Machine buttonholes are faster and more even than hand-sewn ones
A machine buttonhole is a reinforced slit in fabric with thread wrapped around the edges to prevent fraying. Your sewing machine does this in one or two passes, depending on the model. Most modern machines have a buttonhole foot and a dedicated stitch that automatically moves the needle side to side and forward, creating a neat rectangular hole with finished edges on both long sides.
The process takes about 30 seconds per buttonhole once you understand your machine's specific buttonhole foot and settings. The hardest part is usually marking the hole in the right place and getting the fabric positioned correctly under the foot. After that, you press a lever or button and let the machine do the work.
Key Takeaways
- Mark buttonhole placement with a fabric pencil or tailor's chalk, measuring from the button's center and accounting for the button's thickness plus 1/8 inch.
- Your machine's buttonhole foot has a small bar or slot where you insert the button to set the hole size automatically, or you manually set the length on the machine dial.
- Stabilize the fabric under the foot with tear-away stabilizer on the underside to prevent puckering and keep stitches even.
- Test the buttonhole on a scrap of the same fabric and interfacing before sewing on your garment.
- Cut the buttonhole open with a seam ripper or buttonhole cutter after sewing, being careful not to cut the thread.
Measure and mark buttonhole placement
Buttonholes should be centered on the button's width and positioned so the button sits in the middle of the hole when fastened. Measure from the center of where you want the button to sit, then mark a line that is as long as your button's diameter plus 1/8 inch. For example, a 3/4-inch button gets a 7/8-inch buttonhole.
Use a fabric pencil, tailor's chalk, or a water-soluble pen to mark a horizontal line on the right side of the fabric. Mark the starting point (where the needle will enter) and the ending point clearly. If you are making multiple buttonholes in a vertical line, measure the distance between them carefully—usually 1 to 1.5 inches apart depending on the garment style.
Double-check your marks before you sit down at the machine. Mistakes in placement are harder to fix than mistakes in the stitch itself.
Attach the buttonhole foot and set the stitch
Remove your regular presser foot and snap the buttonhole foot into place. This foot looks different from a standard foot—it usually has a small bar, slot, or groove on the back or underside. Consult your machine's manual to find the exact attachment point and buttonhole stitch number.
If your machine has an automatic buttonhole feature, insert the button into the slot on the foot. The machine will measure the button and set the hole length automatically. If your machine requires manual length adjustment, turn the dial to match your marked line length. Set the stitch width to the widest setting (usually 5 or 6) so the thread wraps thickly around the edges of the hole.
Thread the machine with thread that matches your fabric or blends in. Wind a bobbin with the same thread. Some machines work better with a slightly thicker thread on top for more visible, durable edges.
Stabilize the fabric and test on a scrap
Tear-away stabilizer prevents the fabric from puckering under the dense stitching of a buttonhole. Cut a piece slightly larger than your marked buttonhole and pin or baste it to the wrong side of the fabric, directly behind where the hole will be. This is especially important on knits, lightweight fabrics, and anything without interfacing.
Before sewing on your garment, test the buttonhole on a scrap of the same fabric with the same interfacing or stabilizer. Sew one complete buttonhole and examine it. The stitches should form a solid line on both long sides with no gaps, and the hole should be the correct length. If the stitches are too loose or too tight, adjust the stitch width or tension on your test piece until you are satisfied.
This test takes five minutes and saves you from ruining a finished garment. Keep the test buttonhole as a reference for the rest of your project.
Position the fabric and sew the buttonhole
Lower the presser foot so the needle is at the starting point of your marked line. The foot should be positioned so the needle enters the fabric at the left edge of where you want the hole to be. Lower the presser foot lever to engage the foot.
On most machines, you press a button or lever to start the automatic buttonhole cycle. The machine will sew down one side of the hole, pivot at the bottom, sew across the bottom, pivot again, and sew back up the other side. The entire cycle takes about 30 seconds. Do not pull the fabric or try to guide it—let the machine move the fabric automatically.
When the cycle finishes, the machine will stop and the needle will be at the starting point. Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric. Trim the thread tails close to the fabric.
Cut open the buttonhole carefully
A seam ripper or buttonhole cutter is the safest tool for opening the hole. A seam ripper has a small curved blade; a buttonhole cutter is a small metal tool that looks like a tiny guillotine. Both cost under $5 and are worth having.
Place the fabric on a firm surface with the buttonhole facing up. If using a seam ripper, slide the blade into the center of the hole and carefully cut toward one end, then flip and cut toward the other end. If using a buttonhole cutter, position it over the center of the hole and press down firmly. The cutter will slice through the fabric in one motion.
Cut slowly and stop just short of the thread on both ends. You want to remove the fabric between the stitches without cutting the thread itself. If you accidentally cut a thread, the buttonhole will unravel. Once the hole is open, remove the tear-away stabilizer from the back by gently tearing it away.
Troubleshoot common problems
If the stitches are loose or gappy, the thread tension is too loose or the stitch width is too narrow. Tighten the top thread tension slightly (turn the dial to a higher number) or increase the stitch width. Test on another scrap before trying again on your garment.
If the fabric puckers around the buttonhole, you did not use enough stabilizer or the stabilizer was too thin. Use a heavier tear-away stabilizer next time, or layer two pieces. Puckering can also happen if you pulled the fabric while sewing—let the machine feed the fabric automatically.
If the hole is crooked or uneven, the fabric was not positioned straight under the foot at the start. Mark your starting point more clearly next time and double-check alignment before lowering the foot. Some machines have a guide line on the foot itself to help with alignment.
If the machine skips stitches, the needle may be bent or inserted backward. Replace the needle with a fresh one, making sure it is inserted all the way in and facing the correct direction for your machine.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I sew buttonholes on a basic machine without an automatic buttonhole stitch?
Yes, but it requires more manual work. You will need to manually move the fabric side to side while sewing forward to create the zigzag pattern on both sides of the hole. This is much slower and less even than an automatic buttonhole. If you plan to sew buttonholes regularly, a machine with an automatic buttonhole feature is worth the investment.
What thread should I use for buttonholes?
Use the same thread as the rest of your garment, or a slightly heavier buttonhole thread if your fabric is thick. Avoid very thin or delicate threads—they break easily when the button is fastened and unfastened repeatedly. Test your thread choice on a scrap first.
How do I know which buttonhole foot my machine uses?
Check your machine's manual or the packaging that came with your machine. Most machines come with one or two buttonhole feet in the accessory box. If you have lost yours, you can order a replacement from the machine manufacturer by model number, or buy a universal buttonhole foot that fits many machines.
Do I need to use stabilizer on heavy fabrics like denim or wool?
Heavy fabrics are less likely to pucker, but stabilizer still helps keep stitches even and prevents the fabric from shifting. Use a lighter stabilizer on heavy fabrics, or skip it if the fabric has interfacing already. Test on a scrap to see if you need it.
What if I sew the buttonhole in the wrong place?
If the hole is in the wrong spot, you can cover it with a patch on the wrong side or sew a decorative button over it on the right side. If the hole is only slightly off, you may be able to reposition the button to hide the mistake. Prevent this by measuring twice and marking clearly before you sew.