The two ways to sew a buttonhole
A buttonhole is a slit in fabric with reinforced edges that keeps a button from tearing through. You can make one by hand using a needle and thread, or by machine if your sewing machine has a buttonhole setting. Hand-sewn buttonholes take 10 to 20 minutes each and give you full control over size and placement. Machine buttonholes take 2 to 3 minutes and are more uniform, but require a machine with a buttonhole foot and stitch.
The hand method works on any fabric and any machine. The machine method is faster and neater on most garments, but fails on very thick or stretchy fabrics where the presser foot cannot grip evenly. Start with hand sewing if you are new to sewing — it teaches you how the stitch actually works, and you can do it on any machine later.
Key Takeaways
- A buttonhole needs a slit cut through the fabric, then edges reinforced with thread so they do not fray.
- Hand buttonholes use a needle, thread, and a stitch called the blanket stitch, which takes 10 to 20 minutes per hole.
- Machine buttonholes require a buttonhole foot and a machine with a dedicated buttonhole stitch or automatic buttonhole setting.
- Mark your buttonhole placement with a pencil or tailor's chalk before you cut, and cut only after the stitching is done.
- The buttonhole should be just wide enough for your button to pass through without forcing, usually 1/8 inch wider than the button diameter.
How to mark and measure a buttonhole
Measure the diameter of your button by laying it flat on a ruler. Add 1/8 inch to that measurement — that is the length your buttonhole slit should be. Mark the buttonhole placement on your garment using a pencil, tailor's chalk, or a water-soluble fabric pen. Make a small horizontal line where the buttonhole will go, centered on the button band or placket.
If you are sewing multiple buttons, space them evenly. Measure from the edge of the garment to the center of the first buttonhole, then use that same distance between each buttonhole center. This keeps the buttons aligned and the garment looking balanced. Write the measurement down so you do not have to recalculate it for each button.
Hand-sewn buttonholes using the blanket stitch
Thread a needle with thread that matches your fabric or contrasts intentionally. Knot the end. Bring the needle up through the fabric just to the left of your marked line, then down through the fabric just to the right of the line, about 1/8 inch away. This creates a small stitch that anchors your thread. Repeat this stitch along the entire length of the marked buttonhole, spacing each stitch about 1/16 inch apart.
Once you have stitched along the line, cut the slit open using small, sharp scissors. Cut only between the stitches, not through them. Now you will reinforce the cut edges with the blanket stitch. Bring your needle up through the fabric just below the slit, then loop the thread under the needle tip before pulling it tight. This creates a loop that sits on the edge of the fabric. Move along the slit edge, making blanket stitches every 1/16 inch, working around both the top and bottom edges of the slit. When you reach the end, make a few small stitches in place to find the thread, then knot and trim.
The blanket stitch looks like a series of small loops along the edge. It prevents fraying and gives the buttonhole a finished appearance. The tighter and more evenly spaced your stitches, the stronger and neater the buttonhole will be.
Machine buttonholes with an automatic setting
Check your machine manual to see if it has a buttonhole stitch or automatic buttonhole mode. Most modern machines do. Attach the buttonhole foot to your machine — this foot has a groove on the bottom that guides the needle and holds the fabric steady. Insert your button into the button holder on the foot if your machine has one, or manually set the buttonhole length to match your measurement.
Place your fabric under the foot with the marked buttonhole line aligned with the foot's guide. Lower the presser foot and the needle. Press the buttonhole button or lever on your machine. The machine will stitch around the buttonhole automatically, usually making four passes: two down each side and one across each end. When the machine stops, raise the presser foot and remove the fabric.
Use a seam ripper or small scissors to cut the slit open. Insert the tip carefully between the two rows of stitching and cut straight through the center, stopping just before the stitches at each end. Do not cut through the stitches themselves — they hold the buttonhole together.
Machine buttonholes with a manual stitch
If your machine does not have an automatic buttonhole setting, you can make one using the zigzag stitch. Attach a regular presser foot or a zigzag foot. Set the stitch width to about 2.5 and the stitch length to 0.5. This creates a tight, dense stitch that reinforces the buttonhole edges.
Stitch along one side of your marked buttonhole line, keeping the needle about 1/16 inch from the line. When you reach the end, pivot the fabric 90 degrees and stitch across the bottom of the buttonhole. Pivot again and stitch up the other side, then stitch across the top. This creates a rectangle of zigzag stitching around the buttonhole. Cut the slit open using a seam ripper, being careful not to cut the stitches.
Reinforcing buttonholes on thin or stretchy fabric
Thin fabrics like cotton voile or linen can tear around the buttonhole if it is not reinforced underneath. Before you mark or stitch, cut a small rectangle of interfacing and fuse it to the wrong side of the fabric where the buttonhole will be. Use a pressing cloth to protect your iron. The interfacing adds body and prevents the fabric from stretching or tearing when the button is buttoned and unbuttoned.
Stretchy fabrics like knit or jersey need extra support too. Use a stabilizer — a temporary backing that you tear away after stitching. Pin or baste a small piece of tear-away stabilizer to the wrong side of the fabric, then stitch your buttonhole through both the fabric and the stabilizer. After stitching, carefully tear away the stabilizer. This keeps the buttonhole from stretching out of shape.
Fixing a buttonhole that is too small or too large
If you cut the slit too small, the button will not pass through without force. You can carefully enlarge it by cutting a tiny bit more from the center, but be cautious — once you cut, you cannot undo it. If the slit is only slightly too small, try using a button one size smaller instead.
If the slit is too large, the button will slip through too easily and the garment will not close properly. You cannot shrink the slit, but you can sew the buttonhole closed and start over in a slightly different location. Use a ladder stitch or whip stitch to close the hole invisibly, then mark and sew a new buttonhole in the correct size.
Frequently Asked Questions
What thread should I use for a buttonhole?
Use thread that matches your fabric color for an invisible look, or contrasting thread if you want the buttonhole to stand out as a design detail. Buttonhole thread is thicker than regular sewing thread and resists fraying, but regular thread works fine if that is what you have. Use the same thread on top and in the bobbin.
Can I sew a buttonhole on a button-up shirt that is already finished?
Yes, but it is much harder because you cannot access the wrong side of the fabric easily. You will have to work from the front only, which means you cannot reinforce the back of the buttonhole with interfacing. Hand-sewing is your best option here — use the blanket stitch and work slowly to keep your stitches even and tight.
How do I know if my machine has a buttonhole stitch?
Check your machine manual or look at the stitch selection dial or screen. Buttonhole stitches are usually marked with a symbol that looks like a rectangle with a slit down the middle. If you do not see one, your machine may have an automatic buttonhole mode accessed through a button or menu. If neither exists, use the zigzag stitch method instead.
What happens if I cut the buttonhole in the wrong place?
If the buttonhole is in the wrong spot but the stitching is already done, you can close it with a ladder stitch and sew a new one nearby. If you cut it before stitching, you have cut a hole in your fabric that cannot be repaired invisibly — you will need to patch it or start over with a new piece of fabric.
Do I need a special foot to sew buttonholes?
A buttonhole foot makes machine buttonholes easier and more consistent, but it is not required. You can sew a buttonhole using a regular presser foot and the zigzag stitch. A buttonhole foot straightforward holds the fabric more securely and may have a guide or button holder to set the length automatically.