layers of fabric, pull it out about one-quarter inch away, and repeat. Keep your stitches small and even. If you are using a sewing machine, set it to a straight stitch with medium length (around 2.5 on most machines), place the fabric under the presser foot, and sew slowly along one edge. Backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam to lock the thread.

Start at one corner and sew along the first side. When you reach the next corner, stop with the needle in the fabric, lift the presser foot (if machine-sewing), pivot the fabric 90 degrees, lower the foot, and continue. Sew the second and third sides the same way. Stop before you reach the fourth side—this is your opening for turning the pillow right-side out.

Turning and Pressing Your Pillow

Trim the corners of the sewn pillow diagonally, cutting away a small triangle of fabric at each corner. This reduces bulk so the corners look sharp when you turn the pillow right-side out. Be careful not to cut into your seam.

Reach into the opening you left unsewn and gently pull the pillow through, turning it inside out so the right sides of the fabric now face outward. Use a blunt tool like a chopstick or the eraser end of a pencil to push the corners out fully from the inside. Lay the pillow flat on an ironing board and press it with a warm iron to flatten the seams and remove wrinkles. This step makes the finished pillow look polished.

Stuffing and Closing the Opening

If you want a puffy pillow, lightly fill it with fiberfill or cotton batting through the open side. You do not need much—just enough to give it shape. If you prefer a flat pillow, skip this step entirely.

Close the opening with a ladder stitch (also called an invisible stitch), which hides the seam inside the fold of fabric. Thread your needle and knot the end. Bring the needle up through the fold of fabric on one side of the opening, then slide it horizontally inside the fold for about one-quarter inch and come back out. Cross to the opposite side of the opening and repeat, going in and out of the fold. After every few stitches, gently pull the thread to close the opening. The stitches will disappear inside the fold. Knot the thread on the inside when you reach the end.

Adding Decoration and a Hanging Loop

A plain pillow is finished, but you can personalize it with a few straightforward additions. Sew a small ribbon loop to one corner before closing the opening—fold a 3-inch piece of ribbon in half, tuck the raw ends between the two fabric layers at a corner, and stitch over them when you close the opening. This lets your child hang the pillow on a bedpost or doorknob.

You can also add a button, embroider initials or a tooth design on the front, or glue on a small appliqué before you sew the sides together. Keep decorations flat and small so they do not get caught when you turn the pillow right-side out. If you use glue, let it dry completely before sewing.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a sewing machine instead of hand-sewing?

Yes. A sewing machine is faster and produces more even seams. Set it to a straight stitch, use a seam allowance of one-quarter inch, and backstitch at the start and end of each seam. Hand-sewing takes longer but requires no equipment and is easier to control if you are new to sewing.

What if my seams are crooked or uneven?

Crooked seams are normal on a first project. They will not affect how the pillow works or looks once it is turned right-side out and pressed. As you make more pillows, your seams will become straighter with practice.

Do I have to stuff the pillow?

No. A flat pillow is simpler and works just as well. Stuffing makes it puffy and more decorative, but it is optional. If you do stuff it, use only a small amount so the pillow stays soft and straightforward to handle.

Can I use felt instead of cotton fabric?

Yes. Felt is thicker and does not fray, so you can skip pressing and some steps feel easier. The downside is that felt does not hold a crease as sharply as cotton, and it can look stiff. Cotton quilting fabric gives a softer, more finished look.

How do I keep the thread from showing on the outside?

Use thread that matches your fabric color. If you are hand-sewing the opening closed, use a ladder stitch—the stitches hide inside the fold of fabric and become nearly invisible. If you use a contrasting thread color on purpose, it becomes a design feature rather than a mistake.