What a tube top is and why it's easier than you think
A tube top is a sleeveless garment that wraps around your chest and stays up without straps or a back closure. It's one of the fastest sewing projects you can make—most people finish one in an afternoon—because it's essentially a tube of fabric with elastic at the top and bottom. You don't need a pattern, a serger, or advanced skills. If you can sew a straight seam and thread elastic, you can make a tube top that fits.
The basic construction is always the same: cut a rectangle of fabric, sew the short ends together to form a tube, fold the top and bottom edges inward, insert elastic into those folds, and stitch them closed. The only real decision is how much fabric to use, which depends on your bust measurement and how snug you want the fit.
Key Takeaways
- Measure your bust and subtract 2 to 4 inches to find how wide your fabric rectangle should be; the length is usually 10 to 12 inches for a standard tube top.
- Use a lightweight knit or woven fabric like jersey, cotton, or linen; avoid heavy fabrics like denim or canvas, which won't drape properly.
- Sew the short ends of your rectangle together with a 1/2-inch seam allowance, then press the seam flat before inserting elastic.
- Thread 1-inch-wide elastic through the folded top and bottom edges using a safety pin or bodkin, then overlap the elastic ends by 1/2 inch and stitch them together.
- Try on the tube top before closing the elastic casings completely; you can adjust the tightness by moving the elastic before final stitching.
Measuring and cutting your fabric rectangle
Start by measuring your bust at the fullest point with a soft measuring tape. Write down that number. For a snug fit, subtract 2 inches from your bust measurement; for a looser fit, subtract 3 to 4 inches. That final number is the width of your fabric rectangle.
The length of the rectangle determines how much of your chest the tube top covers. Most tube tops are 10 to 12 inches long, which covers from just below the armpit to the bottom of the rib cage. If you want it shorter or longer, adjust by an inch or two. Cut your fabric rectangle to those dimensions, making sure the edges are straight and the corners are square.
If your fabric has a pattern or nap (like velvet or corduroy), cut the rectangle so the pattern runs the same direction on both short ends. This matters because when you sew the ends together, the pattern will be upside down on one side if you're not careful.
Choosing the right fabric and notions
Lightweight knit fabrics like jersey, cotton-spandex blends, and interlock work best for tube tops because they stretch slightly and move with your body. Woven fabrics like cotton poplin, linen, and quilting cotton also work well if you don't mind a stiffer feel. Avoid heavy fabrics like denim, canvas, or fleece—they won't drape smoothly and the elastic will bunch.
You'll need 1-inch-wide elastic for the top and bottom casings. Braided elastic or fold-over elastic both work; braided elastic is cheaper and easier to find, while fold-over elastic (which wraps around the fabric edge) gives a more finished look. Buy enough elastic to go around your bust measurement plus 1 inch for overlap. For a tube top with a 30-inch bust measurement, buy 31 inches of elastic for the top and 31 inches for the bottom.
Have on hand a needle that matches your fabric weight, thread that matches your fabric color, scissors, pins, a measuring tape, and a safety pin or bodkin (a blunt needle used to thread elastic). If you don't have a bodkin, a safety pin works just as well.
Sewing the tube and preparing the casings
Fold your fabric rectangle in half lengthwise with the right sides facing each other, so the short ends line up. Pin along the short edge you're about to sew. Using a 1/2-inch seam allowance, sew the short ends together with a straight stitch. Backstitch at the beginning and end to lock the thread. You now have a tube.
Press the seam flat with an iron on medium heat. This step matters because a flat seam is easier to work with and looks neater. Turn the tube right-side out so the seam is on the inside.
Now you'll create casings for the elastic at the top and bottom. Fold the top edge of the tube down 1 1/4 inches toward the inside and press with your iron. This fold creates a channel that's wide enough for 1-inch elastic to slide through. Do the same at the bottom edge. Pin the folds in place so they don't shift while you sew.
Inserting and securing the elastic
Attach a safety pin to one end of your elastic. Push the safety pin into the casing at the top of the tube, feeding the elastic through the fold. The safety pin acts as a guide and keeps the elastic from bunching. Work slowly and push the elastic all the way around until both ends of the elastic come out the same opening.
Overlap the two ends of the elastic by 1/2 inch. Sew them together with a zigzag stitch or a narrow rectangle stitch, stitching back and forth several times to make sure the join is strong. This is the most important seam in the whole project—if it breaks, the elastic will pull out of the casing.
Once the elastic is joined, push it all the way into the casing so the seam is hidden. Now stitch the opening of the casing closed with a straight stitch, sewing as close to the fold as you can. This stitch locks the elastic in place and closes the gap. Repeat the same process for the bottom casing.
Trying on and adjusting before final stitching
Before you close the elastic casings completely, try on the tube top. Pull it up over your chest and see how it feels. If it's too tight, you can loosen it by gently pulling the elastic out slightly and re-stitching. If it's too loose, you can tighten it by pushing the elastic in and taking a tighter stitch. This is your chance to get the fit right without having to rip out seams.
Once you're happy with the fit, stitch the casing openings closed if you haven't already. Use a straight stitch and sew back and forth a few times to make sure the opening is sealed. Trim any loose threads with scissors.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
The most common mistake is making the fabric rectangle too wide. If you subtract only 1 inch from your bust measurement instead of 2 to 4 inches, the tube top will be too loose and won't stay up. Test the fit before you sew the seam, or measure twice and cut once.
Another mistake is using elastic that's too narrow or too loose. If your elastic is less than 1 inch wide, it won't grip your skin well enough to hold the tube top up. If you don't overlap the elastic ends by at least 1/2 inch when you join them, the seam can come apart. Always backstitch or use a zigzag stitch when joining elastic.
Skipping the pressing step is also common. Pressing the side seam flat and pressing the casings before you insert elastic makes the whole project faster and neater. Wrinkled fabric is harder to sew through and looks sloppy when you're done.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I make a tube top without elastic?
You can, but it won't stay up on its own. Without elastic, you'd need to add straps or a back closure, which defeats the purpose of a tube top. Elastic is what makes the design work, and it's inexpensive and straightforward to find at any fabric store.
What if my fabric is stretchy and keeps rolling?
Knit fabrics can curl at the edges, especially if you're not used to working with them. Fold-over elastic is designed to wrap around the raw edge and prevent rolling. If you use regular braided elastic, fold the fabric edge under 1/4 inch before you fold it again to create the casing—this double fold prevents curling.
How do I make the tube top longer or shorter?
Change the length of your fabric rectangle. If you want it 2 inches longer, cut a rectangle that's 14 inches long instead of 12. The width stays the same—it's based on your bust measurement, not the length.
Can I add a pattern or design to a plain tube top?
Yes. You can add embroidery, appliqué, or fabric paint before you sew the seam. Just make sure any design you add is at least 1 inch away from the top and bottom edges, so it won't be hidden by the casings. Let any paint or glue dry completely before you start sewing.
What should I do if the elastic shows through the fabric?
If your fabric is thin or light-colored, the elastic may be visible through the casing. Use a casing color that matches your fabric, or choose a darker fabric that won't show the elastic underneath. You can also use fold-over elastic in a matching color, which covers the raw edge and looks more polished.