A basic wallet takes an afternoon and costs almost nothing
A sewn wallet is a rectangle of fabric folded and stitched, with card slots added inside. You can make one in two to four hours with a needle, thread, scissors, and fabric scraps you probably have at home. The finished wallet holds cards, cash, and coins in separate pockets, and costs between nothing and five dollars depending on whether you use leftover fabric or buy new material.
This guide walks you through the standard construction: a two-layer exterior, an interior lining, three card slots, and a coin pocket. You do not need a sewing machine — hand stitching works just as well and takes longer only by about an hour. The seams are straight lines, the math is straightforward, and mistakes are forgiving because a wallet is small and you can unpick and restart without wasting much fabric.
Key Takeaways
- A basic wallet is two pieces of fabric sewn together with card slots stitched inside, and you can make one by hand in an afternoon.
- You need fabric scraps, thread, a needle, scissors, and a ruler or measuring tape — no machine required.
- The exterior is typically 4 inches by 8 inches when folded, which means you cut a piece 4 inches by 16 inches and fold it in half.
- Card slots are strips of fabric stitched to the lining before the two layers are joined, so mistakes inside are hidden.
- A coin pocket is optional and sits at the bottom of the interior, held by stitching along three sides.
What you need to gather before you start
Fabric: Two pieces of cotton, linen, or quilting fabric, each 4 inches by 16 inches. These form the exterior. You also need one piece of lining fabric (cotton or a lighter cotton blend) the same size. If you do not have scraps, a fat quarter from a fabric store costs two to four dollars and gives you enough for several wallets. Avoid stretchy fabrics like jersey or knits — they fray and shift as you sew.
Thread: One spool of thread that matches your fabric or contrasts intentionally. Polyester or cotton thread both work. You need only a small amount, so a single spool lasts through many wallets.
Tools: A needle (size 70/10 or 80/12 for cotton fabric), scissors that cut fabric cleanly, a ruler or measuring tape, and a pencil or fabric marker to mark fold lines and stitch lines. A straight pin or two helps hold fabric in place while you sew, though you can work without them.
Optional: A coin pocket requires a fourth piece of fabric, 3 inches by 4 inches. Card slots can be made from contrasting fabric scraps or the same material as the lining.
How to cut and prepare your pieces
Cut your exterior fabric into two rectangles, each 4 inches wide by 16 inches long. These two pieces will be sewn together around the edges, then folded in half to create the wallet shape. Cut your lining the same size. If you are adding a coin pocket, cut that piece to 3 inches by 4 inches.
For card slots, cut three strips from your lining fabric or contrasting fabric, each 1.5 inches wide by 3.5 inches long. These will be folded and stitched inside the wallet to hold cards. Fold each strip in half lengthwise (so it becomes 0.75 inches wide) and press the fold with your fingers or a warm iron to crease it.
Lay out your lining piece on a flat surface. This is where you will attach the card slots and coin pocket before joining the exterior pieces. Mark light pencil lines on the lining to show where each slot will go: the first slot about 0.5 inches from the top, the second about 2 inches from the top, and the third about 3.5 inches from the top. These measurements are approximate — adjust them to fit your preference.
Sewing the card slots to the lining
Take your first folded card slot strip and lay it on the lining with the folded edge facing up and the raw edges facing down. Position it along your pencil line. Pin it in place if you have pins, or hold it steady with your fingers. Thread your needle and tie a knot at the end.
Stitch along the folded edge of the strip using a running stitch (in and out of the fabric in a straight line, about 0.125 inches apart). Sew from one end of the strip to the other, keeping your stitches as even as you can. When you reach the end, tie off the thread on the back of the lining. Repeat this process for the second and third card slots.
Once all three slots are sewn, stitch along the bottom edge of each slot to close the pocket. This creates a channel where a card can slide in from the top. Use the same running stitch, sewing about 0.125 inches from the bottom edge of the strip.
Adding a coin pocket (optional)
If you want a coin pocket, fold your 3-by-4-inch piece in half with the right sides facing each other (the pretty sides touching). Sew along two of the three open sides using a running stitch, leaving one short end open. Turn the pocket right-side out through the opening and press it flat with your fingers.
Position this pocket at the bottom of your lining piece, with the open end facing up. Pin or hold it in place. Stitch around three sides of the pocket (the bottom and two sides) to attach it to the lining. Leave the top open so you can drop coins in. Tie off your thread when you finish.
Assembling the wallet layers
Lay one exterior piece flat with the right side (pretty side) facing up. Place your lining piece on top of it with the right side facing down (so the card slots and coin pocket are sandwiched between the two exterior pieces). Place your second exterior piece on top with the right side facing down. You now have a stack: exterior (right side up), lining (right side down), exterior (right side down).
Pin around all four edges if you have pins, or hold the stack steady. Starting at one corner, sew around the entire perimeter using a running stitch, staying about 0.25 inches from the edge. Sew along the top, down one side, along the bottom, and up the other side. Leave a 2-inch opening on one of the long sides — this is where you will turn the wallet right-side out.
Trim the corners of your sewn stack at a 45-degree angle, cutting away the excess fabric about 0.125 inches from your stitching. This reduces bulk when you turn the wallet right-side out and makes the corners lie flat.
Turning and finishing the wallet
Reach through the 2-inch opening and gently pull the wallet right-side out. Push the corners out fully using the blunt end of a pencil or your fingernail. Press the wallet flat with your fingers or a warm iron, making sure the opening is folded inward neatly.
Stitch the opening closed using a ladder stitch (also called an invisible stitch). Bring your needle up through the fold of fabric on one side of the opening, then across to the opposite side and down through its fold. Move along the opening a quarter-inch and repeat. This stitch hides inside the fold and is nearly invisible when finished. Tie off your thread when the opening is closed.
Fold your wallet in half along its length so it becomes 4 inches by 8 inches. Press the fold firmly. If you want, stitch along the fold line using a running stitch to reinforce it, though this is optional. Your wallet is now finished and ready to use.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a sewing machine instead of hand stitching?
Yes. Use a straight stitch and sew about 0.25 inches from the edge, the same as you would by hand. A machine is faster but hand stitching gives you more control on small pieces and is easier to unpick if you make a mistake.
What happens if my stitches are uneven or loose?
Uneven stitches do not affect how the wallet works. Loose stitches can be tightened by going over the same line again with fresh thread. If a seam splits during use, you can stitch it closed from the outside — the repair will be visible but functional.
Can I make the wallet bigger or smaller?
Yes. A smaller wallet might be 3 inches by 12 inches (folded to 3 by 6), and a larger one might be 5 inches by 18 inches (folded to 5 by 9). Adjust your card slot strips to fit the new height, keeping them about 0.5 inches shorter than the wallet width.
Do I need to use a specific type of fabric?
Cotton and linen work best because they do not fray excessively and hold their shape. Avoid stretchy knits and very thin fabrics. Quilting cotton is ideal because it is sturdy and comes in many patterns, but old cotton sheets or clothing work too.
What if I do not have a lining fabric?
You can make a wallet with just two exterior pieces and no lining. Sew them together, turn right-side out, and stitch card slots to the inside. The card slots will be visible, but the wallet will work the same way. Add a second layer of exterior fabric inside if you want more structure.