Burlap Requires a Heavier Needle and Slower Stitching Than Cotton
Burlap is a loose, open weave made from jute fibers, and it behaves differently than the cotton or linen you may have sewn before. The fabric is stiff, the weave is wide, and the fibers are thick enough that a standard needle will bend or break if you push it through too fast. To sew burlap successfully, you need a size 16 or 18 needle (also called a heavy-duty or denim needle), a thread rated for heavy fabrics, and the willingness to slow down your machine speed to about 60 percent of normal.
The most common mistake is treating burlap like regular fabric. If you use a fine needle, run your machine at full speed, or pull the fabric as it feeds, the needle will deflect sideways and either skip stitches or snap. Burlap also shreds easily along cut edges, so you will need to finish the seams to prevent unraveling during washing or handling.
Before you begin any project, test your setup on a scrap of the same burlap you plan to use. Sew a straight seam, check that stitches are even and the needle is not bending, and then wash the scrap to see how much fraying occurs. This ten-minute test will save you from discovering problems halfway through a pillow cover or tote bag.
Key Takeaways
- Use a size 16 or 18 needle designed for heavy fabrics, not a standard universal needle, because burlap fibers are too thick for fine needles to penetrate cleanly.
- Reduce your machine speed to 60 percent of normal and let the machine feed the fabric—do not pull or guide it, or the needle will bend or skip stitches.
- Finish all seams with a zigzag stitch or pinking shears to prevent the loose weave from unraveling during use or washing.
- Test your needle, thread, and stitch length on a scrap of the actual burlap you are using before cutting into your project pieces.
- Burlap frays significantly, so add extra seam allowance (at least 1 inch) and plan for visible fraying as part of the finished look, or bind edges with bias tape.
Choosing the Right Needle and Thread
A size 16 or 18 needle has a larger eye and a stronger shaft than a standard size 10 or 12 needle. The larger eye accommodates thicker thread without shredding it, and the stronger shaft can push through the dense jute weave without deflecting. If you only have universal needles on hand, do not use them—burlap will damage them quickly and produce poor stitches.
Thread matters just as much as the needle. Use a heavy-duty polyester or cotton thread rated for upholstery or denim work. Regular all-purpose thread is too thin and will break under the stress of sewing through burlap. Gutermann Mara or Coats Epic are two brands widely available in fabric stores; either will work. Match the thread color to your burlap or choose a contrasting color if you want the seams to show as a design detail.
Wind your bobbin slowly and do not overfill it. Burlap creates more friction than smooth fabrics, so an overstuffed bobbin can jam or cause tension problems. Fill it to about three-quarters full and test the tension on a scrap before you start your project.
Preparing Burlap and Cutting Pieces
Burlap shrinks when wet, so wash and dry it before cutting if your finished project will be washed. Use warm water, a gentle cycle, and lay it flat to dry. Do not put it in the dryer—heat can damage the jute fibers and cause excessive shrinkage.
When you are ready to cut, use a rotary cutter and self-healing mat rather than scissors. Scissors can catch the loose weave and pull threads, while a rotary cutter makes a clean cut. If you do not have a rotary cutter, use sharp fabric scissors and cut slowly in one direction, supporting the fabric with your other hand so it does not shift.
Add at least 1 inch of seam allowance on all sides. Burlap frays aggressively, and a standard 5/8-inch allowance will disappear into the fraying. The extra width gives you room to finish the seam and still have a stable edge. Mark your cutting lines with tailor's chalk or a fabric pencil—pen ink can bleed into the porous fibers.
Setting Up Your Machine and Testing Stitches
Before threading your machine, insert the new heavy-duty needle and make sure it is seated all the way up into the needle clamp. A needle that is not fully seated will bend or break on the first stitch. Thread the machine with the presser foot up (this opens the tension discs) and pull the thread gently to make sure it is seated in all the guides.
Set your stitch length to 3.0 to 3.5 millimeters—slightly longer than the 2.5 millimeters you would use for cotton. Longer stitches are less likely to pucker or break the fibers. Set your machine speed to 60 percent of normal by using the speed control dial or foot pedal; do not press the needle-down button if your machine has one, as it overrides the speed setting.
