What You Need Before You Start

A varsity jacket is a structured garment with a knit collar, cuffs, and waistband, plus a wool or cotton body with contrasting sleeves. Sewing one requires more steps than a basic shirt, but the core techniques are straightforward: you will attach pieces in a specific order, insert ribbing at the edges, and add a lining. This guide walks you through each stage so you can build a jacket that fits and holds its shape.

Gather your materials first. You will need a varsity jacket pattern in your size (available from Simplicity, McCall's, or Vogue—search "men's varsity jacket" or "women's varsity jacket" depending on fit). You also need fabric: typically 2 to 2.5 yards of main fabric (wool, cotton twill, or a blend), 1 to 1.5 yards of contrasting fabric for sleeves, 1.5 yards of lining, and 1 to 2 yards of ribbing for the collar, cuffs, and waistband. A basic sewing kit includes thread, scissors, pins, a measuring tape, and a sewing machine. A serger is helpful but not required.

Before cutting, wash and dry all fabric according to the pattern instructions. Lay out your pattern pieces on the fabric, pin them down, and cut carefully. Mark all notches, darts, and construction lines with tailor's chalk or a fabric pen—these guide you during assembly.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut all pattern pieces and mark notches and darts before you begin sewing, because these marks guide every step of assembly.
  • Sew the shoulder seams and side seams of the body first, then attach the sleeves, working from the inside of the jacket.
  • Insert ribbing at the collar, cuffs, and waistband by folding it in half lengthwise and stitching it to the raw edges, then folding it to the inside and topstitching.
  • Attach the lining last, after all outer construction is complete, by hand-stitching it to the inside seams and armholes.
  • Press seams flat as you go and use a pressing ham or sleeve board to shape curved areas like armholes and sleeve caps.

Sewing the Body Pieces Together

Start with the main body of the jacket. Place the two front pieces and one back piece with right sides facing each other. Sew the shoulder seams using a straight stitch at 1/4 inch from the edge. Use a backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam to lock the thread. Press the seams open with an iron set to the appropriate temperature for your fabric—usually medium heat for cotton or wool.

Next, attach the side seams. Pin the front and back pieces together along the sides, matching the notches you marked during cutting. Sew from the armpit down to the hem, again using a 1/4-inch seam allowance. Press these seams open as well. At this point, you have a basic tube shape with a hole for the neck and two holes for the arms.

If your pattern includes darts (small triangular folds that shape the fabric), sew these now on the front or back pieces before attaching sleeves. Fold the dart with right sides together, pin it, and sew from the wide end to the point. Press the dart to one side, usually toward the center of the jacket.

Attaching the Sleeves

Sleeves are the trickiest part because the armhole is curved and the sleeve cap (the top of the sleeve) must fit smoothly into it. Start by sewing the underarm seam of each sleeve: fold the sleeve in half lengthwise with right sides together, and sew from the cuff end to the armpit. Press this seam open.

Now pin the sleeve into the armhole. Turn the jacket inside out and place the sleeve inside the armhole with right sides facing. Match the notches on the sleeve cap to the notches on the armhole—usually there is a notch at the shoulder seam and one or two on the front and back. Pin around the entire armhole, easing the sleeve cap to fit smoothly. If the sleeve cap is too full, gather it slightly by pulling the thread on a long basting stitch, but do not bunch it.

Sew the sleeve in place using a 1/4-inch seam allowance, sewing slowly around the curve. Use a pressing ham or rolled towel inside the sleeve to press the seam open after sewing. This prevents puckering and helps the sleeve hang straight.

Installing Ribbing at the Collar, Cuffs, and Waistband

Ribbing is a stretchy knit fabric that finishes the raw edges of a varsity jacket and gives it that classic look. Cut ribbing strips according to your pattern—usually 1.5 to 2 inches wide and long enough to wrap around the neckline, each cuff, and the waistband with a small overlap for seaming.

Start with the collar. Fold the ribbing strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together, so it is now half as wide. Pin it to the neckline of the jacket with right sides facing, stretching it slightly as you pin so it lies flat. The raw edges of the ribbing should align with the raw edge of the neckline. Sew it in place using a 1/4-inch seam allowance, stretching the ribbing gently as you sew to prevent puckering.

