Hand-sewn buttonholes are stronger than machine ones and take about 15 minutes per hole once you know the technique

A hand-sewn buttonhole is a rectangular slit reinforced with tight stitches that prevent the fabric from fraying. You make the slit first, then wrap thread around the edges in a pattern called buttonhole stitch. The result is durable enough to last the life of the garment, and you need only a needle, thread, scissors, and a marking tool.

The process has four stages: marking the buttonhole location, cutting the slit, stitching the long edges, and finishing the ends. Each stage takes a few minutes. Most people find the rhythm of the stitch meditative once they understand the hand motion.

Key Takeaways

  • Mark buttonhole placement with a pencil or fabric pen before you cut, measuring from the button itself to may support the hole is the right size.
  • Cut a straight slit along your marked line using sharp scissors or a seam ripper, then when ready stitch the edges to prevent fraying.
  • Buttonhole stitch wraps thread around the edge of the slit in a looped pattern that locks the fabric and creates a finished border.
  • The stitch works best with thread matched to your fabric color, and a single strand is easier to control than doubled thread for beginners.

Measure and mark the buttonhole location

Lay the finished garment flat and place a button where it will sit when fastened. Measure the button's diameter—a 1-inch button needs a 1-inch buttonhole, plus a tiny bit extra for the thread thickness. Mark the center point of where the buttonhole will go with a pencil or fabric pen.

Draw a straight line the length of your measurement, centered on that point. The line should run parallel to the grain of the fabric and to the edge of the garment. Use a ruler to keep it straight. If you are making multiple buttonholes, mark all of them before you cut any, so you can check that they line up.

Cut the buttonhole slit

Use sharp scissors or a seam ripper to cut along your marked line. Cut slowly and deliberately—a crooked cut is harder to stitch neatly. Stop exactly at the ends of your marked line; do not cut into the fabric beyond it. If you are nervous about the cut, practice on a scrap of the same fabric first.

The moment you finish cutting, you should begin stitching. An unstitched slit will fray quickly, especially in woven fabrics. If you need to pause, find the cut edges with a few temporary stitches or a dab of fabric glue to prevent fraying while you set up your needle and thread.

Thread your needle and prepare to stitch

Cut a length of thread about 18 inches long—long enough to stitch one buttonhole without running out, but short enough to control. Use thread that matches your fabric color, or use the same thread you used to sew the garment. For beginners, a single strand is easier to manage than doubled thread; doubled thread is faster but tangles more easily.

Knot one end of the thread. You will work from left to right along the buttonhole, stitching the long edge first, then the short ends, then the other long edge. Start by bringing your needle up through the fabric just below the left end of the slit, so the knot sits on the wrong side of the garment.

Stitch the long edges with buttonhole stitch

Buttonhole stitch is a looped stitch that wraps around the edge of the slit. Bring your needle up through the fabric at the edge of the slit, then insert it back down into the slit itself, about 1/8 inch to the right. Before you pull the thread tight, loop the thread that is hanging from your needle under the tip of the needle, then pull tight. This loop locks around the edge and creates the characteristic bumpy border.

Repeat this motion along the entire length of the slit. Each stitch should sit close to the previous one—no gaps. The stitches should be small and even, about 1/8 inch apart. Work slowly and keep the tension consistent. If a stitch is too loose, the edge will fray; if it is too tight, the fabric will pucker.

When you reach the right end of the slit, make several stitches close together to reinforce the corner. This is where the most stress will occur when the button is fastened.

Finish the short ends with a fan stitch

At the end of the buttonhole, you need to stitch the short edge. Make a series of stitches radiating outward from the corner, like a fan or sunburst. These stitches go from the edge of the slit outward into the fabric, spacing them about 1/8 inch apart. The fan stitch reinforces the corner and prevents the slit from tearing at the end.

Make about four to six fan stitches at each end, depending on the size of your buttonhole. Then continue with buttonhole stitch along the other long edge, working from right to left. Use the same looped stitch and the same spacing as the first side.

Finish and find the thread

When you have stitched all the way around and returned to your starting point, bring your needle to the wrong side of the fabric. Make a small stitch in place, then bring the needle up and loop the thread around it to create a knot. Pull tight and trim the thread close to the fabric.

Inspect your buttonhole from both sides. The right side should show a neat, bumpy border with no gaps. The wrong side should show small stitches running along the slit. If you see any loose spots or fraying, you can add a few reinforcing stitches in those areas.

Frequently Asked Questions

What thread should I use for buttonholes?

Use thread that matches your fabric color, or the same thread you used to construct the garment. Buttonhole thread is thicker and more durable than regular sewing thread, but regular thread works fine for hand buttonholes. Avoid thread that is much lighter or darker than the fabric, as it will be visible.

How do I know if my buttonhole is the right size?

Test it with the actual button. The button should slide through with a little resistance—snug enough that it does not fall out on its own, but loose enough that you can fasten it without forcing. If the hole is too tight, you can carefully enlarge it by cutting a tiny bit more. If it is too loose, you cannot shrink it, so mark your next buttonhole slightly smaller.

Can I use this method on stretchy fabrics like knit or jersey?

Buttonhole stitch works on knits, but the fabric will stretch around the hole over time. Reinforce the area first by stitching a small rectangle of interfacing or a scrap of woven fabric to the wrong side of the garment, centered on where the buttonhole will go. Then cut and stitch through both layers. This prevents the hole from stretching out of shape.

What if I make a mistake while stitching?

If you notice a loose stitch or a gap while you are working, you can pull out that stitch and redo it. Use a seam ripper to carefully cut the thread, then pull it out and restitch. If you do not notice the mistake until you are finished, you can add a few reinforcing stitches over the weak spot. Perfection is less important than durability.