Sew a test seam on a folded scrap of burlap, using the same thread and needle you plan to use for your project. The stitches should be even and the same length on both sides of the fabric. If the top thread is loose or the bobbin thread is showing, adjust the tension dial one notch at a time and test again. Burlap often needs slightly tighter top tension than cotton because the loose weave does not grip the thread as firmly.
Sewing Seams Without Skipping or Breaking Stitches
Place your two pieces of burlap right sides together and pin them along the seam line, using pins perpendicular to the line so you can remove them as you sew. Position the fabric under the presser foot and lower the foot. Take one stitch by hand (using the hand wheel) to anchor the thread, then begin sewing at a slow, steady pace.
Do not pull the fabric toward you or push it away. Let the feed dogs move the fabric through the machine. Pulling or pushing will cause the needle to deflect sideways, which skips stitches or bends the needle. If the fabric is not feeding smoothly, check that the presser foot pressure is set correctly for heavy fabric (usually a dial on the side or top of the machine). Increase the pressure slightly if the fabric is slipping.
Sew slowly and steadily, maintaining the same speed throughout the seam. Speeding up or slowing down mid-seam can cause tension problems or uneven stitches. When you reach the end of the seam, backstitch three or four stitches to lock the thread, then remove the fabric and trim the thread tails to about 1/4 inch.
Finishing Seams to Prevent Fraying
After you sew a seam, the raw edges of burlap will fray. You have three options: zigzag the edges, use pinking shears, or bind them with bias tape.
Zigzag finishing is the fastest method. Set your machine to a medium-width zigzag (about 3 millimeters wide) and sew along each raw edge, catching about 1/4 inch of fabric. The zigzag will seal the fibers and prevent further fraying. This method works well for seams that will be hidden inside a pillow or bag.
Pinking shears cut a zigzag pattern along the edge, which also slows fraying. This is a good choice if you want a finished look without extra sewing. Cut about 1/4 inch from the raw edge and the pinked line will be visible on the seam allowance.
Bias tape binding is the most durable finish and the most visible. Fold bias tape around the raw edge and stitch it down with a narrow zigzag or straight stitch. This method is worth the extra time if your project will get heavy use or frequent washing.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
Using a fine needle is the most common error. A size 10 or 12 needle will bend or break within a few stitches of burlap. Always check your needle size before you start, and replace it if you are not sure how old it is. Needles dull over time and a dull needle will skip stitches even if it is the right size.
Running the machine too fast is the second most common problem. Burlap is dense and the needle needs time to penetrate the weave cleanly. If you sew at normal speed, the needle will deflect and skip stitches. Slow down to 60 percent and you will see the difference when ready.
Pulling the fabric as it feeds is the third mistake. The feed dogs are designed to move burlap, and pulling overrides that mechanism. Keep your hands near the fabric but do not explore pressure. If the fabric is not feeding, the problem is usually presser foot pressure or needle tension, not the feed dogs.
Forgetting to finish seams leads to excessive fraying during washing or handling. Plan for a finishing method before you start sewing, and test it on your scrap to see how it looks and performs.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I sew burlap on a regular sewing machine?
Yes, but you must use a heavy-duty needle (size 16 or 18), heavy-duty thread, and slow your machine speed to about 60 percent of normal. A standard machine can handle burlap if you adjust these settings. If your machine has a speed control, use it; if not, straightforward press the foot pedal more gently than usual.
What stitch length should I use for burlap?
Use 3.0 to 3.5 millimeters, which is slightly longer than the 2.5 millimeters standard for cotton. Longer stitches are less likely to pucker the loose weave or break the fibers. Test on a scrap first to see how it looks with your specific burlap.
Why does my needle keep bending when I sew burlap?
You are likely using a needle that is too fine for the fabric, sewing too fast, or pulling the fabric as it feeds. Switch to a size 16 or 18 needle, reduce your machine speed to 60 percent, and let the feed dogs move the fabric without information. Test on a scrap to confirm the needle is not bending before you start your project.
Do I have to wash burlap before sewing?
You should wash it if your finished project will be washed, because burlap shrinks in warm water. If the project is decorative and will never be washed (like a wall hanging), you can skip this step. Use warm water, a gentle cycle, and lay it flat to dry.
What is the best way to finish burlap seams?
Zigzag stitching is the fastest and most common method. Sew a medium-width zigzag along each raw edge to seal the fibers. Pinking shears are a quicker alternative if you do not want extra sewing. Bias tape binding is the most durable option for projects that will get heavy use.