A tree skirt is a fabric circle that sits around the base of your tree to hide the stand

A tree skirt is a circular or semi-circular piece of fabric that wraps around the bottom of your Christmas tree. It covers the stand and the tangle of branches at ground level, and it takes up less wall space than a traditional tree collar. You can make one from almost any fabric—cotton, felt, velvet, or quilting cotton all work well—and the basic construction is straightforward: cut a large circle, add a slit from the edge to the center so it slides over the trunk, and finish the edges.

The finished size depends on your tree's width. Most tree skirts range from 36 to 60 inches in diameter, which means they extend 18 to 30 inches from the trunk in all directions. A smaller tree (4 to 5 feet) works well with a 36- to 42-inch skirt. A full 6- to 7-foot tree usually needs 48 to 60 inches.

Key Takeaways

  • Measure your tree's width at the base and add 12 to 18 inches to find the diameter you need for your finished skirt.
  • Cut two identical circles from your fabric and one from batting or interfacing, then sew them together with the batting sandwiched between.
  • Cut a straight line from the outer edge to the center hole so the skirt can slide over the tree trunk without removing branches.
  • Bind the center hole and the slit with bias tape or folded fabric strips to finish the raw edges and prevent fraying.
  • Add a button or snap at the slit opening so the skirt stays closed and looks neat when wrapped around the tree.

Measure your tree and choose your fabric

Start by measuring the width of your tree at its widest point near the base. If your tree is 48 inches wide, you want a skirt that extends about 12 to 18 inches beyond that width on all sides. That means your finished skirt diameter should be 48 + 24 to 36 inches, or 72 to 84 inches across. Write down this target diameter—you will use it to cut your circles.

Choose a fabric that suits your décor and your sewing skill. Cotton quilting fabric and home décor cotton are forgiving and straightforward to work with. Felt does not fray, which means you can skip binding the edges if you prefer a simpler finish. Velvet and fleece are soft but can be slippery to cut and sew; use a rotary cutter and a walking foot on your machine if you choose these. Avoid very stretchy knits unless you are comfortable stabilizing them with interfacing.

You will need two layers of fabric (for the front and back) plus a middle layer of batting or interfacing for body and durability. Batting adds weight and helps the skirt drape smoothly; interfacing is lighter and works if you prefer a thinner finish. Buy enough fabric to cut two circles of your target diameter, plus an extra 2 inches all around for cutting error. For a 72-inch skirt, that means buying fabric at least 76 inches long and as wide as your bolt allows (usually 44 to 60 inches).

Cut two circles and one batting layer

Fold your first piece of fabric in half, then in half again so it forms a quarter-circle. Tie a piece of string to a pencil or fabric marker. Measure from the folded corner (the center point) out to half your target diameter—for a 72-inch skirt, that is 36 inches. Hold the string at the center point, pull it taut to the pencil, and draw an arc across the folded fabric. Cut along the arc through all four layers. When you unfold it, you will have a complete circle.

Repeat this process with your second piece of fabric and your batting or interfacing. You now have three circles: two fabric circles and one batting circle, all the same size.

Lay one fabric circle right-side up on a flat surface. Place the batting circle on top of it, then place the second fabric circle on top of the batting, right-side down. The right sides of the fabric face outward; the batting is sandwiched in the middle. Pin the three layers together around the edge.

Cut the center hole and the opening slit

Before you sew, you need to mark where the tree trunk will go. Most tree trunks are 3 to 6 inches in diameter, so plan for a center hole about 8 inches across—this gives you room to slide the skirt over the trunk without forcing it. Measure 4 inches from the center point in all directions and draw a small circle with a pencil or marker.

Cut out this center circle through all three layers. Use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter for a clean edge. Then cut a straight line from the outer edge of the skirt all the way to the edge of the center hole. This slit is how the skirt will open and close around the trunk. Make it about 2 inches wide so it is straightforward to slide the skirt on and off.

Sew the layers together and bind the edges

Sew around the outer edge of the skirt with a 1/2-inch seam allowance, leaving a 6-inch opening so you can turn the layers right-side out. Use a straight stitch and backstitch at the beginning and end to lock the thread. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4 inch all the way around, cutting away the excess fabric close to the stitching line. This reduces bulk when you turn the skirt.

Turn the skirt right-side out through the 6-inch opening. Use a blunt tool like a chopstick or point turner to gently push the curved edge out from the inside. Press the skirt flat with an iron, paying special attention to the outer edge so it lies smooth. Fold the raw edges of the 6-inch opening inward and press them, then sew the opening closed with a ladder stitch (also called an invisible stitch) or a straightforward whip stitch by hand.

Now bind the center hole and the slit. Cut strips of bias tape or fold 1-inch-wide strips of fabric in half lengthwise and press them. Starting at one end of the slit, pin the bias tape around the center hole and along both sides of the slit, covering the raw edges. Sew the tape down with a straight stitch, then fold it to the back side and sew it down again by hand or machine. This finish prevents fraying and looks polished.

Add closure hardware and final details

The slit needs to stay closed when the skirt is wrapped around the tree. Sew a button to one side of the slit opening and make a buttonhole on the other side, or use a snap set (available at fabric stores) for a cleaner look. A snap is faster to fasten and unfasten each year, while a button adds a decorative touch if you choose one that matches your fabric.

If you want extra embellishment, add trim, appliqué, or embroidery before you sew the layers together. Topstitching around the outer edge (sewing 1/4 inch from the edge) adds definition and holds all three layers firmly in place. You can also add a ruffle or lace trim to the outer edge by sandwiching it between the two fabric circles before you sew.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make a tree skirt without batting?

Yes. Two layers of fabric alone will work, though the skirt may be limp and show wrinkles. If you skip batting, use a heavier fabric like canvas or home décor cotton, and consider adding topstitching around the edge to stabilize the layers and give the skirt more body.

What if my tree trunk is too thick to fit through the center hole?

Make the center hole larger—up to 10 or 12 inches in diameter if needed. You can also cut the slit wider (3 to 4 inches) so the skirt opens more easily. The goal is to slide the skirt on without bending branches or forcing the fabric.

How do I keep the skirt from sliding around the tree?

Sew a small loop of elastic or ribbon to the underside of the skirt, then loop it around the tree trunk. Alternatively, use a safety pin to anchor the slit closed to the tree stand or a branch. A snap or button closure also helps keep the slit from opening during the season.

Can I use a pattern instead of measuring and drawing?

Yes. Search for "tree skirt pattern" online or at a fabric store—many are free or cost a few dollars. Patterns often include multiple size options and detailed step-by-step instructions. Follow the pattern's yardage and cutting instructions instead of measuring your tree yourself.

What is the easiest fabric for a beginner?

Felt is the easiest because it does not fray, so you can skip binding the edges entirely. Cotton quilting fabric is also forgiving and widely available. Avoid velvet, fleece, and stretchy knits until you have made one skirt and are comfortable with your machine.