What Bloomers Are and Why They're Worth Making
Bloomers are loose, gathered pants that end at the knee or calf, typically worn under skirts or dresses. They're comfortable, historically accurate for period costumes, and straightforward to sew once you understand the basic construction. Unlike fitted trousers, bloomers rely on elastic and gathering rather than complex shaping, making them ideal for someone sewing pants for the first time.
The main pieces you'll need are two leg panels, a waistband, and elastic. The legs are cut wide and gathered at the waist and ankles (or knees), so there's minimal fitting involved. Most bloomers take between three and five hours to complete, depending on your sewing speed and whether you add details like lace trim or decorative stitching.
Key Takeaways
- Bloomers use two straightforward leg panels gathered at the waist and ankles, with no complex seams or darts required.
- You'll need a pattern, fabric (cotton or linen works well), elastic, thread, and basic tools: scissors, pins, a measuring tape, and a sewing machine.
- The waistband is sewn as a casing—a tunnel of fabric through which elastic slides—so the fit adjusts to your body without zippers or buttons.
- Gathering the fabric at the waist and ankles creates the bloomer's characteristic silhouette and is done by pulling bobbin thread or using a gathering foot.
- Finishing the leg openings with elastic casings takes the same method as the waistband and is the final step before trying them on.
Choosing a Pattern and Gathering Your Materials
Start by finding a bloomer pattern. Search for "historical bloomers pattern" or "elastic-waist bloomers" at pattern companies like Simplicity, McCall's, or Butterick, or read a free pattern from sites like Etsy or sewing blogs. Print the pattern at home or have it printed at a fabric store. Choose the size that matches your waist and hip measurements—bloomers are forgiving, but starting in the right size range saves adjustment time.
Gather your materials before cutting. You'll need fabric (1.5 to 2 yards of cotton, linen, or a cotton blend, depending on the pattern and your size), elastic (typically 1 inch wide for the waist and 0.75 inch for the ankles), thread that matches your fabric, scissors, pins, a measuring tape, and a sewing machine. If you're adding lace trim, buy that now too. Wash and dry your fabric before cutting if it's cotton, since cotton shrinks.
Read through your pattern's instructions completely before you start. Patterns vary—some have you sew the side seams first, others have you attach the waistband before closing the sides. Knowing the order prevents mistakes and saves time unpicking seams.
Cutting and Preparing the Leg Panels
Lay out your fabric on a flat surface and pin the pattern pieces to it, following the grain line marked on the pattern. Most bloomer patterns have two identical leg pieces. Cut carefully along the pattern edges using sharp scissors or a rotary cutter. Mark any notches or dots on the fabric with a fabric pen or tailor's chalk—these show you where seams meet and where to gather.
Once cut, prepare the fabric for gathering. If your pattern calls for gathering at the waist, you'll create two rows of long stitches along the waist edge of each leg panel. Set your sewing machine to the longest stitch length (usually 5 or 6 on most machines) and use regular thread. Sew one row about 0.5 inches from the raw edge and another row about 0.25 inches away from the first. Leave long thread tails at both ends—you'll pull these to gather the fabric later.
Repeat this gathering-stitch step at the ankle or knee edge if your pattern requires it. Don't pull the threads yet; just sew them in place. Pulling too early risks breaking the thread.
Sewing the Side Seams and Attaching the Waistband
Place the two leg panels with right sides together (the pretty sides facing each other). Pin along the side seams and sew using a standard 0.5-inch seam allowance. Use a straight stitch and backstitch at the beginning and end to lock the seam. Sew both side seams, then try the bloomers on inside-out to check the fit at the hips and thighs. If they're too tight or loose, you can adjust the seam allowance slightly and resew before moving forward.
Now gather the waist. Hold one of the bobbin threads (the thread on the underside of your gathering stitches) and gently pull it while pushing the fabric along the thread toward the needle end. The fabric will bunch up. Pull until the waist measurement matches your elastic length minus 1 inch. Distribute the gathers evenly around the waist. Repeat on the other leg panel.
