Burlap sews best with a heavy needle, thick thread, and a slower machine speed than you would use for cotton
Burlap is a coarse, loosely woven fabric made from jute or similar plant fibers. Its open weave and stiff texture mean standard sewing techniques will tear the fibers or skip stitches. You need a size 16 or 18 needle (also called a heavy-duty or denim needle), polyester or upholstery thread rated for thick fabrics, and a machine speed set to medium or low. Most home machines can handle burlap if you make these three changes. Industrial machines designed for canvas or upholstery will work faster, but are not necessary for small projects like placemats, tote bags, or wall hangings.
The fabric itself will fray at cut edges and shed loose fibers as you work. This is normal and does not mean the seam is failing. Burlap's strength comes from the weave itself, not from thread tension alone. A seam that looks rough on the surface is often as durable as a seam in cotton, provided the needle and thread are heavy enough to pass through without breaking.
Key Takeaways
- Use a size 16 or 18 needle and polyester or upholstery thread; standard needles will bend or break in burlap's dense weave.
- Set your machine to medium or low speed and use a longer stitch length (3.5 to 4 mm) to avoid skipped stitches and thread breakage.
- Burlap frays and sheds at cut edges; finish seams with a zigzag stitch or pinking shears to slow fraying and contain loose fibers.
- Stabilize thin or loose burlap with fusible interfacing on the back before cutting, especially for garments or items that will see heavy use.
- Pressing burlap with a hot iron can flatten the weave permanently; use a pressing cloth and low heat if you must press at all.
Choosing the Right Needle and Thread
A size 16 or 18 needle is the minimum for burlap. These needles have a larger eye and a stronger shaft than size 10 or 12 needles, which will bend or snap under the pressure of pushing through burlap's tight weave. If you are working with very heavy burlap or multiple layers, a size 18 or even a 20 is safer. Topstitching needles (also size 16 or 18) have an extra-large eye and work well if you are using thick decorative thread.
Thread choice matters as much as needle size. Polyester thread is stronger than cotton and resists breaking under the friction of burlap's rough surface. Upholstery thread, sold in spools at fabric stores, is thicker and more durable than standard sewing thread and is designed for coarse fabrics. If you are sewing burlap to burlap, upholstery thread in a matching color will blend better than a thin thread that sits on top of the weave. For decorative seams, you can use heavier thread in a contrasting color, but test it on a scrap first to make sure your machine can handle the thickness without jamming.
Machine Settings and Stitch Length
Set your machine speed to medium or low. Burlap does not need the fast, aggressive stitching that works for lightweight fabrics. A slower speed gives the needle time to penetrate the weave cleanly and reduces the risk of the thread breaking or the needle bending. If your machine has a dial or digital speed control, aim for 60 to 70 percent of maximum speed rather than the default 100 percent.
Increase your stitch length to 3.5 to 4 mm. Standard stitch length for cotton is 2.5 mm; burlap's loose weave can cause the needle to skip or the thread to catch on fibers if stitches are too close together. A longer stitch also reduces the number of times the needle has to push through the fabric, which means less wear on the needle and less chance of breakage. Test the stitch length on a scrap of burlap before starting your project. If you see skipped stitches, increase the length by another 0.5 mm and try again.
Finishing Seams to Control Fraying
Burlap frays more visibly than cotton because the fibers are coarser and the weave is looser. A raw seam will shed loose threads and look unfinished within weeks of use. The simplest finish is a zigzag stitch run along the raw edge of each seam allowance after you sew the seam. Use the same heavy needle and thread, set the zigzag width to 3 to 4 mm, and run the stitch so it catches both the fabric and the air beyond the edge. This locks the fibers in place and slows fraying significantly.
Pinking shears (scissors with a zigzag blade) are another option and require no machine work. Cut the raw edges of your seam allowances with pinking shears after sewing. The zigzag cut exposes fewer fiber ends than a straight cut and slows fraying. Pinking shears work best on seams that will not see heavy washing or wear; for items that will be handled often, a zigzag stitch is more durable.
