An X stitch is two diagonal lines crossing over each other to form a plus sign

An X stitch (also called a cross stitch when done by hand, or a cross pattern when done on a machine) is made by sewing one diagonal line from bottom-left to top-right, then crossing it with another diagonal line from top-left to bottom-right. The two lines meet in the middle and create an X shape. You can sew an X by hand with needle and thread, or use a sewing machine with a zigzag or decorative stitch setting.

The X stitch is useful for mending torn fabric, adding decorative detail to clothing or home goods, or securing patches. Hand-sewn X stitches are visible and often intentional as decoration. Machine-sewn X stitches are faster and work well when you want a consistent, tight hold on fabric layers.

Key Takeaways

  • A hand-sewn X requires four separate needle passes through the fabric: one diagonal line in each direction, then a return pass on each line to complete the X.
  • A machine-sewn X uses the zigzag stitch or a built-in cross stitch pattern, which your machine completes in one continuous motion.
  • Hand X stitches work best on medium-weight fabrics and are visible, so they suit decorative work or mending you want to show.
  • Machine X stitches are faster and stronger, making them better for load-bearing repairs like securing patches or reinforcing seams.

How to sew an X stitch by hand

Thread your needle and tie a knot at the end. Push the needle up through the fabric from the back side at the bottom-left corner of where you want your X to be. Pull the thread until the knot catches on the back of the fabric.

Push the needle down through the fabric at the top-right corner, creating the first diagonal line. Come back up at the bottom-right corner. Push the needle down at the top-left corner, creating the second diagonal line that crosses the first. You now have an X shape. If you want a thicker, more defined X, repeat the same path: go back down at the top-right, then up at the bottom-left, then down at the top-left again. This second pass fills in the X and makes it stronger.

Push the needle to the back of the fabric and tie off the thread with a small knot. Trim the excess thread.

How to sew an X stitch on a sewing machine

Set your machine to the zigzag stitch (usually marked with a zigzag symbol on the stitch dial) or look for a cross stitch or X stitch pattern in your machine's built-in stitches. Check your machine's manual if you are unsure which button or dial controls this—different brands use different layouts.

Place your fabric under the presser foot so the needle will start at the bottom-left corner of where you want the X. Lower the presser foot and begin sewing. The machine will move the needle diagonally to create the first line, then automatically reverse direction and create the crossing line. Most machines complete a full X in one continuous motion. Raise the presser foot and trim the thread when you reach the end.

If your machine has a dedicated cross stitch pattern, select it instead of zigzag—this will create a more defined, symmetrical X. Test the stitch on a scrap of the same fabric first to see how it looks and adjust the stitch width or length if needed using your machine's dial or buttons.

Choosing between hand and machine X stitches

Hand-sewn X stitches are slower but give you full control over size, spacing, and appearance. They work well on delicate fabrics, small repairs, or when you want the stitch to be a visible design element. Hand stitching also requires no machine, so it is useful for quick fixes on the go or for fabrics that are difficult to feed through a machine.

Machine-sewn X stitches are much faster and create a uniform, tight stitch that holds well under stress. They are better for reinforcing seams, securing patches, or mending heavy fabrics like denim or canvas. Machines also allow you to sew longer lines of X stitches without hand fatigue. The trade-off is that machine stitches are more visible and less flexible if you need to adjust the size or shape mid-project.

Common mistakes when sewing an X

The most common mistake in hand sewing is pulling the thread too tight, which puckers the fabric and distorts the X shape. Pull firmly enough that the stitch holds, but not so hard that you see wrinkles forming around the stitch. A second mistake is not anchoring the thread properly at the start or end—a loose knot or a thread that is not secured will cause the entire X to unravel.

On a machine, the most frequent error is not lowering the presser foot before sewing, which causes the thread to bunch and skip stitches. Another mistake is sewing too fast, especially on delicate fabrics, which can cause the needle to bend or break. Always test your stitch on scrap fabric first to check tension and stitch quality before committing to your actual project.

What fabric works best for X stitches

Medium-weight, tightly woven fabrics like cotton, linen, and light denim are ideal for both hand and machine X stitches. These fabrics hold the stitch in place without puckering and do not fray easily. Avoid very thin fabrics like silk or chiffon for hand stitching, as the needle can tear the fibers—if you must use delicate fabric, use a machine with a fine needle and reduce your stitch length.

Heavy fabrics like canvas, upholstery fabric, or thick denim work well for machine X stitches but can be difficult to hand sew because the needle requires more force to push through. Stretchy fabrics like knit or jersey are tricky for both methods because they move under the needle; if you use them, stabilize the fabric with a backing or use a ballpoint needle on your machine.

Reinforcing an X stitch for durability

If you are using an X stitch to repair a tear or find a patch, a single X may not hold under heavy use. Sew multiple X stitches in a row or in a grid pattern to distribute the stress across a larger area. Space them about one-quarter inch apart for a strong repair.

For hand stitching, you can also backstitch along the edges of the X to create a border that locks the stitch in place. For machine stitching, sew over the same X pattern twice—the second pass will sit directly on top of the first and create a thicker, more durable stitch. Always tie off or backstitch at the beginning and end to prevent unraveling.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I sew an X stitch on a stretch fabric like jersey or knit?

Stretch fabrics are difficult because they move under the needle and cause the stitch to pucker or skip. If you must use them, place a stabilizer (a thin backing material) behind the fabric while sewing, then tear it away afterward. On a machine, use a ballpoint needle and reduce your stitch length. Hand sewing stretch fabric is not recommended unless you are very experienced.

How do I fix an X stitch that came undone?

If only one thread is loose, rethread your needle and retrace the loose line, tying off at the end. If the entire X unraveled, start over with a new X stitch in the same spot. To prevent this, always tie a knot at the start and end of hand stitching, and backstitch at the beginning and end of machine stitching.

What is the difference between an X stitch and a cross stitch?

In hand sewing, "cross stitch" usually refers to embroidery on counted fabric (like Aida cloth) where each stitch is the same size and placed on a grid. An X stitch is straightforward two diagonal lines crossing, and can be any size. On a machine, both terms are often used interchangeably to describe the same stitch pattern.

Do I need special thread for an X stitch?

Regular sewing thread works fine for both hand and machine X stitches. For hand sewing, you can use embroidery floss if you want a thicker, more decorative stitch. For machine sewing, use all-purpose polyester or cotton thread that matches your fabric color or contrasts intentionally for a decorative effect.

How tight should I pull the thread when hand sewing an X?

Pull the thread snug enough that the stitch sits flat against the fabric and does not move when you tug it gently, but not so tight that the fabric puckers or wrinkles form around the stitch. If you see small folds in the fabric, you are pulling too hard—loosen your tension slightly on the next stitch.