What you need to sew an apron

A basic apron requires fabric, thread, bias tape for the edges, and a few straightforward tools. You will need one piece of fabric roughly 24 inches wide by 28 inches long—a kitchen cotton or linen works well and does not fray as badly as thinner materials. You will also need bias tape, which is pre-folded fabric strip sold in rolls at fabric stores; a 3-yard roll covers most aprons. The tape finishes raw edges and creates the neck strap and waist ties.

For tools, gather a sewing machine (hand-sewing is possible but takes much longer), thread that matches or complements your fabric, scissors or a rotary cutter, pins, and a measuring tape. A seam ripper is useful if you make mistakes and need to undo stitches. You do not need a pattern—the measurements given here work for most adults, and you can adjust the width and length to fit your body.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut your fabric to 24 inches wide by 28 inches long, then trim the top corners at an angle to create armholes.
  • Sew bias tape around all edges of the apron body, starting with the sides and bottom, then the top.
  • Attach a long bias tape strip as the neck strap and two strips as waist ties, sewing them securely at stress points.
  • Backstitch at the start and end of every seam to prevent stitches from unraveling when you wear the apron.
  • Press seams flat with an iron after sewing to make the apron lie smooth and look finished.

Cutting the fabric and shaping the armholes

Start with your rectangle of fabric laid flat on a cutting surface. Measure and mark 24 inches across the width and 28 inches down the length, then cut along those lines. This creates the main body of the apron. Now you need to cut the top corners at an angle so the apron sits comfortably on your shoulders without bunching.

At the top left corner, measure down 3 inches from the top edge and mark a point. Measure in 2 inches from the left edge and mark another point. Draw a diagonal line connecting these two points, then cut along that line. Repeat on the top right corner, measuring down 3 inches and in 2 inches from the right edge. These angled cuts create the armholes. Press the fabric flat with an iron to remove wrinkles before you begin sewing.

Attaching bias tape to the sides and bottom

Bias tape comes folded in half lengthwise. Open it so it lies flat, then position it along the right side of your apron body with the right sides of the fabric and tape facing each other. The raw edge of the tape should align with the raw edge of the fabric. Pin the tape in place every few inches, then sew along the crease line that runs down the middle of the opened tape. Use a straight stitch and backstitch at the start and end.

Fold the tape over the edge of the fabric to the back side of the apron, then pin it down. Sew along the fold line of the tape from the back, catching the tape and fabric together. This creates a finished edge. Repeat this process on the left side and the bottom of the apron. Press each seam flat with an iron as you finish it. The bias tape should wrap smoothly around the edge with no raw fabric showing on either side.

Finishing the top edge and attaching the neck strap

The top edge of the apron needs bias tape, but this is also where you attach the neck strap. Cut a piece of bias tape 24 inches long for the top edge and another piece 28 inches long for the neck strap. Open both pieces flat. Position the 24-inch piece along the top of the apron as you did for the sides, pinning and sewing it in place.

For the neck strap, fold the 28-inch piece of bias tape in half lengthwise and press it with an iron so it stays folded. This creates a narrower, stronger strap. Position one end of the folded strap at the left side of the top edge, sandwiching it between the apron and the bias tape as you sew. Position the other end at the right side. Sew everything together in one pass, backstitching at both ends. Fold the bias tape to the back and sew it down as before. The neck strap should now be attached and ready to tie around your neck.

Adding the waist ties

Cut two pieces of bias tape, each about 36 inches long, for the waist ties. Fold each piece in half lengthwise and press with an iron. Position one tie at the left side of the apron, about 4 inches down from the top edge. Sandwich the end of the tie between the apron and a short piece of bias tape (about 2 inches), then sew it securely with multiple passes to reinforce the stress point. Repeat on the right side at the same height.

These ties wrap around your waist and tie in the back. Sew them on firmly because they bear the weight of the apron when you wear it. If the stitching is weak, the ties will tear away. After sewing, press the entire apron with an iron to flatten all seams and give it a finished appearance.

Reinforcing stress points and final pressing

The places where the neck strap and waist ties attach are stress points—they take the most strain when you put on and remove the apron. Go back over these seams with a second row of stitching, sewing right next to your first line. This double stitching prevents the ties from pulling loose. Backstitch at the start and end of each reinforcement seam.

Once all seams are sewn and reinforced, press the entire apron with an iron on a medium heat setting. Pay special attention to the edges where bias tape is folded, pressing them flat so they lie smoothly. If any threads are sticking out, trim them with scissors. Your apron is now ready to wear.

Adjusting the fit for your body

The measurements given here fit most adults, but you can adjust them to your body. If you are taller or shorter, change the length of the apron body before cutting. If you have a larger or smaller frame, adjust the width. The armhole cuts should stay roughly the same size—3 inches down and 2 inches in—but if the apron feels too tight across the shoulders, increase these measurements slightly.

The neck strap should sit comfortably without pulling. If it feels too short or too long, adjust the length before you sew it on. The waist ties should wrap around you with enough length to tie a knot in the back. If your waist is larger than average, cut the ties longer. You can always trim them after sewing if they are too long, but you cannot add length once they are attached.

Frequently Asked Questions

What fabric works best for an apron?

Cotton and linen are ideal because they are durable, wash well, and do not fray excessively. Avoid stretchy fabrics like knits, which are difficult to sew straight seams on. A medium-weight cotton or a cotton-linen blend holds its shape and resists staining better than thin fabrics.

Can I sew an apron by hand instead of using a machine?

Yes, but it takes much longer—typically two to three hours instead of 30 to 45 minutes. Use a running stitch or backstitch for strength, and make your stitches as small and even as possible. Hand-sewn seams are weaker than machine seams, so reinforce the stress points where ties attach with extra passes of thread.

What if I do not have bias tape?

You can make your own by cutting strips of fabric on the bias (at a 45-degree angle to the grain) and folding them, but this is time-consuming. Alternatively, you can fold the raw edges of the apron inward and sew them down with a straight stitch, though this creates a thicker edge than bias tape and is less polished-looking.

How do I prevent the apron from slipping when I wear it?

Make sure the neck strap is snug but not tight, and tie the waist ties firmly in the back. If the apron still slides, you can sew a small loop of elastic or ribbon to the inside of the waist ties so they grip your clothing better, or add a second set of shorter ties that cross in the back.

Can I add pockets to my apron?

Yes. Cut a rectangle of fabric about 6 inches wide by 8 inches tall, fold the top edge down and sew it, then pin the pocket to the front of the apron and sew around three sides. Sew the pocket on before you attach the bias tape to the edges, so the tape covers the top of the pocket seam and looks neat.