A cape with hood is a rectangle of fabric sewn to a neckband, with a separate hood piece attached at the top

The simplest cape-with-hood design uses two main pieces: a rectangular body panel and a hood made from two curved pieces. The hood attaches to a neckband (a strip of fabric that sits around your neck), and the neckband connects to the top of the cape body. You sew the hood seams first, attach it to the neckband, then sew the neckband to the cape. The whole project takes an afternoon if you use a basic pattern and a sewing machine.

The key difference from a regular cape is that the hood sits on top of the neckline rather than being part of it. This means you need to plan the neckband width and the hood curve so they meet cleanly. Most home sewers use a pattern for this reason—guessing the hood shape usually results in a gap or bunching at the neck.

Key Takeaways

  • A cape-with-hood pattern gives you the exact measurements for the body rectangle, hood pieces, and neckband so the pieces fit together without gaps.
  • Sew the two hood pieces together first, then attach the hood to the neckband, then attach the neckband to the cape body.
  • Use a walking foot or ballpoint needles if your fabric is stretchy, and test your thread tension on a scrap before sewing the final seams.
  • The hood opening (the face hole) should be large enough to slip over your head comfortably; most patterns size this for the intended wearer's head measurement.

Choosing a pattern and fabric

Start with a commercial pattern rather than drafting your own. Patterns like those from McCall's, Simplicity, or Butterick include cape-with-hood designs in multiple sizes, and the instructions walk you through the order of assembly. Look for patterns labeled "cape" or "hooded cape" and check the finished measurements against the wearer's chest and head size.

Fabric choice matters for how the cape hangs and how straightforward it is to sew. Cotton, linen, fleece, and lightweight wool all work well. Avoid very stretchy knits unless the pattern specifically says it is designed for them—stretchy fabric can distort the hood shape and neckline. If you are sewing for a child, fleece is forgiving and warm; for an adult, cotton or linen gives a cleaner drape. Buy the yardage listed on the pattern envelope, plus an extra half yard for mistakes.

Cutting and preparing the pieces

Lay out your pattern pieces on the fabric according to the pattern guide sheet. Most patterns show you how to arrange the pieces to save fabric. Pin the pattern to the fabric, then cut carefully along the lines using sharp scissors or a rotary cutter. Mark any notches (small cuts that show where pieces align) and transfer any dots or lines marked on the pattern to your fabric using a fabric pen or tailor's chalk.

You will have three main pieces: two hood pieces (usually identical), one neckband strip, and one or two cape body pieces (depending on whether the pattern calls for a center seam). Before you sew, lay all the pieces out on a table and check that the hood pieces are the same size and that the neckband is long enough to wrap around the hood opening with a small overlap for seaming.

Sewing the hood pieces together

Place the two hood pieces with right sides together (the pretty sides facing each other). Pin along the curved seam that forms the back of the hood, leaving the bottom (the face opening) unsewn. Sew this seam using a straight stitch with a 5/8-inch seam allowance, which is standard for most patterns. Backstitch at the beginning and end to lock the thread.

After sewing, trim the seam allowance to 1/4 inch and clip small notches into the curved seam every inch or so—this lets the seam lie flat when you turn the hood right-side out. Turn the hood right-side out through the face opening and press the seam flat with an iron. The hood should now look like a rounded cap with an open bottom edge.

Attaching the hood to the neckband

The neckband is a strip of fabric that forms a ring around the neck opening. Fold it in half lengthwise with right sides together, then sew the short ends together to form a loop. Press the seam open. Now you have a tube of fabric.

Pin the hood to the neckband with right sides together, matching the center back seam of the hood to a marked point on the neckband. The hood opening should fit snugly around the neckband—if it is too loose, the hood will sag; if too tight, it will bunch. Sew this seam with a 5/8-inch allowance, then trim and clip the seam as you did with the hood. Press the seam toward the neckband.

Attaching the neckband to the cape body

The cape body is usually a rectangle or a trapezoid (wider at the bottom). The top edge of the cape body is where the neckband attaches. Pin the neckband to the cape body with right sides together, matching the center back of the neckband to the center back of the cape. The neckband should fit around the top of the cape with a small overlap at the center front for a closure (usually buttons or ties).

Sew this seam with a 5/8-inch allowance. Trim the seam to 1/4 inch and press it toward the neckband. If your pattern calls for it, fold the neckband to the inside of the cape and topstitch (sew a visible line of stitching on the outside) 1/4 inch from the seam to hold it in place and give a finished look.

Finishing the cape edges and adding closures

The bottom and side edges of the cape need to be finished so they do not fray. The simplest method is a narrow hem: fold the edge 1/2 inch to the wrong side (the back), press, fold again 1/2 inch, and sew close to the fold. For a faster finish, use pinking shears to cut the raw edges with a zigzag pattern, which slows fraying without adding bulk.

Most capes with hoods close at the front with buttons, snaps, or ties. If your pattern includes a closure, mark the placement and sew buttons or attach snaps according to the pattern instructions. Ties can be made from bias tape or strips of the same fabric. Sew them to the inside of the neckband at the center front so they tie under the chin.

Frequently Asked Questions

What size should the hood opening be?

The hood opening should be large enough to slip over the wearer's head without stretching the fabric. Most patterns size this based on head measurement—typically 20 to 22 inches for an adult and 16 to 18 inches for a child. If you are adjusting a pattern, measure around the widest part of the head and add 2 inches for comfort.

Can I use a stretchy fabric like fleece or jersey?

Fleece works well because it does not fray and has some give without being too stretchy. Jersey and other knits can work if your pattern is designed for them, but they may distort the hood shape. If you use a stretchy fabric, use a ballpoint needle and a walking foot on your machine to prevent puckering.

What if the hood opening is too big or too small after I sew it?

If it is too big, you can take in the neckband seam by 1/4 inch and resew. If it is too small, you may need to unpick the seam and add a strip of fabric to the neckband to make it longer. This is why testing the fit before sewing the final seams is helpful—pin the pieces together and try it on first.

Do I need a serger or special machine to sew a cape?

No. A basic sewing machine with a straight stitch is all you need. A serger can finish the seams more neatly, but it is not required. If you do not have a serger, trim your seams and use pinking shears or a zigzag stitch on your regular machine to prevent fraying.

How do I add a lining to the cape?

Cut lining pieces the same size as your cape and hood pieces. Sew the lining hood and cape separately, then place the lining inside the outer cape with wrong sides together. Sew around the neckband opening to attach the lining, or hand-stitch it to the inside seam for an invisible finish. This adds warmth and hides the seams.