The basic process: what you are making
A lined vest has two fabric layers — an outer shell and an inner lining — sewn together at the seams and edges so they move as one piece. The lining hides your seams and thread, gives the vest structure, and makes it comfortable to wear over other clothes. You sew the outer pieces together first, then the lining pieces separately, then join them by stitching around the armholes and front opening.
This method works for any vest pattern: a straightforward sleeveless shell, a structured tailored vest, or a quilted gilet. The steps stay the same. You will need two sets of pattern pieces cut from two different fabrics, a sewing machine, thread that matches both fabrics, and a needle.
Key Takeaways
- Cut and sew the outer vest and lining as two separate garments, then join them by stitching around the armholes and front opening with right sides facing.
- Press all seams flat before you join the layers, so the finished vest lies smooth and the seams do not bunch.
- Leave a 3- to 4-inch opening in the lining seam at the side or shoulder so you can turn the vest right-side out and close it by hand.
- Topstitch around the armholes and front edges after turning to hold the layers in place and give the vest a finished look.
Cut your pattern pieces from both fabrics
Lay out your vest pattern on the outer fabric and cut all the pieces you need: front panels, back panel, and any side panels or darts. Mark the grain line and any notches or construction marks with tailor's chalk or a fabric pen. Do the same with the lining fabric, using the same pattern pieces.
If your pattern calls for interfacing — a stiffening layer used in tailored vests — explore it to the outer fabric pieces now, before you sew anything. Fuse it to the wrong side of the front and back pieces according to the interfacing package directions. This gives the vest body and helps it hold its shape.
Sew the outer vest together
Pin the front panels to the back panel at the shoulder seams, right sides facing. Sew along the shoulder seams with a straight stitch, using a seam allowance that matches your pattern (usually 5/8 inch). Sew the side seams the same way. Press all seams open or to one side, depending on your pattern instructions.
If your pattern includes darts, sew those before you join the panels. Fold the dart along the marked line, pin it, and sew from the wide end to the point. Press the dart to one side when you are done.
Sew the lining the same way
Repeat the steps above with the lining pieces: pin the front panels to the back panel at the shoulders, sew, then sew the side seams. Press all seams. The lining should now be the same shape as the outer vest, just made from a different fabric.
Do not attach the lining to the outer vest yet. You have two separate pieces that will be joined in the next steps.
Join the outer vest and lining at the armholes and front
Place the outer vest and lining with right sides facing — the pretty sides of both fabrics touching each other. Pin around the armholes and the entire front opening (both front edges and neckline). Make sure the shoulder seams line up.
Sew around the armholes and front opening with a 5/8-inch seam allowance. Leave a 3- to 4-inch opening in one of the side seams of the lining — this is your turning opening. Sew all the way around the armholes and front, but stop and start at that opening so you do not sew it closed.
Trim the seam allowance to 1/4 inch around the armholes and front edges to reduce bulk. Clip into the seam allowance at the curves (the armholes and neckline) so the fabric will lie flat when you turn it right-side out. Clip straight toward the stitching line but do not cut through it.
Turn the vest right-side out and close the opening
Reach through the opening in the lining and pull the entire vest through it, turning it right-side out. The outer fabric is now on the outside and the lining is on the inside, where it belongs. Push out the corners and curves gently with your fingers or a blunt tool so they are sharp and even.
Press the vest flat, paying special attention to the armholes and front edges. Fold the raw edges of the opening inward by 1/2 inch and pin them closed. Sew the opening shut by hand using a ladder stitch (also called an invisible stitch), which closes the gap without showing thread on the outside.
Topstitch the edges for a finished look
Topstitching — a visible line of stitching on the outside of the garment — holds the layers together and gives the vest a professional finish. Set your machine to a straight stitch and thread it with thread that matches your outer fabric.
Sew around the armholes about 1/4 inch from the edge. Then sew around the front opening (both front edges and neckline) the same distance from the edge. Sew slowly and keep the line even. This stitching is visible, so take your time.
If your vest has a hem at the bottom, fold the raw edge up by 1/2 inch, press it, and topstitch it the same way. Press the entire vest one more time when you are done.
Frequently Asked Questions
What if I do not have a pattern?
You can buy a vest pattern from a fabric store or read one online. Patterns come with all the pieces you need and instructions for your size. If you are new to sewing, choose a pattern marked "beginner" or "straightforward" — these have fewer pieces and simpler construction.
Can I use any fabric for the lining?
Lining fabric should be smooth and slippery so it slides easily over your clothes. Cotton sateen, rayon, and silk work well. Avoid heavy fabrics like denim or canvas for the lining — they will make the vest stiff and uncomfortable to wear. The lining can be a different color or pattern than the outer fabric.
What is the ladder stitch and why do I need it?
The ladder stitch closes a seam from the inside so no stitches show on the outside. Bring your needle out through the fold of fabric on one side, cross to the other side, and go back into the fold. Slide the needle along inside the fold for about 1/4 inch, then come back out and cross to the other side again. The thread runs inside the fold and is invisible when you pull it tight.
Do I have to topstitch the vest?
Topstitching is not required, but it serves two purposes: it holds the outer fabric and lining together so they do not shift, and it gives the vest a finished, professional look. If you skip it, the layers may move separately when you wear the vest. A straightforward line of topstitching around the armholes takes only a few minutes and makes a big difference.
What if my seams are bulky at the corners?
Trim the seam allowance to 1/4 inch or less at the corners and curves before you turn the vest right-side out. At the corners where two seams meet, trim one seam allowance shorter than the other so they do not stack on top of each other. This reduces bulk and helps the corners lie flat.