Create the waistband casing by folding the top edge of the bloomers down 1.5 inches to the inside and pinning it in place. Sew around the waist about 0.25 inches from the fold, leaving a 2-inch opening where you can insert the elastic. Sew slowly and use a walking foot if you have one—gathered fabric can shift. Measure your waist, subtract 1 inch, and cut elastic to that length. Thread it through the casing using a safety pin or bodkin, overlap the ends by 0.5 inches, and sew them together with a zigzag stitch. Sew the 2-inch opening closed.
Finishing the Leg Openings
The ankles or knees are finished the same way as the waist. Gather the leg opening using the bobbin threads you left long earlier, pulling until the opening is about 1 inch smaller than your ankle or calf measurement. Fold the edge down 1 inch to the inside and pin it. Sew around the leg opening about 0.25 inches from the fold, again leaving a 2-inch gap for inserting elastic.
Cut elastic for each leg opening—measure around your ankle or calf, subtract 1 inch, and cut two pieces to that length. Thread each piece through its casing, overlap the ends by 0.5 inches, and sew them together with a zigzag stitch. Close the 2-inch opening on each leg. Try the bloomers on right-side-out to check the fit. The waist should sit comfortably at your natural waist, and the leg openings should be snug but not cutting off circulation.
If the leg openings are too loose or tight, you can adjust the elastic. Carefully cut open the casing seam, remove the elastic, and replace it with a different length. Sew the opening closed again.
Adding Trim and Final Details
Bloomers are often finished with lace or decorative trim at the leg openings. If you want to add this, do it before closing the casing. Cut lace trim to fit around the leg opening, pin it to the right side of the fabric just above where the casing fold will be, and sew it on with a straight stitch or zigzag stitch. Then fold and sew the casing as usual—the trim will peek out from under the casing edge.
Alternatively, sew trim to the outside of the finished casing for a decorative band. Pin the trim around the leg opening and sew it on with a matching thread. Press the bloomers with a warm iron on the cotton setting, using a pressing cloth if your fabric is delicate. Hang them to dry or lay them flat.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
The most common mistake is pulling the gathering threads too hard or unevenly, which creates bunches instead of smooth gathers. Pull gently and distribute the fabric evenly as you go. If you do over-gather, carefully remove the gathering stitches and try again.
Another frequent error is sewing the casing too close to the fold, which leaves no room for the elastic to move. Keep your stitching line at least 0.25 inches from the fold. If your elastic gets twisted inside the casing, use a safety pin or bodkin to guide it through smoothly and check it as you thread.
Uneven seams happen when gathered fabric shifts under the presser foot. Use a walking foot if your machine has one, or hold the fabric gently on both sides of the needle as you sew. Backstitch at the start and end of every seam to prevent them from coming undone when you wear the bloomers.
Frequently Asked Questions
What fabric works best for bloomers?
Cotton and linen are traditional and breathable. Cotton voile, cotton lawn, and linen are lightweight and drape well. For a sturdier bloomer, use cotton twill or a cotton-linen blend. Avoid stretchy fabrics like jersey or spandex—they don't gather cleanly and the elastic won't hold the shape.
Do I need a walking foot to sew bloomers?
A walking foot helps prevent gathered fabric from shifting, but it's not required. If you don't have one, sew slowly and hold the fabric gently on both sides of the needle. Some machines have a built-in even-feed feature that works similarly.
Can I make bloomers without a pattern?
Yes, but a pattern saves time and ensures proper proportions. If you want to draft your own, measure your waist, hip, and inseam, then draw two rectangular leg panels wide enough to fit your hips with 2 inches of ease. Add 1.5 inches at the top for the waistband casing and 1 inch at the bottom for the ankle casing. Sew the side seams and add elastic as described above.
How do I adjust bloomers if the waist is too loose or tight?
If the waist is too loose, cut open the casing seam, remove the elastic, and replace it with a shorter piece. If it's too tight, use a longer piece. For the side seams, you can take them in or let them out by 0.25 to 0.5 inches on each side if needed, but this requires unpicking and resewing.
What's the difference between bloomers and knickers?
Bloomers are gathered at the waist and ankles or knees, with a loose silhouette. Knickers are similar but often shorter and may have a tighter fit at the leg opening. The construction method is the same—the main difference is the length and how much ease (extra room) you add to the pattern.