A beret is two fabric pieces sewn in a circle, then gathered at the edge

A beret is simpler to sew than it looks. You need two pieces of fabric cut in a circle, a strip for the band that sits on your head, and a lining. The crown pieces are sewn together, then gathered tight at the center back where they meet the band. The whole thing takes an afternoon if you have a sewing machine and basic supplies.

The finished beret sits flat on your head because the fabric is gathered, not because of any special shaping. Once you understand that the gathering does the work, the steps fall into place.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut two identical circles of fashion fabric and two of lining fabric, all the same size, using a plate or bowl as a template.
  • Sew the two fashion circles together with right sides facing, leaving a 3-inch opening, then turn it right-side out and press flat.
  • Sew the lining circles together the same way, but do not turn them right-side out.
  • Attach a fabric band around the edge where the crown meets the lining, then gather the crown fabric into that band using a running stitch.
  • Slip-stitch the opening closed by hand after you have turned the crown right-side out.

What fabric and supplies you need

Use a medium-weight fabric that holds its shape: wool, cotton twill, linen, or a cotton-wool blend all work well. Avoid knits and very stretchy fabrics. You need a half yard of fashion fabric and a half yard of lining fabric (cotton or muslin). You also need thread that matches your fashion fabric, a needle, scissors, pins, a sewing machine, and something round to trace—a dinner plate works for an adult beret, a salad plate for a child's.

Optional but helpful: a measuring tape, a seam ripper in case you need to undo a seam, and an iron to press seams flat as you go. Pressing makes the finished beret look neater.

Cutting the fabric pieces

Trace your plate or bowl onto the fashion fabric twice and the lining fabric twice. A 10-inch dinner plate makes a standard adult beret; a 9-inch plate makes a smaller one. Cut out all four circles. Then cut a band 2 inches wide and 18 inches long from the fashion fabric—this will wrap around your head. Cut a matching band from the lining fabric.

Mark the grain line (the direction the fabric naturally runs) on each circle before you cut, so all four pieces run the same way. This keeps the finished beret from twisting.

Sewing the crown pieces together

Place the two fashion circles with right sides together (the pretty sides facing each other). Pin around the edge. Sew them together with a quarter-inch seam allowance, leaving a 3-inch opening. Backstitch at the start and end of each seam to lock the thread.

Trim the seam allowance to an eighth of an inch all the way around, cutting close to the stitching but not into it. This reduces bulk when you turn the crown right-side out. Clip small notches around the curved edge—about 20 notches, each a quarter-inch deep—so the fabric lies flat instead of bunching when you turn it. Turn the crown right-side out through the opening and press it flat with an iron.

Sew the two lining circles together the same way, but do not turn them right-side out. Leave them inside-out and press the seam flat.

Attaching the band and gathering the crown

Fold the fashion fabric band in half lengthwise with right sides together, and sew the short ends together. Press the seam open. Fold the band in half again lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. This creates a folded strip that is 1 inch wide.

Pin the folded band around the edge of the crown (the right side of the fabric), matching raw edges. The seam of the band should sit at the back center of the beret. Sew the band to the crown with a quarter-inch seam allowance. Now thread a needle with a long piece of thread and knot the end. Starting at the back seam, run the needle through the fabric of the crown close to where the band is sewn, making small running stitches all the way around. Pull the thread tight—this gathers the crown fabric into the band. Wrap the thread around a pin a few times to hold the gathering, then knot it off.

Slip the lining (still inside-out) over the gathered crown so the band is sandwiched between the fashion fabric and the lining. Pin the lining band to the fashion fabric band all the way around. Sew them together, then turn the whole beret right-side out through the opening in the lining. Slip-stitch the opening in the lining closed by hand.

Finishing the inside and trying it on

Press the beret gently with an iron on a low setting, working from the inside so you do not flatten the gathered crown. The lining should lie smooth against the inside of the band. If the gathering is uneven, you can adjust it by loosening the gathering thread slightly, moving the gathers to a better position, and tightening again.

Try the beret on. It should sit flat on your head with the band resting just above your ears. If it is too tight, the band is too small; if it slides off, the band is too large. For your next beret, adjust the band length by a half inch or so. The crown should puff slightly above your head—that is the gathered fabric doing its job.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

The most common mistake is cutting the circles too small. A beret needs enough fabric to gather, so do not skimp on the circle size. Another mistake is sewing the band on crooked, which makes the beret sit off-center. Pin the band carefully before you sew, and sew slowly so you can keep the edge even.

If your gathering thread breaks, straightforward thread a new needle, knot it, and continue from where you left off. If the seam allowance is too wide, the beret will be bulky; if it is too narrow, the seam may come apart. A quarter-inch seam is the standard for a reason. If you are new to sewing, measure it with a ruler the first time.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I sew a beret by hand without a machine?

Yes, but it takes longer. Use a backstitch for all the seams—it is stronger than a running stitch and holds up to wear. The gathering step is actually easier by hand because you have more control over how tight you pull. Plan on three to four hours instead of one.

What size should the band be?

Measure around your head where the beret will sit, usually just above your ears. The band should be about a half inch shorter than that measurement so it holds the beret in place without slipping. For an average adult head, 18 inches is standard; for a child, 16 inches usually works.

Why does my beret look lumpy instead of smooth?

The gathering is probably uneven. Loosen the gathering thread slightly, redistribute the gathers so they are spaced evenly around the crown, and pull tight again. You can also press the beret gently with a steam iron to smooth out minor lumps.

Can I use a stretchy fabric like jersey or fleece?

Stretchy fabrics do not hold the shape of a beret well. Stick with woven fabrics like cotton, linen, wool, or twill. If you want a warm beret, use wool or a wool blend instead of a stretchy knit.

What if the opening I left for turning does not close neatly?

Slip-stitch it closed with thread that matches the lining. Make your stitches small and close together so the opening does not gap. If the edges are frayed, trim them slightly before you stitch, or use a seam ripper to open the seam a quarter inch wider and re-sew it with a smaller seam allowance.