What a valance is and why you might sew one
A valance is a short curtain or fabric panel that covers the top of a window, usually hanging above the main curtains or alone. It hides the curtain rod and the gap between the window frame and the wall. Sewing your own valance costs less than buying one finished, and you can choose the exact fabric, length, and style you want.
A basic valance takes an afternoon to sew if you have a machine and know how to thread it. You do not need advanced skills — a straight seam and a hem are the only stitches involved. The hardest part is measuring your window correctly and cutting the fabric straight.
Key Takeaways
- Measure your window width and add 4 to 8 inches for fullness, then add 1 inch for seam allowance on each side.
- Cut your fabric on the grain line using a ruler and rotary cutter, or mark with chalk and cut with scissors.
- Sew the side seams first, press them flat, then fold and sew the bottom hem before attaching the top casing.
- The top casing is a folded strip of fabric that slides onto the curtain rod, so its width depends on your rod diameter.
- A lined valance hides raw edges and looks more finished, but an unlined one works fine and takes less time.
Measuring and choosing your fabric
Start by measuring the width of your window opening or the curtain rod itself. A valance should be at least as wide as the rod. Add 4 to 8 inches to that measurement for fullness — this is the gentle fold you see when fabric hangs. Then add 1 inch total for seam allowance (half an inch on each side).
For the length, decide how far down the window you want the valance to go. Most valances are 12 to 18 inches long, but yours can be shorter or longer. Add 1 inch for the top casing (the folded edge that holds the rod) and 1.5 inches for the bottom hem. That is your cutting length.
Buy fabric with a small, all-over pattern or a solid color if you are new to sewing — stripes and large prints require matching at the seams and take longer. Cotton or cotton-blend fabric is easiest to work with. You will need one length of fabric for an unlined valance, or two lengths if you want to line it. Bring your measurements to the fabric store and ask the staff to cut it straight across the grain.
Cutting and preparing the fabric
Lay your fabric on a clean, flat surface with the wrong side (the back) facing up. Use a rotary cutter and a ruler to cut a straight line along the top and bottom edges. If you do not have a rotary cutter, use a ruler and tailor's chalk to mark a line, then cut with sharp fabric scissors. Crooked edges will show when the valance hangs, so take your time here.
Cut the side edges straight as well. If your fabric is wider than you need, trim it to your width measurement plus 1 inch for seam allowance. Press the entire piece with an iron on medium heat to remove wrinkles and creases.
Sewing the side seams
Fold the fabric in half lengthwise with the right side (the front) facing inward. Pin the two short ends together. Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.5 to 3 millimeters. Sew down each side with a half-inch seam allowance — this means the needle should be half an inch from the edge of the fabric.
Backstitch at the start and end of each seam to lock the thread. Remove the pins as you sew. When both sides are sewn, turn the valance right-side out through the opening at the top. Use a point turner or the handle of a wooden spoon to push the corners out so they are sharp and square. Press the side seams flat with an iron.
Hemming the bottom edge
Lay the valance flat with the right side facing up. Fold the bottom edge up by half an inch and press it with an iron. Fold it up again by 1 inch and press. Pin the fold in place. Sew close to the inner fold line with a straight stitch, backstitching at the start and end. Remove the pins and press the hem flat.
If you want a wider hem that looks more polished, fold the bottom edge up by 1 inch, then fold it up again by 1.5 inches. Press and sew the same way. A wider hem is sturdier and hides raw edges better, but it takes a little more fabric.
Creating and attaching the top casing
The casing is the folded channel at the top of the valance that holds the curtain rod. Measure the diameter of your rod — most standard rods are 1.25 inches around. Add half an inch to that measurement for ease, then double it. That is how wide your casing fold should be.
Fold the top edge of the valance down by half an inch and press it. Then fold it down again by the casing width you calculated and press. Pin the fold in place. Sew close to the bottom edge of the fold with a straight stitch, backstitching at the start and end. Sew a second line of stitching close to the top edge of the fold for strength. Remove the pins and press.
Slide the curtain rod through the casing. If it is tight, the casing is too narrow — you can carefully cut a small slit in the back and add a snap or hook to close it. If it is loose, the valance will slide around, but it will still hang and look fine.
Lining your valance (optional)
A lined valance looks more finished and blocks light better. Cut a piece of lining fabric to the same width and length as your main fabric. Place the lining and main fabric right sides together and pin all four edges. Sew around three sides with a half-inch seam allowance, leaving the top edge open. Trim the corners at an angle to reduce bulk, then turn right-side out and press.
Fold the open top edges inward by half an inch and press. Pin them closed. Topstitch (sew on the right side) close to the fold to seal the opening. Then proceed with the casing as described above — the casing will go through both layers of fabric, which makes it stronger.
Hanging and adjusting your valance
Slide the valance onto the rod and position it where you want it. If the rod is mounted inside the window frame, the valance will sit inside too. If the rod is mounted above the frame, the valance will cover the top of the window and part of the wall. Both look good — it depends on your window and your preference.
Step back and look at how the fabric hangs. If one side is higher than the other, the rod may not be level, or the fabric may have stretched. You can adjust by sliding the valance along the rod or by taking a small tuck in the casing on the side that is too long. If the valance is wrinkled, lightly mist it with water and let it air-dry, or use a steamer on low heat.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I sew a valance without a sewing machine?
Yes, but it takes much longer. You can hand-sew a valance using a running stitch or a backstitch, which are the two strongest hand stitches. Use a needle and thread rated for your fabric weight, and make stitches about one-eighth inch apart. A valance sewn by hand will hold up fine as long as your stitches are even and tight.
What if my window is very wide?
If your window is wider than the fabric width available, you will need to sew two or more pieces together. Cut the pieces to the same length, then sew them together along the side seams before you hem the bottom. Match any pattern carefully so the seam is not obvious. Press the seam flat and open it with an iron before you proceed with the rest of the valance.
How do I make a scalloped or shaped valance?
After you sew the side seams and turn the valance right-side out, mark your scallop or shape on the bottom edge with tailor's chalk. Sew along the line with a straight stitch, then trim the excess fabric close to the seam. Finish the raw edge with a zigzag stitch or bias tape. This takes more time and is easier if you have made a few straight valances first.
What thread color should I use?
Use thread that matches your fabric as closely as possible. If your fabric is a solid color, buy thread in the same color. If your fabric is a pattern, choose a thread color that matches the dominant color in the pattern. Thread that matches will make your seams nearly invisible.
Can I wash my valance?
Check the care label on your fabric. Most cotton and cotton-blend valances can be hand-washed in cool water or machine-washed on a gentle cycle. Remove the valance from the rod first. Lay it flat to dry or hang it to drip-dry. Press with an iron on medium heat if needed. Avoid the dryer, which can shrink fabric and damage the seams.