Sewing boxers is simpler than most people think—you need only a sewing machine, elastic, and four seams
Boxers are one of the easiest garments to make because they have no closures, no collar, and no sleeves. The basic construction is two leg pieces sewn together at the sides and inseam, plus a waistband made from elastic. A beginner with a sewing machine can finish a pair in two to three hours. The hardest part is usually sewing the elastic waistband smoothly, but that becomes automatic after the first pair.
This guide assumes you have a sewing machine, thread, scissors, elastic (typically 1 to 1.5 inches wide), and a pattern. Free patterns are available from sites like Simplicity, McCall's, and independent designers—search for "men's boxer shorts pattern" or "unisex boxer pattern" to find options in your size. You will also need a measuring tape and pins.
Key Takeaways
- Boxers require only four seams: two side seams, one inseam on each leg, and one waistband seam, making them faster than most other garments.
- Elastic is sewn into a casing (a tunnel of fabric) at the waist, so you must leave a small opening or use a safety pin to thread it through.
- Cutting the legs on the fold of your fabric saves time and ensures both legs are identical in size.
- A zigzag stitch on seams prevents fraying and adds durability, especially important for a garment that gets washed frequently.
- Prewashing your fabric before cutting prevents shrinkage that would make finished boxers too small.
Choosing and Preparing Your Fabric
Cotton knit or cotton jersey is the standard choice for boxers because it stretches, breathes, and feels soft against skin. Avoid woven fabrics like cotton poplin—they do not move with the body and will feel stiff. Look for fabric labeled "knit" or "jersey" at a fabric store, or order online from suppliers like Joann or Mood Fabrics. Most patterns call for 1 to 1.5 yards depending on size.
Prewash your fabric in warm water and dry it on medium heat before cutting. Knit fabrics shrink, and washing now prevents your finished boxers from becoming too tight after the first wear. Lay the fabric flat to dry or hang it to prevent wrinkles. Once dry, press it with an iron on a low setting if needed—wrinkles make it hard to cut accurately.
Cutting the Pattern Pieces
Lay your pattern pieces on the fabric according to the layout diagram included with your pattern. Most boxer patterns have two main pieces: the front and back leg panels. The pattern will show you how to position them on the fold of your fabric so that when you cut and unfold, you have two identical leg pieces without needing to cut four separate pieces.
Pin the pattern to the fabric with at least four pins per piece to prevent shifting. Cut slowly and carefully along the pattern edge using sharp fabric scissors—dull scissors tear knit fabric instead of cutting it cleanly. Mark the notches (small cuts at the seam allowance) with a fabric pen or chalk; these guide you when sewing pieces together. Once all pieces are cut, remove the pattern and lay the pieces flat.
Sewing the Inseams
The inseam runs from the crotch down the inside of each leg. Place the two leg pieces with the right sides (the pretty sides) facing each other. Pin along the inseam, starting at the crotch and working down to the ankle. Use pins every 2 to 3 inches and match the notches you marked.
Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch with a length of 2.5 to 3 millimeters. Sew the inseam with a 5/8-inch seam allowance (the standard for most patterns). Backstitch at the start and end to lock the thread. Once both inseams are sewn, trim the seam allowance to 1/4 inch and sew over it with a zigzag stitch to prevent fraying. This zigzag finish is especially important for boxers because they are washed frequently and the raw edges will fray if left unfinished.
Sewing the Side Seams
Turn one leg right-side-out and slide it inside the other leg so the right sides face each other and the inseams line up. Pin the side seams from the waist down to the ankle, matching the notches. Sew both side seams with a 5/8-inch seam allowance, backstitching at the start and end.
Trim and zigzag-finish these seams the same way you finished the inseams. Turn the boxers right-side-out through one of the leg openings. You now have the basic boxer shape. Try them on to check the fit before moving to the waistband—if they are too tight or loose, you can adjust the seam allowance on the next pair.
Creating and Attaching the Waistband
The waistband is a casing—a tunnel of fabric that holds the elastic. Fold the top edge of the boxers down 1.5 inches toward the inside and pin it all the way around. The fold should be even and smooth; pin every 2 inches. Sew the casing 1/4 inch from the folded edge, leaving a 2-inch opening on one side so you can thread the elastic through.
Measure your waist and cut elastic that is 1 to 2 inches shorter than your waist measurement. The exact length depends on how snug you want the fit—start with 2 inches shorter and adjust on future pairs. Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic and use it to thread the elastic through the casing opening. Once the elastic is all the way through, overlap the ends by 1 inch and sew them together with a zigzag stitch, going back and forth three times for strength.
Sew the casing opening closed with a straight stitch, backstitching at the start and end. Distribute the elastic evenly around the waist by gently pushing the fabric along the elastic, then try on the boxers to check the fit.
Finishing the Leg Openings
The leg openings can be finished in two ways: a straightforward rolled hem or a casing with elastic. For a beginner, a rolled hem is faster and looks clean. Fold the leg opening up 1/2 inch toward the inside, pin it, and sew it with a straight stitch 1/4 inch from the fold. This creates a straightforward, flat finish that will not curl or fray.
If you prefer a snug fit at the legs, you can add a thin elastic casing the same way you added the waistband elastic, using 1/2-inch-wide elastic and cutting it 2 to 3 inches shorter than the leg opening. This is optional and takes extra time, so most first boxers have straightforward rolled hems.
Pressing and Final Checks
Press the finished boxers with an iron on a low setting to smooth out any wrinkles from sewing. Pay special attention to the waistband and leg openings. Try them on and check that the waistband sits at your natural waist without rolling, that the legs are not too tight at the thigh, and that the inseam does not pull when you sit or move.
Wash the boxers in warm water with similar colors and dry them on medium heat. If they fit well after washing, you have a pattern that works and can make more pairs. If they are too loose or tight, note the adjustment you need to make—usually a matter of sewing the side seams 1/4 inch wider or narrower—and explore it to the next pair.
Frequently Asked Questions
What thread should I use?
Use all-purpose polyester thread in a color that matches your fabric. If your fabric is a solid color, match the thread to that color. If your fabric is a print, choose a thread color that blends with the dominant color. Polyester thread is stronger than cotton and holds up better in the washing machine.
Can I use a serger instead of a sewing machine?
Yes. A serger finishes seams in one step and is actually faster than a regular machine for boxers. Use a 4-thread serger stitch for durability. If you do not have a serger, a regular sewing machine with a zigzag finish works just as well—it just takes one extra step.
What if my elastic is too tight or too loose after I finish?
You can adjust it without taking apart the waistband. Cut a small opening in the casing seam, pull out the elastic, and replace it with a different length. Sew the opening closed. This is much faster than resewing the entire waistband.
How do I prevent the elastic from twisting inside the casing?
After threading the elastic through, sew it to the casing at the side seams before overlapping and sewing the ends together. This anchors the elastic in place and prevents it from rotating inside the casing as you wear and wash the boxers.
Do I need a pattern, or can I draft my own?
A commercial pattern is much easier for a first pair because it includes the correct seam allowances and notches. Once you have made two or three pairs and understand how they fit your body, you can trace an existing pair and modify it. Drafting from scratch requires knowledge of grading and fit that takes time to learn.