If you want a fully enclosed seam, use a French seam: sew the pieces wrong sides together with a 1 cm seam allowance, trim to 0.5 cm, then fold the fabric so the right sides face each other and sew again 0.5 cm from the fold. This encloses the raw edges completely but requires more fabric and is slower to sew. Use it only for projects where the inside will be visible or handled frequently.
Stabilizing Burlap Before Cutting
Thin or loose burlap can shift and distort as you cut and sew. Fusible interfacing, ironed to the back of the fabric before cutting, adds body and prevents the weave from moving. Choose a medium-weight interfacing rated for canvas or upholstery. Lay the burlap wrong side up on your ironing board, place the interfacing (shiny side down) on top, and press with a hot iron for 10 to 15 seconds per section, moving slowly across the fabric. Let it cool before cutting.
Interfacing is especially useful for garments, bags, or wall hangings that need to hold their shape. It also makes the fabric easier to cut straight and reduces fraying during construction. If you are making a straightforward project like a table runner or a decorative panel that will be mounted or framed, interfacing is optional.
Pressing and Storage
Burlap's texture flattens under heat and pressure. If you must press seams, use a pressing cloth (a thin cotton cloth placed between the iron and the burlap) and low heat, and press only the seam itself, not the whole piece. High heat or direct iron contact will crush the weave and change the fabric's appearance permanently. Many sewers skip pressing burlap altogether and straightforward finger-press seams open as they sew, which is sufficient for most projects.
Store finished burlap items in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Burlap absorbs moisture and can mildew if stored damp. If you are storing burlap fabric before sewing, roll it loosely on a tube rather than folding it; creases in burlap are slow to release and can weaken the weave along the fold line.
Common Problems and How to Fix Them
Skipped stitches: The needle is too small or the stitch length is too short. Move up to a size 18 needle and increase stitch length to 4 mm. Also check that the needle is inserted correctly (the flat side faces the right direction for your machine) and that it is not bent.
Thread breaking: The needle is too small, the thread is too thick for the needle eye, or the machine speed is too fast. Switch to a size 18 needle, use polyester or upholstery thread, and slow the machine to 60 percent speed. If the thread still breaks, check that the presser foot is down (it controls tension) and that the thread is seated properly in the tension discs.
Needle bending or breaking: You are sewing through too many layers or the needle is hitting a pin. Burlap is thick; limit yourself to two layers at a time. Remove all pins before sewing and use a walking foot if your machine has one; it feeds thick fabrics more evenly than the standard presser foot.
Seams puckering: The thread tension is too tight. Loosen the top tension by one or two numbers and test on a scrap. Burlap's loose weave does not need tight tension to hold; a looser tension actually produces a smoother seam.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a regular needle and thread on burlap?
Not reliably. A size 10 or 12 needle will bend or break in burlap's dense weave, and standard cotton thread will fray or snap under the friction. You need a size 16 or 18 needle and polyester or upholstery thread. Testing on a scrap first will show you whether your current needle and thread can handle the fabric.
What is the best stitch for sewing burlap?
A straight stitch at 3.5 to 4 mm length works for most seams. A zigzag stitch is useful for finishing raw edges after sewing. Avoid decorative stitches unless you test them on a scrap first; the needle may skip or break if the stitch pattern is too dense for the fabric.
Do I have to use a walking foot?
A walking foot is helpful but not required. It feeds thick or slippery fabrics more evenly than a standard presser foot and reduces skipped stitches. If your machine has one and you are sewing multiple layers of burlap, use it. If not, sew slowly and hold the fabric gently to guide it through.
Can I wash burlap items I have sewn?
Yes, but gently. Hand wash in cool water with mild soap and lay flat to dry. Machine washing can cause the weave to shift and seams to pucker. If you must machine wash, use a delicate cycle and a mesh bag. Do not use hot water or a dryer; heat can shrink burlap and weaken the fibers.
Why does my burlap look different after I sew it?
Burlap's weave shifts slightly as you handle and sew it. This is normal and does not mean the seam is weak. If the appearance bothers you, you can stabilize the fabric with interfacing before cutting, which will hold the weave more firmly in place during sewing.