A zippered pocket starts with the zipper sandwiched between two fabric pieces
A zippered pocket is built by placing the zipper face-down between two pieces of fabric, sewing along both long edges of the zipper, then folding the fabric to the back so the zipper sits flush in the opening. The pocket itself — the bag or pouch that holds things — is sewn to the back of those two pieces. The result is a pocket you can open and close, with the zipper teeth hidden inside the seam and only the slider visible on the front.
The method works the same whether you are adding a pocket to a jacket, a tote bag, or a pair of pants. The main variables are the size of the zipper, the weight of your fabric, and whether you want the pocket opening on the outside of the garment or hidden on the inside. Most home sewers start with a 7-inch or 9-inch zipper and medium-weight cotton or linen.
Key Takeaways
- Cut two fabric rectangles slightly larger than your zipper length, place the zipper face-down between them, and sew along both long edges of the zipper tape using a zipper foot.
- Fold the fabric pieces to the back so the zipper slider faces outward, then topstitch close to the fold on both sides to create a clean, finished opening.
- Sew the pocket bag (the pouch that holds items) to the back of the two fabric pieces, leaving the zipper slider free to move.
- A zipper foot — a presser foot that rides alongside the zipper teeth instead of over them — is essential and costs between $8 and $15.
- Test your zipper on scrap fabric first; a stuck or stiff zipper will ruin the pocket, so choose a smooth, new zipper rated for your fabric weight.
What you need before you start
Gather a zipper (length depends on your pocket size, but 7 to 9 inches is standard), two rectangles of fashion fabric cut 1 inch wider and 1 inch taller than the zipper, two rectangles of lining or pocket fabric the same size, thread that matches your fashion fabric, and a zipper foot for your machine. A zipper foot is a narrow presser foot that lets you sew close to the zipper teeth without hitting them; it attaches to the presser bar the same way a regular foot does.
You will also need a seam ripper (to undo mistakes without damaging fabric), pins or fabric clips, and scissors or a rotary cutter. If you are adding the pocket to an existing garment, you need the garment itself and a way to mark where the pocket opening should sit — a fabric pencil or tailor's chalk works well.
Press all fabric pieces with an iron before you begin. Wrinkled fabric will shift under the presser foot and throw off your seam placement.
Sewing the zipper between the two fashion fabric pieces
Place one fashion fabric rectangle right-side up on your work surface. Lay the zipper face-down (slider facing down, teeth facing up) along the top long edge of the fabric, with the zipper tape aligned to the raw edge. Pin or clip the zipper in place. Attach the zipper foot to your machine, thread it with matching thread, and sew along the edge of the zipper tape closest to the teeth, using a stitch length of 2.5 to 3 millimeters. Sew from one end of the zipper to the other, staying as close to the teeth as the foot allows without hitting them.
Flip the fabric over so the zipper is now on top, facing up. Lay the second fashion fabric rectangle on top of the zipper, right-side down, so the zipper is sandwiched between the two pieces. Pin along the other long edge of the zipper tape. Sew along this edge the same way — close to the teeth, using the zipper foot, same stitch length. When you finish, you have a three-layer sandwich: fabric, zipper, fabric.
Press the seams flat with an iron on low heat. Do not press directly on the zipper slider; press the fabric on either side of it.
Folding the fabric and topstitching the opening
Open the zipper halfway. Fold both fabric pieces away from the zipper so the zipper slider faces outward and the seams you just sewed are hidden on the back. The zipper should now sit in a valley between the two folded edges. Press this fold with an iron to set the crease.
Topstitch (sew a visible line of stitching on the front) along both folded edges, about 1/8 inch away from the fold. Use a regular presser foot for this step, not the zipper foot. Sew slowly and keep the line straight and even. This topstitching serves two purposes: it holds the fold in place and it creates a finished, professional-looking frame around the zipper opening.
Open and close the zipper a few times to make sure it moves freely. If it catches or binds, stop and check for thread or fabric caught in the teeth. A stuck zipper at this stage is easier to fix than after the pocket bag is attached.
Attaching the pocket bag to the back
The pocket bag is the pouch that actually holds things. Cut two rectangles of lining or pocket fabric, each about 5 to 6 inches tall and the same width as your fashion fabric pieces. Place these two rectangles right-sides together and sew three sides, leaving one short end open. Trim the corners at a 45-degree angle (called clipping the corners) to reduce bulk, then turn the bag right-side out through the open end. Press flat with an iron.
Pin the open end of the pocket bag to the back of the zippered opening, aligning the raw edges. The zipper should be between the fashion fabric and the pocket bag, hidden from view. Sew around all four sides of the pocket bag using a 1/2-inch seam allowance, sewing through the fashion fabric, the zipper tape, and the pocket bag all at once. Backstitch at the start and end to lock the stitches.
Trim any loose threads and press the finished pocket with an iron on low heat. The zipper should open and close smoothly, and the pocket bag should feel find.
Finishing the pocket edges if you are adding it to a garment
If you are inserting this pocket into a jacket, bag, or pair of pants, the edges of the fashion fabric rectangles will be caught in the garment seams during construction. Finish those raw edges before you attach the pocket to the garment — use a zigzag stitch, a serger, or pinking shears to prevent fraying.
Mark the placement of the pocket on your garment using a fabric pencil or tailor's chalk. Pin the finished pocket in place, making sure the zipper opening is straight and centered where you want it. Sew the pocket to the garment along the outer edges of the fashion fabric, using a 1/2-inch seam allowance. This stitching will be hidden inside the garment seams once the garment is assembled.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
The most common error is sewing too far from the zipper teeth, which leaves a gap between the fabric and the zipper. The zipper foot exists to solve this — it rides right next to the teeth. If your machine did not come with a zipper foot, buy a universal one; they cost $8 to $15 and fit most machines.
A second mistake is using a zipper that is too stiff or too old. Zippers that have been in a drawer for years can stick or jam. Test any zipper on scrap fabric before you commit it to a project. If it does not slide smoothly, replace it.
A third mistake is sewing the pocket bag to the garment before testing the zipper. Once the pocket is fully attached, you cannot reach the zipper to fix it. Always open and close the zipper several times before you sew the pocket bag in place.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a regular presser foot instead of a zipper foot?
You can, but the result will be loose and uneven. A regular foot rides over the zipper teeth, forcing you to sew farther from the teeth than necessary. A zipper foot costs $8 to $15 and makes the difference between a pocket that looks handmade and one that looks professional. It is worth buying.
What size zipper should I use?
A 7-inch or 9-inch zipper works for most pockets. Measure the width of your pocket opening and choose a zipper that is 1 to 2 inches shorter than that width. The extra space lets you fold the fabric at each end without bunching. For a small bag or pouch, a 5-inch zipper is fine.
My zipper is stuck. Can I fix it?
Try rubbing a graphite pencil along the teeth on both sides, or use a small amount of silicone lubricant spray. If the zipper still does not move, it is damaged and you should replace it. Forcing a stuck zipper can break the slider or teeth, which ruins the pocket.
Do I have to use lining fabric for the pocket bag?
No. You can use the same fabric as the fashion pieces, or any lightweight cotton. Lining fabric is smooth and does not fray as easily, so it wears longer. If you use regular cotton, finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch or pinking shears to prevent fraying inside the pocket.
Can I add a zippered pocket to a finished garment?
Yes, but it is more difficult. You have to cut a hole in the finished garment, bind the edges, and sew the pocket in place without disturbing the surrounding seams. Most sewers add zippered pockets during construction, before the garment is assembled. If you must add one to a finished piece, use a seam ripper to open a seam, insert the pocket, and resew the seam by hand or machine.