Fold the ribbing to the inside of the jacket and pin it down. Using a needle and thread that matches the ribbing, hand-stitch it to the inside seam with small stitches, or use a machine topstitch from the outside if you prefer a visible line. Repeat this process for each cuff and the waistband. Press everything flat when finished.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

The most common error is sewing the sleeves in backwards or upside down. Before you sew, check that the notches match and that the sleeve cap curves upward (not downward). A second mistake is stretching the ribbing too much while sewing it on, which causes it to bunch when you fold it to the inside. Stretch it just enough to keep it flat, not so much that it pulls.

Another frequent problem is pressing seams in the wrong direction. Always press seams open unless your pattern says otherwise—this reduces bulk and helps the jacket lie flat. If you press a seam to one side and then try to attach ribbing over it, the seam creates a ridge that shows on the outside.

Finally, do not skip the pressing ham. Pressing curved seams flat on a regular ironing board leaves creases. A pressing ham or even a rolled towel inside the sleeve or armhole lets you press without flattening the curve.

Attaching the Lining

The lining goes in last and is usually hand-stitched to hide the seams inside the jacket. Cut and sew the lining pieces the same way you sewed the outer jacket—shoulder seams, side seams, and sleeves. Do not attach ribbing to the lining; instead, leave the neckline, cuffs, and waistband raw.

Turn the lining inside out and slip it inside the jacket, with wrong sides of the lining and jacket facing each other. Pin the lining to the jacket along the neckline, armholes, and waistband. Using a needle and thread that matches the lining, hand-stitch the lining to the seams inside the jacket with small, invisible stitches. This is called a slip stitch: bring the needle up through the fold of the lining, cross over to the seam allowance of the jacket, and come back through the fold of the lining a quarter inch away. Repeat all the way around.

At the cuffs, fold the raw edge of the lining under and hand-stitch it to the inside of the cuff, just below the ribbing. This creates a finished edge that will not fray.

Final Pressing and Finishing Touches

Once the lining is attached, press the entire jacket on both sides using a pressing cloth (a thin cotton cloth placed between the iron and the fabric) to protect the fabric. Pay special attention to the collar, cuffs, and waistband—press them so they lie flat and the ribbing is smooth.

Check all seams for loose threads and trim them. If you used a serger on any seams, the edges are already finished. If you used a regular sewing machine, you can finish the raw edges inside the jacket with a zigzag stitch or pinking shears to prevent fraying, though this is optional if the jacket will not be washed frequently.

Try on the jacket and check the fit. The shoulders should sit at the edge of your shoulder bone, the sleeves should end at your wrist bone, and the waistband should sit at your natural waist. If adjustments are needed, you can take in or let out side seams or sleeve seams, but this requires unpicking and re-sewing.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between a varsity jacket and a bomber jacket?

A varsity jacket has a structured body with a knit collar, cuffs, and waistband, and contrasting sleeves. A bomber jacket is usually made of one fabric throughout, has a shorter length, and often has a full front zipper. Varsity jackets button down the front, while bombers zip. The sewing process is similar, but the pattern pieces and ribbing placement differ.

Can I use a regular sewing machine, or do I need a serger?

A regular sewing machine is fine. A serger finishes raw edges and sews seams in one step, which looks more professional, but it is not required. With a regular machine, you can finish edges with a zigzag stitch or pinking shears after sewing the seams.

How do I know if the sleeves are the right length?

When your arms hang at your sides, the sleeve should end at your wrist bone. If the cuff is too long or short, you can adjust it by unpicking the cuff seam, shortening or lengthening the sleeve, and re-attaching the ribbing. Make small adjustments—a quarter inch makes a noticeable difference.

What weight of fabric works best for a varsity jacket?

Medium to heavy-weight fabrics hold their shape best. Wool melton, cotton twill, and cotton canvas are traditional choices. Avoid lightweight fabrics like cotton voile or linen, which will not support the structured look. Check your pattern for fabric weight recommendations.

Do I have to hand-stitch the lining, or can I machine-stitch it?

Hand-stitching is traditional and creates invisible seams, but you can machine-stitch the lining if you prefer. If you machine-stitch, use a matching thread and a straight stitch close to the seam, or use a topstitch for a visible decorative line. Hand-stitching takes longer but looks more polished.