What You Need to Make a Burp Cloth
A burp cloth is a rectangle of absorbent fabric, usually 10 to 12 inches wide and 18 to 20 inches long, with a waterproof backing sewn to one side. You can make one in two to three hours with a sewing machine, a needle, thread, and fabric you probably have at home already.
Start with two pieces of fabric: one absorbent layer and one waterproof layer. Absorbent fabric is usually cotton flannel, terry cloth, or cotton knit—the kind that soaks up liquid. Waterproof fabric is usually minky, fleece with a waterproof coating, or oilcloth. You can find both at a fabric store, or use old receiving blankets, towels, or flannel sheets for the absorbent side and old shower curtain material or laminated cotton for the waterproof side.
You will also need thread that matches or coordinates with your fabric, scissors or a rotary cutter, a ruler or measuring tape, pins, and a sewing machine with a needle suitable for the weight of fabric you chose. If you are using thick materials like terry cloth or minky, use a size 14 or 16 needle instead of a standard size 10.
Key Takeaways
- Cut two rectangles of fabric roughly 10 by 20 inches—one absorbent and one waterproof—and pin them with right sides facing each other.
- Sew three sides with a straight stitch at ¼ inch from the edge, leaving one short end open for turning.
- Trim the corners at a diagonal before turning the cloth right-side out so the corners lie flat.
- Press the cloth flat with an iron, fold the open edges inward, and sew the opening closed with a topstitch or whip stitch.
- Add a snap or loop to one corner so the cloth can attach to a shoulder or diaper bag.
Cut Your Fabric to Size
Lay both pieces of fabric flat on a clean surface with the wrong sides facing up. Use a ruler and fabric pencil or chalk to mark a rectangle 10 inches wide and 20 inches long on each piece. A burp cloth does not need to be exact—anywhere from 9 to 12 inches wide and 18 to 22 inches long works fine. The width should be wide enough to drape over a shoulder without slipping, and the length should reach from shoulder to mid-chest.
Cut along your marked lines with scissors or a rotary cutter. If you are using a rotary cutter, place a self-healing cutting mat underneath to protect your work surface. Trim both pieces to the same size so the edges line up when you sew them together.
Pin and Sew Three Sides
Place the two fabric pieces on top of each other with the right sides facing each other—this means the pretty or finished side of each fabric is touching, and the back sides are facing out. This is the standard way to sew two pieces together so the seams end up hidden on the inside. Pin around all four sides, placing pins about 2 inches apart and perpendicular to the edge.
Thread your sewing machine and set it to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.5 to 3.0 millimeters. Starting at one corner, sew along one long side, one short side, and the other long side, leaving the fourth short side completely open. Sew ¼ inch from the edge—this is called the seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam to lock the thread in place. Remove pins as you approach them.
When you reach a corner, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot, pivot the fabric 90 degrees, lower the presser foot, and continue sewing. This creates a sharp corner instead of a rounded one.
Trim Corners and Turn the Cloth Right-Side Out
Before you turn the cloth inside-out, trim the fabric at each corner. Cut diagonally across the corner about ¼ inch from the stitching line, being careful not to cut through the thread itself. This removes the bulk of fabric at the corner so it will lie flat and pointed instead of lumpy when you turn the cloth right-side out.
Reach into the open side and grab the fabric from the inside. Gently pull the cloth through the opening, turning it so the right sides of the fabric are now facing out. Use a point turner or the blunt end of a chopstick to push out the corners from the inside so they are sharp and square. Press the entire cloth flat with an iron on medium heat, paying special attention to the seams and corners.
Close the Opening and Add a Topstitch
Fold the raw edges of the open side inward by ¼ inch and press them flat with the iron. Pin the opening closed. You can now sew the opening shut in two ways: a topstitch, which is a visible line of stitching ¼ inch from the edge all the way around the cloth, or a whip stitch, which is a nearly invisible hand stitch that closes just the opening.
For a topstitch, thread your machine with matching thread and sew ¼ inch from the edge all the way around the cloth, starting and ending at the opening. This creates a frame of stitching and closes the opening at the same time. For a whip stitch, thread a needle by hand, knot the end, and use small stitches to close just the opening from the inside, then knot and trim the thread.
A topstitch is faster and more durable for a burp cloth that will be washed many times. A whip stitch is less visible if you want the cloth to look more polished.
Add a Snap or Loop for Attachment
Most burp cloths have a way to stay in place on a shoulder or attach to a diaper bag. The easiest option is a snap—a two-part fastener that clicks together. Sew one half of the snap to one corner of the cloth on the waterproof side, and the other half to the opposite corner. This lets you fold the cloth in half and snap it closed, or snap it to a bag strap.
To attach a snap, position it at the corner and use a needle and thread to sew through the holes in the snap, going through the fabric underneath. Make four or five passes through each hole to find it firmly. Alternatively, you can sew a small loop of ribbon or fabric tape to one corner and a button to the opposite corner, then button the cloth closed.
If you do not want any hardware, you can skip this step entirely. The cloth will still work—it just will not stay fastened to a bag or shoulder on its own.
Washing and Care
Wash your finished burp cloth in warm water with mild detergent. The waterproof backing will hold up to regular washing, but avoid bleach and very hot water, which can degrade the waterproof coating over time. Tumble dry on low heat or hang dry to extend the life of the waterproof layer. If the waterproof side starts to crack or peel after many washes, the cloth is still absorbent and can be used as a regular cloth, or you can remove the old backing and sew a new one on.
Most burp cloths last through multiple children or can be given to friends. The seams are the most likely place to wear out first—if a seam splits, you can restitch it by hand or machine rather than discarding the whole cloth.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I make a burp cloth without a sewing machine?
Yes, but it takes longer. You can sew the entire cloth by hand using a running stitch or backstitch, which will take 45 minutes to an hour. Use a needle suited to your fabric weight and thread it with a length about as long as your arm. Knot one end, push the needle through both layers of fabric, and make small, even stitches ¼ inch apart. The seams will be just as strong as machine stitches if you keep them tight and even.
What if I do not have waterproof fabric?
You can use two layers of absorbent fabric instead—flannel, terry cloth, or cotton knit. The cloth will absorb liquid on both sides instead of protecting the wearer's clothing. This works fine for a cloth that stays on a shoulder, but it will not protect a shirt from spit-up or drool. Alternatively, you can sew a plastic shower curtain or oilcloth to the back after the cloth is finished, using a whip stitch by hand.
How many burp cloths should I make?
Most families find three to five burp cloths useful so there is always one clean and ready. If you are making them as gifts, one or two per baby is typical. They are small enough that making a batch of five takes only a few hours once you have cut the fabric.
What stitch length should I use?
A stitch length of 2.5 to 3.0 millimeters is standard for burp cloths and most home sewing projects. This creates a seam that is strong but not so tight that it puckers the fabric. If your machine uses numbers instead of millimeters, 2.5 to 3.0 usually corresponds to a setting of 10 to 12 on the dial.
Can I add padding or quilting to make the cloth thicker?
Yes. You can sandwich a layer of batting (thin quilting material) between the absorbent and waterproof layers before you sew the three sides. This makes the cloth thicker and more cushioned. Baste the batting to one of the fabric pieces with a few hand stitches before you pin and sew the layers together, so it does not shift while you work.