What You Need to Sew Boxer Shorts

Sewing boxer shorts is a straightforward project that takes an afternoon once you have the right materials. You will need fabric — cotton knit or cotton-spandex blend works best because it stretches and breathes — an elastic waistband (usually 1 to 1.5 inches wide), thread that matches your fabric, a sewing machine with a ballpoint needle, and a pattern. You can buy a pattern from Simplicity, McCall's, or Butterick, or read one from sites like Etsy or Craftsy.

Beyond fabric and notions, gather a measuring tape, scissors or a rotary cutter, pins, and a serger or zigzag stitch capability on your machine. A serger is not required — a zigzag stitch on a regular machine works fine for knit seams — but it produces a more finished look. If you are new to sewing, a ballpoint needle is essential because it slides between the fibres of knit fabric instead of piercing them, which prevents runs and skipped stitches.

Key Takeaways

  • Cotton knit or cotton-spandex blend fabric stretches enough to wear comfortably and breathes better than woven cotton.
  • A ballpoint needle on your sewing machine prevents dropped stitches and runs when working with knit fabric.
  • The waistband is sewn as a tube, then folded and stitched to the shorts opening so the elastic sits inside the fold.
  • Seams on boxer shorts are best finished with a zigzag stitch or serger to prevent fraying and add durability.
  • Most boxer shorts take two to four hours to complete once you have cut the pieces.

Choosing and Preparing Your Pattern

Start with a pattern designed for boxer shorts or men's underwear, not a general shorts pattern. Patterns from Simplicity (numbers 8000 to 8999 are usually menswear) or McCall's come with size ranges and clear instructions. If you read a pattern, print it at 100 percent scale — do not let your printer auto-fit it to the page, or your finished shorts will be the wrong size.

Lay out the printed pattern pieces and tape them together where indicated. Check the grain line marked on each piece — it should run parallel to the selvage (finished edge) of your fabric. Measure yourself at the waist and hip, then compare those measurements to the pattern's finished measurements, not the size number. A size medium pattern might measure 32 inches at the waist finished, while a size large measures 36 inches. Choose the size that matches your actual measurements, not the label you usually wear.

Cutting and Marking Your Fabric

Fold your fabric with the right side (the side you want facing out) facing inward, then pin the pattern pieces to the fold. Most boxer patterns have you cut two leg pieces and one waistband piece. Cut slowly with sharp scissors or a rotary cutter, following the pattern outline exactly. Mark notches — small cuts at the seam allowance — where the pattern shows them; these help you match seams later.

Transfer any other markings from the pattern to your fabric using tailor's chalk or a fabric pen. These marks show you where to start and stop stitching, where the crotch seam goes, and where the leg openings sit. Do not skip this step — the marks prevent you from sewing the legs on backwards or misaligning the crotch seam.

Sewing the Leg Seams and Crotch

With the fabric still inside-out (right sides facing each other), pin the two leg pieces together along the side seams. Set your machine to a zigzag stitch with a width of 2 to 3 millimetres and a length of 2 to 2.5 millimetres. Sew the side seams using a 5/8-inch seam allowance — that is the standard for most patterns. Backstitch at the start and end of each seam to lock the thread.

Next, sew the crotch seam, which connects the front and back of the shorts. Pin the front and back pieces together at the crotch, matching the notches you marked earlier. Sew this seam with the same zigzag stitch. The crotch seam is under the most stress when wearing, so make sure your stitches are straight and your tension is even. If you have a serger, use it for these seams instead — it trims the seam allowance and finishes the edge in one pass, which is stronger and neater.

Attaching the Waistband

The waistband is a tube of fabric that folds over the elastic. Take your waistband piece and fold it in half lengthwise with the right sides facing each other. Sew the short ends together with a zigzag stitch to form a loop. Press the seam open with an iron.

Fold the waistband loop in half again, wrong sides facing each other, so the raw edges are on the outside. This creates a tube with the seam hidden inside. Pin this tube to the top opening of the shorts, matching the seam of the waistband to one of the side seams of the shorts. Sew the waistband to the shorts opening with a zigzag stitch, stretching the waistband slightly as you sew so it gathers evenly. Once sewn, insert the elastic through the waistband tube, overlap the elastic ends by 1 inch, and sew them together. Stitch the opening of the waistband closed by hand or machine.

Finishing the Leg Openings

The leg openings can be finished with a straightforward rolled hem or a folded casing. For a rolled hem, fold the raw edge of each leg opening inward by 1/4 inch, then fold it again by another 1/4 inch. Pin and sew close to the inner fold with a straight stitch. This creates a neat, flat finish that does not add bulk.

Alternatively, fold the leg opening inward by 1/2 inch and sew it down with a zigzag stitch. This method is faster and works well if your fabric does not fray much. Either way, try the shorts on before you finish the legs — you may want to adjust the opening width for comfort.

Pressing and Final Checks

Once all seams are sewn, turn the shorts right-side-out through one of the leg openings. Press all seams flat with an iron set to the temperature appropriate for your fabric — usually medium heat for cotton blends. Pay special attention to the waistband seam and the crotch seam, as these are the most visible.

Try on the shorts and check the fit. The waistband should sit at your natural waist without rolling or gapping. The leg openings should be snug enough to stay in place but loose enough to move comfortably. If the fit is off, you can adjust the waistband by taking in or letting out the side seams slightly. If the legs are too long or too short, you can trim and re-hem them. Once you are satisfied with the fit, wash the shorts in warm water and dry them to see how the fabric behaves — knit fabrics often shrink slightly.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use regular cotton fabric instead of knit?

You can, but the shorts will be stiff and uncomfortable. Woven cotton does not stretch, so the fit will be tight and restrictive. Knit fabric moves with your body, which is why boxer shorts are always made from it. If you want to use woven fabric, you would need to add gussets (extra fabric panels) at the crotch and legs to allow movement.

What if my sewing machine keeps skipping stitches?

You are likely using the wrong needle. Ballpoint needles are designed for knit fabric and prevent skipped stitches. If you are using a regular sharp needle, switch to a ballpoint when ready. Also check that your needle is inserted correctly — the flat side should face the direction your machine manual specifies — and that the needle is not bent or dull. A new needle costs a dollar or two and solves most skipping problems.

How much fabric do I need?

Most boxer patterns call for 1 to 1.5 yards of 60-inch-wide fabric. Check your specific pattern, as this varies. Knit fabric is usually sold in 60-inch widths, so one pattern length is enough for a pair. Buy an extra 1/4 yard if you are new to sewing, in case you make a cutting mistake.

Do I need a serger to make boxer shorts?

No. A serger produces a more finished seam, but a zigzag stitch on a regular sewing machine works fine. The zigzag stitch stretches with the fabric and prevents seams from popping when you wear the shorts. It also finishes the raw edges so they do not fray. A serger is a nice-to-have, not a requirement.

Can I adjust the pattern to make them looser or tighter?

Yes. If you want them looser, add 1/2 inch to each side seam before cutting — that adds 2 inches total to the waist. If you want them tighter, subtract 1/2 inch from each side seam. You can also adjust the leg opening width by making it wider or narrower before you cut. Write these changes on your pattern pieces before you cut the fabric so you remember them if you make another pair.