What a valance is and why you might sew one

A valance is a short curtain panel that hangs across the top of a window, usually between 12 and 18 inches deep. It covers the curtain rod and the upper part of the window, and it sits in front of or above longer curtains or alone. Sewing one yourself costs less than buying finished valances, and you can choose your own fabric, length, and style.

A basic valance is one of the easiest sewing projects because it requires no complicated shaping, no zipper, and no lining unless you want one. You are essentially sewing a rectangle of fabric, hemming the edges, and adding a rod pocket—the tunnel at the top that holds the curtain rod. Most valances take an afternoon to complete, even for someone new to sewing.

Key Takeaways

  • Measure your window width and add 4 to 8 inches for fullness, then measure the depth you want (usually 12 to 18 inches) and add 1 inch for the rod pocket plus 1.5 inches for the bottom hem.
  • Cut your fabric to size, then sew a double fold on the bottom edge and single folds on the left and right sides before adding the rod pocket at the top.
  • The rod pocket is a sewn tunnel at the top of the valance that holds the curtain rod; it is typically 2 to 2.5 inches deep depending on your rod diameter.
  • Press your fabric with an iron after each sewing step to keep edges flat and make the next step easier.
  • Hang the finished valance on a standard curtain rod using the same hardware you would use for regular curtains.

Measuring and calculating fabric size

Start by measuring the width of your window or the width of the area you want the valance to cover. Measure from the outside edge of one side of the window frame to the outside edge of the other side. Write this number down.

Add 4 to 8 inches to that width for fullness—the gentle folds that form when fabric hangs on a rod. If your window is 48 inches wide, your fabric width should be 52 to 56 inches. Wider windows can use the smaller multiplier; narrower windows often look better with more fullness.

For the length, decide how deep you want the valance to hang. Most valances are 12 to 18 inches from the rod to the bottom edge. Add 1 inch for the rod pocket (the tunnel that holds the rod) and 1.5 inches for the bottom hem. If you want a 14-inch-deep valance, cut your fabric 16.5 inches long (14 + 1 + 1.5).

If your fabric width is less than your needed width, you will need to sew two or more panels together along the vertical edges. Sew them with a half-inch seam allowance, press the seam open, and treat the joined piece as one piece of fabric from that point forward.

Preparing fabric and cutting

Wash and dry your fabric if the manufacturer recommends it, or if you think it might shrink. Press the entire piece with an iron set to the heat level appropriate for your fabric type. Wrinkles make it hard to cut straight and sew even seams.

Lay the fabric flat on a clean, large surface—a cutting table, a bed, or the floor. Use a measuring tape and a fabric pencil or chalk to mark the dimensions you calculated. Mark the width along the top and bottom edges, and the length along the left and right edges. Use a rotary cutter and a straight edge, or scissors, to cut along your marks. Cut as straight as you can; crooked edges are harder to hem evenly.

Sewing the side and bottom hems

Lay the fabric flat with the wrong side (the back) facing up. Fold the left edge toward the wrong side by half an inch. Press this fold with an iron. Fold it again by another half inch so the raw edge is now hidden inside the fold. Press again. This is a double fold hem, and it looks neat on both sides of the finished valance.

Sew along the inner fold line using a straight stitch and a thread color that matches your fabric. Sew slowly and keep the needle about an eighth of an inch from the fold. Backstitch at the beginning and end to lock the thread. Repeat this process on the right edge.

Now fold the bottom edge the same way: half inch, press, half inch again, press. Sew along the inner fold line. The bottom hem is usually wider than the side hems because it is more visible, so some people make it three-quarters of an inch instead of half an inch. Either width works.

Creating the rod pocket

The rod pocket is the tunnel at the top of the valance that slides onto the curtain rod. Fold the top edge of the fabric down toward the wrong side by 1 inch. Press this fold. Fold it down again by 1.5 inches (or whatever depth you need for your rod diameter—measure your rod and add a quarter inch for ease). Press this fold as well.

Sew along the bottom edge of this fold using a straight stitch. This creates the tunnel. Backstitch at both ends. If you want the rod pocket to look finished on the back, you can sew a second line of stitching half an inch above the first line, but this is optional and mostly decorative.

Some people sew a second line of stitching at the very top of the valance, just below the fold, to reinforce the rod pocket and prevent it from stretching. This is a good idea if your valance will be heavy or if you plan to move it often.

Pressing and finishing

Press the entire valance with an iron on the appropriate heat setting for your fabric. Pay special attention to the hems and the rod pocket—pressing makes them lie flat and look professional. Let the valance cool completely before you move it.

Check all your seams and hems for loose threads and trim them with scissors. Look at the rod pocket from the back to make sure the stitching is straight and even. If you see puckering or uneven stitches, you can carefully pick out the thread with a seam ripper and sew again.

Hanging the finished valance

Slide the valance onto your curtain rod. If the rod is already mounted on the window, you may need to remove one end cap or bracket to thread the valance on. Slide it all the way across, then replace the end cap. Adjust the fabric so it hangs evenly and the folds drape naturally.

If the valance is too wide or too narrow once it is hung, you can remove it and adjust the side seams. If it is too long or too short, you can remove the rod pocket stitching, trim the fabric, and re-sew the rod pocket. These adjustments are easier to make before you hang it permanently, so take time to check the fit before you call the job done.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I line a valance to make it look fuller or block light?

Yes. Cut lining fabric to the same size as your main fabric, sew them together along three sides with a half-inch seam allowance (leaving the top open), turn the piece right-side out, press, and then fold and sew the rod pocket as usual. The lining adds weight and body, and it hides the seams from the front.

What if my window is wider than the fabric I bought?

Sew two or more panels together along the vertical edges using a half-inch seam allowance. Press the seams open. Treat the joined piece as one piece of fabric and proceed with hemming and the rod pocket. The seam will be visible from the front, so choose a fabric pattern or color that hides seams well, or embrace the seam as part of the design.

How do I know what size rod pocket to make?

Measure the diameter of your curtain rod. Add a quarter inch for ease. That is your rod pocket depth. Most standard rods are one inch in diameter, so a 1.25-inch rod pocket works well. Thicker rods need deeper pockets.

Can I add a ruffle or trim to the bottom of a valance?

Yes. Sew the ruffle or trim to the bottom edge before you fold and sew the bottom hem. Lay the trim right-side down along the bottom edge, sew it on with a half-inch seam allowance, then fold the hem up and over the seam so the trim shows below the valance. Press and sew the hem as usual.

What thread color should I use?

Use thread that matches your fabric as closely as possible. If your fabric is a solid color, match that color. If your fabric is a pattern, choose a thread color that matches the dominant color or a neutral like tan or gray. Stitches are less visible when thread and fabric are the same color.